Troll Hunter

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Troll Hunter last won the day on November 14 2016

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About Troll Hunter

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    Kaslo, BC, Canada

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  1. Thanks for another fascinating episode. As a one time Lotus Elite Type 14 owner, registration 4 CBD, in case it's still around, I found the interview really intersting, and I'm looking forward to more clips in future episodes. Mike
  2. Sorry, I meant to address that as well. I managed by inserting a suitable flat bar, about 2ft long, into one of the UJs, I forget which, and this locked the engine when it came against the concrete floor of my garage and I think I put it in reverse gear. Hope this helps. Mike
  3. Western has done a very good thread here: I am basically following it myself for a chassis-up rebuild. His thread also includes many links to useful sites, these being two of the most useful: http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/ This site is currently under reconstruction, but they can supply a complete kit of 200+ stainless steel bolts, nuts, spring and flat washers for re-mounting the body to the chassis. http://defenderchassis.co.uk/ One of the dreaded aspects of such a project is "creep", as you find additional things that must be done, should be done, or would be nice to do. Best of luck with your project, and I'll be looking for updates. Mike Best of luck with your project
  4. It's relatively easy to calibrate your torque wrench if you have a spring balance. It is probably easiest to do it on a wheel nut using the spring balance with a lever of known length. Since most torque wrenches operate against a spring, provided it is in good condition, and since springs have a constant length change per unit of force (Hooke's Law, I believe), accuracy at one load should indicate accuracy at other loads. If your 11Nm for the belt tension is repeated on a wheel nut you can be confident that you've done it correctly. Mike
  5. Thank you, Peaklander, for your input, it gives me more ideas and options for repair. I may just grind/sand blast the area clean and puddle weld the area and then grind the required profile. Or, I may just say to hell with it, and fill it with JB-Weld! Mike
  6. Looks like you have to take the door off the hinges to allow you to totally remove the door card and get access to all parts of the mechanism. Mike
  7. Thanks for the details, Western. Since nobody else has responded I assume that this is the standard procedure. I'm considering welding a mild steel 10mm rod onto the new box section instead of using YRM P- sections. This would be a lot cheaper for me, freight being the major cost. I'll update on how I get on. Mike
  8. Good morning, All, As in the title. I'm stripping down my 110 CSW for full rebuild and I'm sure there are forum members who have faced this tin worm challenge already. What are the options and recommendations for repair, please? Can the outer, curled over top, be separated from the major channel section? Can the B/C post be separated from the horizontal sections? Many thanks in advance for the bigger brain thoughts. Mike
  9. I've got a pair mounted immediately below the headlining on the rear panel each side. We camp/sleep in the vehicle, and are often fairly fully loaded, and they are out of the way here. Can't remember the make, but they work OK. We only use the ICE (!) when traveling so don't need it when camping or for out-of-vehicle listening. Mike
  10. Great productions, thank you. Liked and subscribed. Mike
  11. Or, drill, tap and plug the latest swivels, using a "proper one" as a guide for placement of holes. Then you can check and top up your oil as often as you need to. Mike
  12. Thank you, both. I hadn't thought of googling it. Mike
  13. I'm going to need to replace my lokuts and my parts manual shows Part No. RTC3744. A search on Paddock's returns no such part number, but a search for lokuts gives a number of results, a couple of which look as if they could be the correct one. Could somebody tell me if RTC3744 has been superseded, please, or tell me which of the Paddock's options is correct. Many thanks. Mike
  14. Yeh, thanks, I have found a few suppliers over here, and not costing too much more, so I think I'll be OK. If not, I'll get my daughter, who lives south of London, UK, to buy some and send them out to me. I'm obviously not in a rush for them. Mike
  15. Wow! What a lot of input. Thank you, everybody, for your suggestions and experiences. I'm now Googling and Ebaying fibre glass brushes this side of the water, but almost all of the search results show "From United Kingdom". Amazing! I note that there were no comments about separating these multi-plugs, specially when they've been installed for a considerable time - 26 years for mine. I meant to upload this photo of my method for separating them. I'm only using the pliers as the fulcrum between the two mole wrenches. This also shows the corrosion I'll be battling with. Mike