sharpy

Hi all Haven't posted for a while, I've been out of it for the last year, due to me having a stroke. So my question, I recently bought a sankey trailer, the tub is beyond saving, there are huge pieces missing in the base and sides. I'm going to give it a good jet wash tomorrow to see what is serviceable, I know all the fittings will be ok and the top finishing capping. The chassis is absolutely mint, we think it's had a new one at some stage? I haven't yet done any research on the M.O.D. Markings to get dates, etc. so to my question, would it be awful and a big no, no to replicate the tub with one made from 18 + 22mm hardwood ply? I've also acquired a series pick up tailgate to use as a rear load door, am I asking for trouble? I can't see why it won't work? I know I may be increasing the unladen weight, but I'm not going to be carrying huge loads, I think it will become a camping trailer? Paul

Have you checked the fuel bleed off pipes on the injectors? Sounds exactly the same as mine did last year, worth changing them for the pennies it costs and it's hard to find the holes, sorted mine.

Easy one for you :-) does anyone know the diameter of the hose needed that comes from the turbo and enters the intercooler at the bottom? I believe it's 51 mm id, needing to order a new pair as the 90 degree one that exits the turbo is not a tight enough bend. can't get it off the truck atm as I'm stuck at work

Well! I did it! I took the plunge. After seeing the two tyres mentioned in the flesh,plus others I went for the STTs, in direct comparison it looked better than the GT, kumho kl71 and the recip mud, in my opinion. The GT had a lot less tread than the STT and the guy fitting them pointed out that they wore quicker and start off with a lot less tread and didn't perform on road as well. The kumhos looked very similar to the GTs and got the same response from the fitter. We dropped both the STT and the GT, the results of this revealed that the wall of the GT was flimsy and wobbled noticibly to the eye? It sounded like a flat tyre, whereas the STT bounced and made that ping of something solid ( if that makes sense?) you could flex the wall of the GT, but the STT wouldn't bend easily by hand. Now I was using (don't laugh) some Greenway, "big macho" they where awful! Just a small comparison, driving on a muddy track, the truck slid sideways, the STTs didn't move on the same track. I've only done 100 miles this week and the truck feels like it's on rails on and off road, in the end I went for 33x12.5x15 on a 10 inch heavy duty, deep dish rim with a -32mm offset, yes they rub a little at half lock, once past half there fine? Full lock doesn't seem to be a problem, they catch slightly on the front wheel spat at the very rear. I'll address this tomorrow. They do stick out from the wheel spats about 2-3 inches, from an MOT point of view, I've been told that it's the widest part of the vehicle they shouldn't exceed? Which is the wing mirror, they are actually inline with the outer edge of these. So, my opinion? The drive well on road, the mud track I use, great! Noise levels are good, I can hear now and hold a normal conversation. They fill the arches beautifully, give the truck an aggressive look and they look awesome! Completely happy, so far, only a week in and 100 miles. So looking for a wide tyre choice? Try lr99gmc on ebay, he's local to me in sandiacre and does ship. I paid £780 for a 4 wheel package, fitted and balanced on the above rims, in short, happy!

Firstly hello, my first post anywhere else but the defender forum. So the question of the evening, which tyre? I have a defender 110, which chassis/lift wise is standard, I'm torn between 1. GT Radial adventuro 2 Cooper Discoverer STT BOTH IN 33x12.5x 15 or 16 on a simple modular wheel with a -32 offset Thoughts please other options also welcome, I mainly use the truck for a regular 10 miles a day, everyday on the road. Do a bit of greenlaning every other weekend and off-road play at shows etc. My only other considerations are I like to be ready for the snow, as I like to get out and help people with normal cars, I like the look of the style mentioned above. 3, 2, 1.......go!

Thanks all, now sorted. What a faff! It turned out after all that the very first hose connected to the turbo had come off! We couldn't see anything wrong? As some of you may appreciate with all the added and convoluted pipe work that goes on with a disco into defender swap

So ive today got hold of some silicone boost pipe, taken off the old hard plastic affair and spotted some interesting joins? At the turbo side there is an inch or so of rubber tube that fits over the ribbed spout that is part of the tee, into this is a smaller metal tube bent at a right angle that then houses the hard plastic tube, into the rubber fix that I replaced at the start of the thread and then out to hard tube upto the pump. so the rubber tube, misshapen and slid off with no problems, the metal tube looks like the original brake lines that a defender has, even has the flare in it? So question is, do I now omit all the makeshift bits at the tee and run the hose directly to pump and tee? I know pictures would be great but I'm on my phone and can't figure it out? Will the bore size of replacement tube and length have any bearing on things?

The boost Pipe is connected, in a fashion? The normal hard plastic tubing as it disappears near the alternator has been joined together ( for what ever reason?) by a larger diameter rubber hose sleeved over both parts and then banjo clips to secure? This was a weak point as the rubber looked a bit old. So I've redone that, I know not ideal? But that's how it's been for the four years I've owned the truck. I'm as we speak looking for a replacement, if anyone knows the internal diameter of the pipe that would help? Or in fact any of the turbo hoses? I'm going to replace them all I think? Is it ok to replace this hard plastic with rubber tube?

Hi again just had my cylinder head replaced and it's good, but not great? I now have no power? Engine sounds great but turbo doesn't seem to kick in, I have a constant whistle from around the turbo area when driving? When moving the whistle starts and continues until the clutch is depressed or in neutral. I'm assuming it's a hole in a pipe on the turbo some where? Also the new rocker cover didn't have a connection point for the engine breather that is in front of the cyclone breather so the pipe has now been cut and blanked off, would this cause loss of power?

If it needs to be the hard plastic stuff, what's it called, so I can buy some, or bore size?

Ok, so if I understand boost and pressure? Will normal fuel pipe be ok to replace it with? As its that hard plastic pipe now? Or will fuel pipe constric and reduce the boost?

It's a 200tdi so timing isn't touched when swapping the head. I've connected the pipe and it seems to have got rid of the sucking noise and it pulls better, I'll replace the pipe at the weekend as it looks a bit old?

Hi, Just a very quick question. From the top of the fuel pump there is a pipe that comes from the rear of the diaphragm area, this pipe then winds its way past the water thermostat housing and then toward the turbo. From the turbo in the same area that the fuel one ends there is a larger rubber pipe that has a clip on it, that looks as it would sleeve over the fuel pipe? Does it? Symptoms are little/ no power in any gear, continual sucking noise and when I'm at high enough revs, the turbo doesn't spin up? Just had a new head put on it, has this come loose or been left disconnected? Truck starts and runs beautifully in idle at stationery. Paul

I'm not an expert, but is the number plate bulb a festoon fitting? Metal at each end? If so then it could be that your coloured wires are not correct (previous owner wiring) or if, like me you buy your bulbs cheaply from ebay, sometimes the positive and negative can be the wrong way around and cause problems when wired "correctly" If number plate bulb is festoon, then it won't matter as it doesn't matter which way in its fitted.

Yeah I've read that there rare, but I now have 2 :-/ reb you have a PM, from what I have read today, putting the 300 head on gives the 200 the quietness of the 300 whilst improving performance slightly? Plus easier to obtain. I've also discovered that I do have 300 Pistons as the conversion needs this because of the injectors being in a different position they are shaped to accommodate this? I can blame the wife, she drove it 400 miles with it in the red and didn't think to do anything until she mentioned it after she got home, pretty conclusive evidence to me? ;-)