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Everything posted by FridgeFreezer

  1. You can tweak MS ad infinitum, but I'm very lazy so both my trucks I got as far as "runs better than it ever did" and left it alone after not very much tuning at all. Both of them have been driven on long excursions (109 test drive was Russia, Ambulance did Norway & back this year without a beat missed) and although I know there's so much I could tweak to improve it, using the trucks takes priority over fiddling. It's easy to worry about the last 1% when you can see it on the laptop, when you were on carbs & dizzy you were probably miles out most of the time but had no idea.
  2. TBH the Maplin amplifier kit takes the load off the points and costs naff all.
  3. Bad news is those manifolds will go a lovely rusty colour after a few runs, most grades do, it's only certain ones that polish up and stay shiny and (I believe) they're not as strong.
  4. I had an Aldon Ignitor on my V8 and that was a decent bit of kit. I'd go for magnetic trigger rather than optical if that's still a choice. Well, I'd remove the dizzy and fit Megajolt if it was my choice I did like the 6cyl, makes a lovely burble.
  5. Half the setup with MS is doing it properly, you can do it very minimally by cutting the end off a crusty old flapper loom and be running in an afternoon but Nige's kit is a ground-up fresh and proper install. MS suffers from being all things to all people and the documentation (outside of Nige's specific stuff) covers too many bases, there's no short version. Still, better than not enough info. Another problem is over-thinking it, just 'cos there's a load of wires doesn't mean it's complicated, ultimately the bones of it is a very simple setup and the tuning rules are no different to carbs & points - you just set it using a laptop rather than a screwdriver.
  6. New Ford Bronco isn't it?
  7. Don't take too much off or it still won't fit, guess how I know
  8. Yep, reckon it's far more tolerable than it's been for a long time - even before the "old" gang quit.
  9. Here's your answer - Nige would be proud:
  10. Surely tee pieces for gauges would be all over eBay? Not a unique LR thing, as long as you know the thread(s). Local hydraulics supplier (or tractor place) should be able to sort you out.
  11. Yes I had to modify it as it was hitting the screenwash bottle, so it's shortened.
  12. I can't remember the circuit for the relay box but I have a vague feeling you may have to bridge a relay when running PWM. Anyone got the schematic for the relay box to hand?
  13. It won't be quick but it will be effortless.
  14. Nazarenu - it is the Webasto fuel burning heater unit, fitted behind the front bumper:
  15. M8 bolts holding the badge on, bl**dy animals.
  16. I used 6mm push-fit nylon and a push-fit 8mm / 10mm (whatever that little stub is) adapter:
  17. Is that an MS relay box? Can you confirm the wiring, it sounds like a relay might be being PWM'ed and causing the buzzing.
  18. Many potential places, but the popular solution is drill a few holes at the lowest point to let it all escape. Touch of paint/underseal on the holes to stop them rusting.
  19. What do you mean by "Turn the B&G off"? Can you share a bit more technical detail - settings you changed for example? Also is your ECU built for PWM valve control?
  20. Well, technically the FPR is a pressure relief valve, that's all it does.
  21. What engine is it? 98k is not much but they do have some common faults which would be expensive to fix long-distance. Plenty of parts (new & breakers) in the UK if you can live with shipping. Search back through this section of the forum for buying advice / common faults, been covered many times.
  22. If the starter won't turn don't keep trying, you'll burn something out. Try turning the engine by hand with a spanner on the crank (from memory it might be 27mm, same as the wheel nuts). Sounds like the gear selector is seized too, you might be able to free it off easily enough on the side of the gearbox. I would check engine & gearbox oils before starting it, to avoid damage. 20W50 or 15W40 for the engine, ATF for the gearbox. Where in the world are you? From the picture it looks like the Volvo maybe has Norway plates? Full technical manuals (RAVE) are linked in the technical archive section, will show you how everything goes together.
  23. Aye, I don't think the regulator goes on that nut and yes you do need one unless you are driving a later Thor P38 which I believe has the regulator in the fuel tank/pump assembly. Maybe these will help: This chappy (Early P38) I believe is to smooth out pressure fluctuations:
  24. Which Freelander & which Defender & which radio? Wiring differs from year to year, unit to unit...
  25. Last batch of boxes were black, and paint markers never work 1st time.