hattymender

Sorry about slow reply, been fooling about looking for somewhere to fit it. Thanks for the advice, the lights light and the channels change so it works. Maybe

The wife, unwisely, let me wander off on my own at our local market cum car boot sale this morning. So I'm now the proud owner of a go-cart, a gel battery, some begonias, and a Moonraker Minor CB. Fortunately (?) she focused on the go-cart ("you senile old pillock...." etc.) so didn't get too much stick over the CB. The question. No antenna (what do you want for £5?) but I want to check if it'll power up before investing further. I seem to remember reading somewhere that it's a bad idea turning it on without 'load' on the antenna. Is this correct?

Had to replace the radiator before Christmas due to it splitting in the cold (about minus 15) and not wanting a repetition was 'generous' with the antifreeze when refilling (due to 5 gallons being donated by a mate, or rather the company he's store man for ). Currently it's about 60/40 antifreeze to water. But I've been told too much antifreeze can be bad. Why?

Hatty continues to get more incontinent with age, this time the petrol tank . It's a pin hole caused by salty crud between the carrier and the tank. The tank's generally in good condition, just a pin hole at the bottom. But where there's one hole showing there's another brewing? As I run 99% of the time on LPG £100+ for a new tank is a bit much for carrying the couple of gallons I usually have in. I've fixed leaks before (other tanks) with the two part epoxy patch but it always seems to leak again after a month or so I'm thinking of 'in tank' sealers. The sort you pour in and slosh about to cover all the inside. Has anybody tried these? Any success?

David, Typing this with frozen fingers but just had to say thank you for recommendation! Adapters (elbow and pipe) arrived last week but radiator held up due to weather. DHL staggered in with box at lunchtime (Sunday!?). Biggest, most ludicrous and best packaging I've ever seen! Took me half an hour with wrecking bar to get in! Will keep box for storing odds n sods in LR. Much better quality than pattern parts, core must be about 50% thicker. I'm well chuffed.

Well that's kicked £100 out of my daughter's paypal account. Wonder how long it'll be before retribution? Many thanks:D

Sorry about slow reply, been fooling about under bonnet. Top hose inlet, looks to be straight? Mine angles inwards a bit, is the one you got straight? Did hoses fit ok?

Radiator gone and there's a bit of confusion which type I have due to being a conversion. It's a 1988 110 V8. No oil cooler. Two inlets/outlets on offside upper; one to head breather, other to header tank. Normal inlet/outlet. Same rad when in 2.5 petrol form but with head breather blanked off. Part number? Thanks in anticipation

Called to see a friend who was struggling to get the sump plug out of an old Mondeo. They have a small 10mm head but the bolt body's about 14mm, the sump's aluminuim. And it was well stuck. I headed for stilsons (nice big ones), he stopped me and headed for camping kit and produced one of those 12v 'drop in cup' heaters (looked suspiciously bent to get element to sit flat on sump, must have done this before). Plugged it in, held it against sump for a few minutes with aid of welding glove and 'hey presto' out came the plug with a slight tap on a10mm spanner. Simples! Obviously heat expanded aluminium sump faster than steel plug and broke the hold on the thread. 12v element doesn't push out enough heat to melt the alloy. Probably. Learn something every day?

