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FridgeFreezer

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by FridgeFreezer

  1. Standard values close to that are 39 and 200, I'll see what I've got and pop a selection in the post.
  2. You can short the gauge sense pin to ground to prove the needle moves, you can also stick resistors of known values from ground to the sense pin to see if it reads correctly - if you need a selection of resistors posting I'm sure I can sort you out a handfull if you let me know the values.
  3. I have a feeling I've heard that one before somewhere? Coat hat shoes gone byeeeeeeee!
  4. An interesting dig around in the suspension, for those of us who haven't been underneath one: https://www.autoblog.com/2021/07/27/land-rover-defender-110-suspension-deep-dive/?guccounter=1
  5. Worth saying that just applying 12v to it continuously is not good for it, tapping the wire on/off is a nicer way of doing it.
  6. Hi-lift is something you carry in the hope that you never have to use it.
  7. If I'm reading the previously mentioned post correctly, the hazard switch switches power to the flasher onto a light green wire, the purple wire at the stalk is nothing to do with the hazards. Also, the fact the hazards work just indicates that the flasher is OK and the hazard switch works in the "on" position, it could be cutting power to the flasher when switched "off" so you need to check that. Hazard switch OFF you have ignition-switched power from the dark green wire onto the light green wire to power the flasher unit when the ignition is on. The output from the flasher unit goes on a light green wire with brown stripe to the column switch Hazard switch ON you have permanent live from the purple wire to the light green wire to power the flasher unit when the ignition is OFF. I've attached a PDF with the more colourful diagram from the RAVE manuals Defender_hazards.pdf
  8. I have a lump of aluminium and a mill here... although no talent but the DRO makes up for it a bit.
  9. The wiring from panel to controller wouldn't shouldn't affect the battery side though, the controller is taking whatever it gets from the panel and regulating it down to charge the battery to a target voltage that it "sees" on its output terminals, what the battery actually gets is then subject to the drop on the cables from controller to battery.
  10. Sounds very possible for the input to be swapped to that side, the input gear won't care which side the shaft is coming in from.
  11. Ah I forgot they downgraded although I'm pretty sure the P38 has different axle casing / spring mounts etc...?
  12. Could it be skinny wiring causing a voltage bump at the controller end when it tries to push current into the battery? As I mentioned, my eBay controllers fought each other until I ran separate wires back to the battery box so they weren't dragging each other up & down.
  13. Either that's a naughty controller or something else thinks it should be generating 15.5v - if it was doing this when the only power source was solar I'd suggest there's something wrong with the controller, either for real or in its measurement section.
  14. >14.6v feels quite high for a system set to normal lead-acid mode, this page suggests <2.45v/cell which puts you at 14.7 max: https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-403-charging-lead-acid The graph here about low-temperature charging makes me wonder if one of these smart chargers thinks it's colder than it is and is bumping the voltage up: https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-410-charging-at-high-and-low-temperatures Although that wouldn't account for the much higher voltages seen earlier.
  15. I thought the same, I still think the "smart" parts are not being as smart as they claim to be or are getting confused / fighting each other. Setting it to 50/50 may be masking the problem not solving it.
  16. Yep, drill it slightly too deep and just centre-punch the edge a couple of times. On the plus side, a magnet stuck in a hole in a lump of steel will mostly try quit hard to stay in there.
  17. I used little magnets with a countersunk hole in the middle, drill & tap M3/M4 and loctite a little screw in as well as loctiting the magnet into the recessed hole. Just be aware that adhesives/sealants that tolerate oil are not necessarily the same as ones that will actually live submerged in oil.
  18. Given Dave's record I can only imagine how much stuff you could break with a 2.8
  19. I think you may have missed the point - people are saying use a jack sideways to gently spread the chassis rails, then the crossmember should fall out under its own gravity.
  20. @miketomcat reckon you could persuade TSD to do a swapsie for a functioning 200?
  21. Quite a few folks supplement that with an electrical one as they're known to go lazy with age.
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