John_T

£10 is a rip off! I always use beambenders in France and get them on fleabay for about £1.60 a go. They are better than black tape and allow some light through. I use motorcycle visor cleaner (small spray bottle) to get the residue off. I go the France quite regularly. Be warned....French "plod" has recently upped his stop the Brit campaign as he has twigged there is lots of dosh to be made in the "on the spot fine" game. It appears his mian targets are:- 1 No hi-viz vest merchants 2 No beambender miscreants 3 Those who have bike racks and no lighting board. Buying the whole lot of these items costs a lot less than one on the spot fine.

Check that the fuel pressure regulator is not leaking. Also, if the TD5 has done a few miles and is begining to age, the injector seals can fail which allows the injectors to leak fuel into the sump. They need to "re-fill" before it will start and the sump oil level tends to rise gradually. Worth checking anyway.....

Changed the clutch in my TD5 90 at 85,000miles. The clutch was still fine with pleny of lining left but the dual mass flywheel was screwed. Land Rover wanted £250 for a clutch kit (OEM- Valeo) so being a cheapskate I bought a Motaquip kit for £79. When I opened the box.......behold...a Valeo clutch! Been fine ever since and it is now on 108000 miles.

As advised above, bin the EGR. The EGR only works at idle and has no real effect on temperature. I ditched mine with no ill effects at all and achieved better running. No change whatever in temp readings both guage and on the "puter". I still have the LR temp gauge and this seems accurate enough when I check it against the ECU generated figure.

Bloody shame!!! Pete found my TD5 90 for me when they were like hens teeth and has been a great help and a mate ever since. He always seemed to have what I wanted for my Series One in stock and would let me use the ramps to work on my truck at the week-ends. We need more places like Country Rovers....hope he sets up something else soon. I guess he will have lost the Zuke special he was building but I don't think he kept the tractor at the workshops. Knowing the building it will have been a total loss and a ground up re-build even if they do decide to replace it. The supermarket fire next door was as a result of drugged up kids setting fire to a bin.

My TD5 90 has 265/75-16 BFG Muds on Freestyle alloys and the turning circle of the QE2! The stops are properly adjusted. My only options to improve matters would be spacers or offset wheels but I will stick with it as it is because to me, having the wheels bearings in the right place to minimise wear is more important.

James, I had this yonks ago on an old Cortina. In the end (as Tim alluded to in his post) it turned out to be the hose. You could blow through it OK and it seemed fine, but after a couple of pedal depressions the inner wall was caving in. Leave it a while and it would expand again. In view of all the other things you have changed it may be worth trying a new bit of hose. John

James, I will be there.

Sorry...not been paying attention...I can still come? Is it too late to order F&C x1?

I also have a Trutrac in the front axle my TD5 90 (Detroit Locker in the back). You don't know its there when on the road but does its stuff in the rough. So far it is 100% reliable (9 months).

I don't think there is such a thing for the simple reason that it is purely a device which measures the volume of air flowing through it and advises the ECU accordingly. What you need to do is ensure the maximum volume of cool air is flowing into the engine. You have aready done the intercooler so other items to look at are the air filter (try a K&N) and the EGR. By EGR I mean removing it by use of a kit like to one sold by Bell Auto Services. This removes the valve and allows a smoother air flow. Hope this makes sense.

I recently paid £189 for a 10 ton press so was feeling a bit miffed when I saw this....but hang on...do I not see a basic bottle jack stuck in a frame with some springs attached? At least mine has a proper hydraulic ram and a pressure guage...maybe I haven't been done after all!

Nice one Les. I would add the following for TD5s:- :TD5s do not have two hub nuts and the lock washer in between. Instead they have a single nut with a "peen over" section as per this piccy.... When removing the hub nut ensure you bend back the peened over section of the nut properly and clear of the stub axle threads otherwise (as I found to my cost) the deformed bit of the nut can pick up on the stub axle and trash it. This is what was left of the nut thread... ..and the stub axle thread... There is a spacer bewtwwen the two hub bearings which in effect sets the adjustment to you simply do the nut up to about 15 ft lb to settle the bearings, spin the nub to check it is OK, torque the nut up to 150 ft lb, check the hub still spins freely and then peen over the nut on the flat side of the stub axle.

Tim, I have already done all the suspension bushes....nothing left to do!!

Just to prove I am not a complete cheapskate, I did buy and fit a new thrust ring!!!!