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Everything posted by FridgeFreezer
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Td5 Temp Gauge and Sender - A Discovery
FridgeFreezer replied to ThreePointFive's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Standard values close to that are 39 and 200, I'll see what I've got and pop a selection in the post. -
Td5 Temp Gauge and Sender - A Discovery
FridgeFreezer replied to ThreePointFive's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
You can short the gauge sense pin to ground to prove the needle moves, you can also stick resistors of known values from ground to the sense pin to see if it reads correctly - if you need a selection of resistors posting I'm sure I can sort you out a handfull if you let me know the values. -
ibex 300 build
FridgeFreezer replied to miketomcat's topic in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
I have a feeling I've heard that one before somewhere? Coat hat shoes gone byeeeeeeee! -
Thoughts and musings on the new defender
FridgeFreezer replied to Jamie_grieve's topic in New Defender Forum (2020 onwards)
An interesting dig around in the suspension, for those of us who haven't been underneath one: https://www.autoblog.com/2021/07/27/land-rover-defender-110-suspension-deep-dive/?guccounter=1 -
Worth saying that just applying 12v to it continuously is not good for it, tapping the wire on/off is a nicer way of doing it.
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Gearbox crossmember - how to remove?
FridgeFreezer replied to Junglie's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Hi-lift is something you carry in the hope that you never have to use it. -
If I'm reading the previously mentioned post correctly, the hazard switch switches power to the flasher onto a light green wire, the purple wire at the stalk is nothing to do with the hazards. Also, the fact the hazards work just indicates that the flasher is OK and the hazard switch works in the "on" position, it could be cutting power to the flasher when switched "off" so you need to check that. Hazard switch OFF you have ignition-switched power from the dark green wire onto the light green wire to power the flasher unit when the ignition is on. The output from the flasher unit goes on a light green wire with brown stripe to the column switch Hazard switch ON you have permanent live from the purple wire to the light green wire to power the flasher unit when the ignition is OFF. I've attached a PDF with the more colourful diagram from the RAVE manuals Defender_hazards.pdf
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Electrical help re solar panel and over voltage
FridgeFreezer replied to Jocklandjohn's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
The wiring from panel to controller wouldn't shouldn't affect the battery side though, the controller is taking whatever it gets from the panel and regulating it down to charge the battery to a target voltage that it "sees" on its output terminals, what the battery actually gets is then subject to the drop on the cables from controller to battery. -
Electrical help re solar panel and over voltage
FridgeFreezer replied to Jocklandjohn's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Could it be skinny wiring causing a voltage bump at the controller end when it tries to push current into the battery? As I mentioned, my eBay controllers fought each other until I ran separate wires back to the battery box so they weren't dragging each other up & down. -
Electrical help re solar panel and over voltage
FridgeFreezer replied to Jocklandjohn's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Either that's a naughty controller or something else thinks it should be generating 15.5v - if it was doing this when the only power source was solar I'd suggest there's something wrong with the controller, either for real or in its measurement section. -
Electrical help re solar panel and over voltage
FridgeFreezer replied to Jocklandjohn's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
>14.6v feels quite high for a system set to normal lead-acid mode, this page suggests <2.45v/cell which puts you at 14.7 max: https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-403-charging-lead-acid The graph here about low-temperature charging makes me wonder if one of these smart chargers thinks it's colder than it is and is bumping the voltage up: https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-410-charging-at-high-and-low-temperatures Although that wouldn't account for the much higher voltages seen earlier. -
Glue/epoxy/sticky stuff - magnetic drain plugs
FridgeFreezer replied to Gazzar's topic in Tools and Fabrication
Or hydraulics shop. -
Electrical help re solar panel and over voltage
FridgeFreezer replied to Jocklandjohn's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
I thought the same, I still think the "smart" parts are not being as smart as they claim to be or are getting confused / fighting each other. Setting it to 50/50 may be masking the problem not solving it. -
Glue/epoxy/sticky stuff - magnetic drain plugs
FridgeFreezer replied to Gazzar's topic in Tools and Fabrication
Yep, drill it slightly too deep and just centre-punch the edge a couple of times. On the plus side, a magnet stuck in a hole in a lump of steel will mostly try quit hard to stay in there. -
Glue/epoxy/sticky stuff - magnetic drain plugs
FridgeFreezer replied to Gazzar's topic in Tools and Fabrication
I used little magnets with a countersunk hole in the middle, drill & tap M3/M4 and loctite a little screw in as well as loctiting the magnet into the recessed hole. Just be aware that adhesives/sealants that tolerate oil are not necessarily the same as ones that will actually live submerged in oil. -
ibex 300 build
FridgeFreezer replied to miketomcat's topic in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Given Dave's record I can only imagine how much stuff you could break with a 2.8 -
Gearbox crossmember - how to remove?
FridgeFreezer replied to Junglie's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
I think you may have missed the point - people are saying use a jack sideways to gently spread the chassis rails, then the crossmember should fall out under its own gravity. -
ibex 300 build
FridgeFreezer replied to miketomcat's topic in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
@miketomcat reckon you could persuade TSD to do a swapsie for a functioning 200?