PS_Bond

Ach, if you can do it at all I'll be grateful! If I'm lucky I might get as far as taking some of the old one off this weekend.

What would be the chances of you posting photos of the process, please? I've got a moderate idea of what I'm doing now, but the reinforcement would be greatly appreciated. If I get time this weekend I should be able to finish stripping down the beast to ready to cut the existing crossmember (and replace the final brake pipe) - providing I don't get too carried away with playing with the new plasma cutter...

Thank you for that - I've been a bit concerned about how I'd get that sorted; that's a great idea and should help with shield gas too. I've just got to drop the fuel tank out on mine then I can chop out the old one & get on with fitting the nice new Black Sheep one I received last week. Well, once I've tested some more of my welds to destruction anyway.

Similarly I have one of the £99 with glass ones now (fancied a new rear window with no scratches). One of the ally angle brackets wasn't in fantastic condition when it arrived, but I'm sure I'll manage. Need to flat back the primer and spray it next.

Cor, I missed all that! Copper grease is going onto everything that I might want to undo ever again... Left hand drill bits sometimes help, but not if they haven't had some prior persuasion (heat, plus gas). I've grown perhaps overly fond of resistance heating using an arc welder though

Nah, it's off regardless. The bulb is fine, it appears to be making contact with the PCB - it just has +12V both sides. The old alternator delivers 14.3V at least - the 100A Magnetti Marelli read 12.3.

Solved the first problem; nothing more than a duff contact to the PCB. The alternator problem is interesting though... With the alternator completely disconnected the warning light does not illuminate - there's 12V either side of the lamp, which makes little sense given the circuit diagram. Help?

If it comes to it, I have a manifold on my dead engine (although perhaps I should take the EGR valve off first). What are the chances of getting a weld onto the bolt remains? Recent experience would suggest that would stand a better chance of success than those infernal screw extractors.

I plugged mine back in despite it not being connected at the other end - beat loose connecters in the engine bay. I presume you've Plusgassed the bolt to death? Heated it yet?

Saw the same behaviour when I fitted the wrong temp sender on my 300TDi - slightly alarming, but I had a thermocouple measuring the water too so was able to blame the sender rather than panic about overheating.

Think I've got it on the wiring diags - temperature sensor to the EGR ECU. Pink with a black trace, green with a blue trace? C027 (on the head, between rocker cover & inlet manifold)

Going purely on the location - there's a 2 pin plug under the rubber cover around the rocker cover, damned if I can remember what the sensor is though. Not oil pressure, not water temp. Possibly linked to the EGR controller, but IIRC the EGR valve plug comes from the front backwards? Didn't check the wiring colours while I was there though

Don't I know it! Starting to think that mocking up the graphic and lasering it onto waterproof laser paper is probably the only realistic solution.

Daft question - when was the timing belt last done? (scratch that - it's a chain on that one, isn't it?)

Oops... I'm at 6's & 7's it would seem. MTC6006 is actually the one I mean - the 3 coloured one on the RHS. Sorry!