Troll Hunter

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Troll Hunter last won the day on November 14 2016

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About Troll Hunter

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    Kaslo, BC, Canada

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  1. Yes!!! Much more appropriate, and the developers. Mike
  2. Flood Plains are just that, the areas that get flooded in extreme weather conditions. Development on flood plains has too often been allowed because of councilors' vested interests, and to the eventual grief of the poor people who buy houses there. Perhaps the council should provide flood insurance for properties built on flood plains. Mike
  3. Duh! I'm already using your thread as my rebuild guide, all 225 pages of it in pdf format, and I was sure that it was elsewhere that I saw it, but that's the one. Thank you, again. Mike
  4. Western, Many thanks. As usual you have the answers to Part No. queries. It's the parts in your last response, NRC4693, that I was stuck on. I haven't got as far as the MRC9388, but you've saved me asking the question. All the ones circled in orange came out without a problem, but the spire nuts fixing the floor were addressed with Mr. Grinder! Do you recommend replacing these with spire nuts or with another type of fixing. I'm planning to use all stainless fixings for non-load bearing duties, I remember reading a thread on this forum, quite some time ago, that mentioned a kit of SS bolts, nuts, spring and flat washers specifically selected for re-attaching a Defender 110 body to the chassis, but I can't find it now, despite reading many of the rebuild threads. If anybody can point me in the direction of that thread I'd be most grateful, please. Mike
  5. I'm stripping the body off my vehicle in preparation for a chassis galv and total repaint. I've just taken out the intermediate floor panels, behind the front seats, and have removed (sheared!) the 16 M6 bolts that secure the toe panel brackets to the chassis. These have nut plates on the under side, but details do not appear to be shown in my 1987 110 Parts Manual. The photos show the brackets, there are two each side, and one of the nut plates. Please can anyone tell me the part number of these nut plates. I've already got so many jobs to do on this project that ordering new, instead of making new, will be a welcome saving of time and effort. Many thanks, in advance, for any help provided. Mike
  6. I mounted four lights on the front of my roof rack, immediately above the windscreen, for use off road, but they were a disaster. The reflected light from the bonnet - ivory white - totally defeated their use. When I replaced the roof rack with one that only came to the rear of the sloping cab roof they were wonderful. Basically, you need to ensure that the bonnet, if a light colour, does not receive direct illumination from the above screen lights. A matte-black bonnet would probably have been OK with the original roof rack. Of course, all the legal issues mentioned above would apply. Mike
  7. It's a case of "what holds a lot holds a little". There appears to be no downside, except for the extra 20 quid, and the HD fork ensures no future fork failure with the longer lasting clutch plate. And since it's just the same labour to replace with 130/HD components it's a no-brainer to me. Mike
  8. Defo go for the 130 clutch plate and cover and the HD fork and bearing. Mike
  9. ATM I'm doing a major tear down, intending to get the chassis, and perhaps some other bits, galved. I've got the doors off and they're holding up well, which they should be, since they were only done 5 years ago. The drain holes appear to have been working OK, and I don't think I'll need to give the steel work another coat of paint. Mike
  10. This year they had real fun on the coast, with maximums of 20cm of snow on the ground at YVR airport and Abbotsford had 45cm. And this is in an area that rarely gets any snow and where winter tyres are not compulsory! Mike
  11. Your confusion regarding General Grabber AT2 isn't surprising. It seems that they really set out to confuse their potential customers because some tyre sizes have the M&S and Mountains and Snowflake symbol, and some don't. So, some should be true winter tyres, and those without the symbol are, presumably, only summer tyres. In my area, by law, you have to use M&S tyres on cars and pick-ups in winter, and a national tyre specialist advertises that the softer winter tyre compound provides improved traction below 7 deg. C. Mike
  12. I'm surprised that this hasn't featured on the forum yet, or have I missed it? https://www.theguardian.com/business/2017/feb/13/chemical-giant-ineos-to-build-heir-to-the-land-rover-defender It'll take an awful lot to roll back the Toyota et al shares of the 4x4 market, as LR has already found. I'll be watching this development with interest. Mike
  13. Jocklandjohn, Thanks for the update on the use of hasps and staples. A very neat installation. Are you able to share the manufacturer details of the deadbolts, please, without compromising your own security? I can't find a double pin deadbolt over here. I also very much like your proposed hinge side security. Since my 110 is being totally stripped for rebuild now is the time to fit enhanced security options, although Land Rover theft is not such a problem this side of the pond. Mike
  14. Tacr2man, I have a full length roof rack on my 110 CSW and I find that when driving in heavy rain the water from the roof floods the gutters, due to the roof rack supports sitting in the gutters and preventing drainage to the rear, and then flows over the edge of the gutters and into the cabin above the poorly fitting doors/door seals. Does your "using a flat bar full length along the gutters to spread the load" also solve this problem since your gutters must be almost full for their entire length? Of course, you may just have a "Friday" Land Rover where nothing is correctly done, and the doors seal just well! Mike
  15. Jocklandjohn, I like the dead locks, and I can see the hasp and padlock in photos 1 and 4, but what are they locking, please? Mike