jimfoo

Been driving mine every day to work, had been taking some short trips to look for rocks/minerals, but no off road until I get a new halfshaft. With all the cold temps, I've been having to plug it in at night quite a bit. Glad I have Kodiak and Smith's heaters.

Must not have seen a Kodiak then.

Why would you need a shovel to get out of the parking space? I didn't need a shovel for this...

I put a GM amp on my Rangie and it's been running just fine, especially at $30. £380! It better double your horsepower and wipe your back side for that price!

You could always roll your own.

VW's & Audi's had them, I think some Saabs, late 80's - early 90's Chrysler, Nissan's. Probably a lot of others as well. Size wise I only know Garrett, and a VNT 25 would probably be in the ballpark for a 200-300 TDI.

And my actuator looks odd as it is a vacuum type which I took apart, swapping the internals around so that it would work on boost. It also allows for easily changing springs out.

One person's setup. A thread with pics on another setup. And mine... Here is what I rigged up to control the vanes on the VNT. The cable pulls on the cam, rotating it, which pushes against the spring and vane control, closing the vanes. It is in the open position here. Here I am pulling on the cable which will hook to the throttle via a spring. The cam has fully closed the vanes, and the bolt at the back of the cam is almost touching the actuator. Here the actuator is receiving full boost(from my air compressor) and is pushing on the bolt, opening the vanes to reduce boost. I later on welded a small tab so the cam(off a Subaru carb)would pull up on the vanes instead of relying only on the spring.

Having had a VGT on my Series for some time now, I'll pipe up. My vanes are controlled by a cable and springs hooked to the go pedal. Vanes are forced normally open by a spring. The cable hooks to a stronger spring, and when you step on the accel pedal, it overcomes the weaker spring, closing the vanes. A boost actuator will overcome both springs when the desired boost is reached, opening the vanes. There are various configurations based on this general idea that are now running on VW engines on vwdiesel.net, and no one, myself included has anything bad to say about how they work. Also having the vanes controlled by throttle position helps with fuel economy as the exhaust is only restricted when you need more power. Turbocharger, in your thread, you mention adjusting something that Mitsubishi put in a hard to get at place. I hope it isn't the screw that limits how far the vanes close as that is a critical factory setting and should never be changed. Also here is a good pic showing how they work.

Mine has a body coloured roof and a white sunsheet.

If you run it, filter it well, and don't run more than 20% or you will end up coking everything up and ruining your engine.

I had an antenna that had an ok SWR, but it was very stiff, I added a spring, and the SWR was past 3 on any channel no matter how I tuned it. I ended up finding a thin strip of copper foil taped near the tip brought the SWR down to a reasonable level, 1.5 on 1 & 40. I had to do a lot of trial and error on strip width and placement. It works by adding capacitance to the antenna, thereby lowering it's resonant frequency.

Classicvolvo.com had similar problems with Ford, fought them and won.

Heard on the news that Kodak made their last batch of Kodachrome. Sad...

No, unfortunately just Jeep rentals.