The CF-P2 Odyssey Moderators. Accept this goes well OT but I'll drag it back to Land Rovers. Honest. The wife knows the syndrome; I read a thread, get glazed expression, and disappear into garage. Before the thread started I was blissfully unaware such a thing as a CF-P2 even existed, but it's dominated my spare evenings for the last couple of weeks. Please note that I'm writing this to give a 'numpties' advice to fellow 'numpties'. By definition most of the advice you find on the net is written by the IT literate, but sometimes they assume knowledge far beyond mine. Please also note that there's a vast amount of software available on the net, some more legal than others. Please don't blame me if the SPG batter your door down. Anyway, the starting of the thread coincided with me 'washing' my mobile in a ditch. Again. So I was in the market for an 'indestructible' phone. And it would be great if it was; Cheap (most important. I'll probably break it) Have useful functions like Excel to calculate fuel consumption and .pdf reader for manuals. (I'm always printing pages off manuals only to lose them in wind when working outside, wouldn't it be great to have them 'on screen'?) Be able to run GPS software (destroying Sat Navs is another hobby of mine) The CF-P2 looked ideal, so after a couple of tense evenings spent bidding I possessed one for the princely sum of £17.99 plus P&P. On arrival it turns out to be the 'full version', unlocked but no TomTom. A quick forage in the spares draw found an SD card (not SDHC, they won't work) and I managed to transfer the Land Rover 'skin' by loading it directly to the SD card plugged into my PC then putting it in the CF-P2 and launching the file. A promising start. But a fluke, lead me to believe you could load other programmes easily. I now know better. Data cable. To get programmes transferred to the phone you use ActiveSync or Windows Mobile Device Centre (WMDC) if you've got Vista . After a long struggle I discovered that the version of Vista on my PC had a crippled version of Active Sync, I had to go to Microsoft web site to download Mobile Device Centre, it's free. This will work via Bluetooth but it's easier with a cable. But CF-P2 data cables are as rare as rocking horse poo so you have to make one. A Panasonic G87 cable is the same 'format' and can be had off Amazon for £1.99, so I ordered 2. You have to take the connector apart, de-solder the existing connectors and solder on an 'ordinary' USB cable (the USB end of the supplied cable has a little PCB attached full of wiggly amp stuff that upsets things. Better to just nick the cable off some old device like a mouse and solder it on). The connections are: 1=gnd 2=usb host D+ 3=usb host D- 4=usb sync D+ 5=usb sync D- 6=usb +5v in (usb detect) 7=i2c bus clock (this bus seems to output system data to somewhere???) 8=i2c bus data 9=audio out to car speaker 10=gnd 11=audio in from car mic 12=cradle detect (input,active low) 13=external power/charge 14= cradle int??? (input,active low) For the cable you'll need 1, 4, 5, and 6. Transferring programmes. I'd never done this with a CE device before and had a bit of trouble. There are two types of programme that run on mobiles .exe and .cab. Slightly different procedure for each. First experiment was with Acrobat (this is a .exe). I downloaded the mobile version onto my PC from the Adobe site, then found it using Explorer in WMDC. At first I dragging and dropped it onto the SD card in the CF-P2. Hit the .exe and it wouldn't run. Check the internet. Ahhh! You have to open WMDC and hit the .exe while it's still on the PC! Then your PC does magic things and puts it on the mobile, icon in 'programmes' and all. Loaded the parts manual and workshop manuals by drag and drop and they all work nicely. It's a bit tedious to browse on such a small screen, but for specific data like torque figures it's great. .CAB files. A lot of CE stuff comes as .CAB files. This normally takes the form of a package of files in .zip or .rar format. You download them onto your PC then click on the .cab from Explorer in WMDC. What you don't do (and I did) is unpack or extract them first. If you hit the file 'as it comes' WMDC sorts it out and puts it on your device, for reasons beyond me it doesn't work if you extract the files first. Sat Nav. I ordered the CoPilot jobbie listed above. Turned it on, turned Bluetooth on on the CF-P2 and launched Bluetooth manager. This found the CoPilot and using 'properties' I created a shortcut so it launches automatically when I turn Bluetooth on. Easy! For once. (What wasn't so easy was my current Bluetooth hands free. The CF-P2 finds it, connects, then drops the connection about 10 minutes later. I don't know why, yet). For satnav software this site is very useful but you have to become a 'sponsor' to download. http://www.simplesatnav.com/ Actually using the thing. Indestructibility? Much better than normal devices. But in demonstrating how good it is to a friend I dropped it on the floor and the battery popped out. And clever boy hadn't backed up his settings so two hours to get it back to where I started. Battery Life? In standby mode it seems to last at least 48 hours, but I've been farting about with it too much to confirm actual life. In operation it seems to last about 5 hours. Fitting it to a 110 I had a 'universal' mounting that sucks to windscreen so this was pressed into service. This used in conjunction with a cassette adaptor for 'hands free' has worked well enough, but needs plugging in every trip and basically lacks ambition. But I'd bought two G87 cables? The second one was used to make a 'docking station'. Pins 1 & 13 for 5v charging, pins 7 & 8 for audio. A forage in the spares bin brought up an old USB/Phones to front of PC thingy. This was cut up and lashed to the bottom of my home brew centre console (the product of reading another thread on this forum). A cig lighter to USB adaptor. A lot of wiring and ….. It works! FM transmitter from Amazon (bit naffy looking but works) As a bonus the unit nicked from the PC has two sensors for monitoring chip temperature. A quick test showed these still work and are quite accurate 'in air'. So I can now monitor internal and external temperature. Which with 110's heater is much the same thing.

Just got one and I've a little problem. The SD card. I tried a 1Gb SD (not SDHC, or at least I don't think so). It worked, but now it doesn't. Must admit I was mucking about with the settings but there's nothing that would turn the SD off is there?

Been playing 'hunt the oil leak' (again). While lying under a warm 110 with the exhaust 6" from my nose waiting for the next drip (it's the transfer box) I got to thinking about something that's been troubling me for some time; how much energy is 'wasted' through the exhaust? And can I recover some of it? (as an aside, how many other's find lying under a Land Rover strangely therapeutic? Or is it just me? ) I seem to remember reading somewhere that about 50% of the energy in fuel goes out of the exhaust pipe, and a fair bit through the radiator. Now 50% of a V8's fuel is a lot of energy. Has there been any successful attempts at capturing some of this? I'm thinking something like a supplementary steam engine driven by a flash boiler in the exhaust pipe (closed loop system?). Or a Stirling heat engine driven by hot exhaust? Or directly driving ancillaries via a turbine? Possibly simpler, and more relevant with winter coming, is to use it for extra heating (wrap a copper pipe around the exhaust and pump it through an extra heater)? Presumably it's not that simple or mainstream manufacturers would all be doing it?

Thank you kind sir!

Hatty's indicator relay is playing up. Well, a bit. (Most of Hatty is a 1988 110) In normal use it gives one flash of the trailer light along with the normal indicator warning then works normally. With a trailer plugged in there's no trailer warning. But it works fine. Now I have my old loom following a bulkhead swap with a full set of relays. And I'm sure it's the large transparent blue one full of wiggly amp stuff? But a bit of reassurance would be nice before I brave the elastic-tricity stuff:)

Do these need a plug in antenna for GPS? What sort?