jaysjetski

sold. thanks

yup this is true. i just changed the battery. doesnt beep. i wish i had know this for the last year!!!!!!!!!

sound like the rear subframe Mount gone to me. drivers side front bolt mount. see if it will move when the rear wheels are raised by inserting a long bar between the suframe and chassis, if it moves then the chassis has split and the captive mut is lose causing a knocking sound when on bumps etc. hope this helps

hi all, not sure if this is in the right section,sorry if it isnt, this is the sale of my 1999 freelander 1.8 petrol. 83500 miles, mot october 2011, tax june 2011, has had the headgasket changed at 73000 miles with also a new reconditioned cylinder head and cambelt kit, also has the vvc alloy inlet fitted, new clutch fitted only 2000 miles ago. vcu bearing changed feb 2010, 5 matching khumo road venture A/T tyres with loads of tread, good condition inside and out, passenger side wing mirror cover is taped on, rear bumper has a small scuff, rear boot inner trim panel has holes in as it had a dog guard fitted, everything works, abs, t/c, hill decent etc. more pictures on request. located in bristol. £1400 ono

3k vibration sounds like the driverside ird mounting bracket failure. i had the same thing plus i had 2 bolts missing, you will have to remove the driver front wheel, engine protector cover, then have a good look at the bracket that is 'C' shaped going wat looks like around the drivershaft. it may have cracked or have bolts missing. there are several. one really long one which goes in underneath the powersteering pump. hope that help. rear subframe bush is a pain in the ass but about an hours works. undo the 4 rear subframe bolts to lower the frame,(not remove) then get at the front bush, remove replace and refit the subframe bolts.

my car has done this since i bought it in jan 2010 and still does it!!!! surely the battery should of gone flat by now!!! but the fob is the only one i have and still beeps until i turn the ignition key.

Just get a roof mounted half size box. i have one. im 5'8" and my wife is 5'1" all we do is stand on the rear tyre or the door sill. its not great but for a few bags of clothes or boots then surely its not that much of an issue. if you were packing you antique china then you mite need to see what your doing and have better reach. as for car parks most are over 2.1m-2.4m. freelanders are about 1.8m and roof box is .4m.(approx 2.2m) plus once you are camping my roof box only takes 2-3minutes to fit and remove. This is the box i have http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_categoryId_165500_productId_709089_langId_-1?cm_mmc=Shopping-_-Google%20Product%20Search-_-Roof+Bars+%26+Boxes/Roof+Boxes-_-Exodus+360L+Roof+Box+Gloss+Black+2009&source=shopping&istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istItemId=lwmlqi&istBid=t

my haynes manual shows a picture fitted as the way you found it. however when i replaced mine they were the other way like you think they should be facing the bearing and thats how i refitted. didnt cover in grease though and touch wood no problems for 6000 miles

easy enough job to do... duno whats a local garge charge then work out from there. got to be £150 plus parts minimum i would say

i know this is an old thread, i have heard if you dont remove the gearbox adaptor to the rear prop then the car is still using the ird. thus saving some fuel but not as much as it could. also if the front wheels slip/loose traction then it tries to put the power to the rear wheels thus cause more issues as its not there.

they are on the petrol model, and they come when u buy the gasket kit. i have 2 new ones for a petrol head if u wanna pay the postage

yes its only for closing the window. i dont know if you know but unlock the car fully. hold down the unlock button for 5 seconds and the rear window will go down. to close put key in boot and turn holding until it fully closed. it a shopping mode so u havnt got to open the boot. jay

webasto's can be bought for petrols as i have one in my garage to fit to my wifes 1.8 freelander to help defrosting for the school run

no, the tc light is the traction control. its flashing because a wheel is spinning and the cars traction control system is active and trying to stop it spinning.

^^^^^ just to check you are bleeding it correctly? bleed closed,pedal up. open bleed press pedal and hold down to floor, close bleed then pedal up. then repeat. unless its different than bleeding brakes. this does not sound right.... I had my son depress the pedal to the floor, I'd release the pressure via the bleed nipple and retighten it, he would lift the pedal fully back up to the normal position by hooking his toe underneath. or this....... This time I flushed it thru faster not bothering to close the bleed nipple on the upstroke of the pedal.