Briggsy

had a similar problem on a mates disco when we did an engine swap, after much head scratching we decided to re-time the thing up, did that and it was perfect. The timing has to be STOP ON to run correctly but i don't see how the timing would alter if just stood, unless something is amiss with the tensioner, other wise glow plugs would be the 1st thing id check.

Ok this is something i will check, do you have any idea how to unblock said hole? and just where abouts is it?

Ok, I recently posted a topic on bleeding the ABS on a classic and where i couldn't get any pressure at the pedal at all, after many hours of bleeding and a few liters of brake fluid later i finaly have pressure at the pedal and i had good brakes for about 2 miles. Now the problem is the brakes for some reason after a couple of miles or less will lock on to the point where the car wont even move anymore. I get about 5 applications of the brakes before the pump kicks in but pressure seems to be building up too much. opening the bleed screw on a caliper (doesnt matter which one) will temporarily release the brakes but same thing keeps happening and pedal goes rock solid, disconnect pump and after a few applications of the pedal and pressure is gone its almost impossible to stop the car. One exstream to the other! Any ideas at all?

Wow! have to say guys im realy impressed with the response to this topic. Please keep you thorts on the subject coming, im open to all sugestions and ideas. GT6Steve, i would give a right arm to have the same problem you've experienced, i could deal with some flashing lights but unfortunatly i have to brakes at all. My ABS light goes out as it should so theres clearly no electrical faults with the ABS booster unit, well i dont think anyway.

Yes! this is the procedure iv been trying to follow, did it yesterday with success but still didn't have the pedal pressure, im wondering how "gospel" the procedure is. I think remove all fluid and start again. more time, more tears.

I dont doubt you, im just thinking of how im going to tell the insurance company how the accident happened. Yes Mr insurance claim assessor i DID drive the 2 tonne car in hope that the brakes would eventually work haha. Its probably going to be one of those things that just suddenly "happens" for no apparent reason.

hmmm yeah iv known this to happen too and am hoping its not the case. short of changing all the parts i removed with some brand new second hand ones from somewhere im getting a little stumpt. i may remove all pipes from the abs and just screw bolts into the holes, fill with fluid and see if i get any pressure then. thats got to test the seals i reckon.

Yes i agree, driving doesn't seem a good idea (chassis being about child head hight), the only way the brakes would "know" the car is moving is via wheel sensors otherwise sitting at idle will do. i have checked for leaks, nothing visible, well certainly no fluid coming out but possible that air is getting in i suppose. i have replaced 3 corroded pipes so i will check these and maybe even flare the ends again just in case. otherwise im thinking just leave the pump running until a nice stream of bubble less fluid emerges. my other thort is that maybe by pumping the brake pedal the seal has burst in the abs master, but i don't think that would explain the continuous running of the pump. Surely the pump would still pressurize the system internally but when the pedal is pressed it would just seep around the seal?

So by the sounds of things its just a pain in the backside. Iv been trying to sort this for about a week now and it is edging closer and closer to the scrap yard. Does anyone know if when i bleed the abs circuit i need to have the pump running AND pump the brake peddle at the same time? was trying this today but after about 20 mins the battery just went flat. i dont seem to have any probs bleeding the other circuit with just the ezibleed kit. Incidently, when i bleed the accumulator the pump makes a much smoother noise, as soon as i shut the bleed screw off it starts to sound rough.? Currently trying to find a place local that stocks the range rover haynes manual. halfords seem to have disco but no range rover. typical!

Hi, thanks for the reply, So you reckon its all down to strict procedure more than anything else? have to say im reluctant to drive it anywhere as there is no pressure on the peddle what so ever, just goes straight to the floor so not sure if i trust driving it. I will try again tomorrow and over the weekend anyway.

Any info atall on this would be greatly appriciated. Iv recently removed the abs pump, master cylinder and accumilator to replace a rotten inner wing, now the problem is i cant seem to successfully bleed the brake system. I have managed to bleed all the brakes using a pressure bleeding kit and for those that wont bleed using this method i have managed to bleed by turning on the ignition and letting the abs pump do the work. Now, the problem is is that i cant get any pressure on the brake peddle and the abs pump just runs continuously as if it cant build up pressure. From what i can gather from researching the internet there seems to be quite a complicated procedure for bleeding the brakes which im not 100% sure iv followed correctly, altho personaly i think regardless of order if i can get fluid thro all of the calipers then in my eyes its job done? All components were working fine before they were removed and have only been taken off and put back on. Has anyone had similar problems and are they known for being difficult like this? its a 1990 RRC 3.9 V8 Please please help and save the rangie from being scrapped!!!