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Hazza

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    Wetherby, West Yorkshire

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  1. Now that I've done the job, I think you'd struggle to make it much more compact or concealed than is shown above. My own setup shown below
  2. Have a look at this post Snagger - it's actually a job I plan on doing this weekend! Central locking Series Door https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/108191-central-locking-series-door/
  3. Thanks for the input guys, I'll have a look at the options and see what works for me. Thanks!
  4. I wonder if anyone here can point me to a good (free) piece of software and a tutorial which would get me on my way towards modelling a part for 3D printing. I have a pair of 110 second row door cards which are in reasonable condition apart from the section which covers the check strap which is totally destroyed (but I have enough of them left for measuring etc). It seems to be that it would be possible to make a part which fits (bonded) to the inside of the card and fairly accurately replicates the missing part. Problem is I have no idea how to do this!! Image shows the piece I'm talking about!
  5. I had a Td5 90 as my first car which I loved, and having not really driven much else I didn't mind the comforts of a more modern car. I then had a couple of euroboxes, and now have a 110 which I ran as a 200tdi for a few years and have now converted to Td5 power. I really missed the drivability of the Td5 - it just has a bit more power and the ability to rev it means I find it easier to keep up with traffic. It's unmapped currently so has plenty more to give. I have a company car (Tesla... 😳) but find myself drawn to driving the 110 whenever possible, far more involved/interesting for a journey! So I'd go for a Td5 personally, but definitely listen to the advice above about buying based on condition. Depending on where you're based, there's bound to be someone on here who's local to you who'd be happy to come and look at vehicles with you.
  6. Keep at it, you're doing some really lovely fabrication work there.
  7. Hello, Could someone please measure the diameter of the bar which the rear of the second row seats latch to? For clarity this is the loop of round bar in the floor which the rearmost latch grabs. Thanks in advance
  8. Sounds like a great project, please share details as you go!
  9. Glad this might be of use to someone else! I'll pull the speedo cable off next time I'm working on the car and see how/if it can be grafted onto the sensor, I expect that this will be relatively easy and I'll then just need to modify the clamp to hold the cable to the sensor. Updates as and when I have them
  10. Maybe a very niche use case, but a little project I've been thinking about and finally started is to get the cruise control working on my defender while retaining the TDI cable-driven speedo. Initial thoughts included creating some sort of splitter to drive both the Speedo and a speed sensor. But then I realised that the sensor could probably be modified to sit between transfer box and Speedo cable. Worth noting, I'm running a discovery ECU, so makes sense to use the discovery sensor which has a different number of pulses per revolution to the defender sensor (I believe). Also helps that I had the discovery sensor to hand. Photos are pretty self explanatory, but essentially I took the sensor apart, then pulled everything apart (all press fit). Then drilled a 4mm hole through the central shaft and out of the top of the casing. Next step will be to affix to the end of the speedo cable somehow, and shorten the cable outer to take the sensor's depth into account. I'll update as I progress.
  11. Have you paired the ECU with the alarm? I've retrofitted a Td5 but had it deimmobilised so I'm not sure how you go about doing the pairing! You mentioned that it has crank signal - you could try tow-starting it to rule out any potential noise from the starter causing issues.
  12. Really hard to tell from your photo and without wire colours - but is it this one? https://www.lrworkshop.com/connectors/defender-2002my/C0448
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