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nickwilliams last won the day on December 12 2015

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About nickwilliams

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    Old Hand

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    Middle of the Peak District
  1. Don't know if anyone's interested but Whitham's have an auction ending next week in which there are eight WMIK ZF 4HP 220S automatic gearboxes. Currently starting at £100 each with no bids.
  2. The voltage drop you are seeing is the consequence of the high current being taken by the glow plugs (around 70A if they are working properly) and the contact resistance in the glow plug relay. The resistance of the wiring and the connectors on the relay won't help either. As the plugs get hot, the current reduces (down to less than 40A after around 10 seconds) which is why the voltage goes up. Sounds like your relay is working fine, although it's to be expected that a used relay will have higher contact resistance than a new one. You really need to measure the current, not the voltage, to determine if the plugs are working OK. They fail by going high resistance.
  3. Mechanical starters can be used where batteries cannot - for example very cold locations. I have an ex-military 30kVA generator which has a 6.3 litre straight six Ford engine and two massive (120Ah) batteries. It also has a hydraulic accumulator which is pumped up with about 10 minutes cranking on a handle. Once it's charged the hydraulic pressure is used to drive a very clever reciprocating rack arrangement on the end of the crankshaft which can drive the engine for several revolutions. The generator is rated to start down to -10 deg. C on the electric starter and (with the aid of what is effectively a capsule full of Easy Start squirted into the air intake manifold) -40 deg. C on the hydraulic starter.
  4. Yes please.
  5. I'm local to you, Peaklander. I have more taps than you are ever likely to need. PM me if you want to borrow a few.
  6. The speedo and the three 52mm gauges are interchangeable between the two types of binnacle but the warning light pack from the pre-TD5 binnacle is a different shape to the TD5 pack so if you want to have the illuminated heater controls which come with the TD5 upgrade, you'll also have to fit the TD5 warning lights. EDIT - have just noticed that the Raptor binnacle does not have illumination even for the TD5 version. Consider my comment as applying only to the original plastic items.
  7. I just pulled them in with a nut and an impact wrench. I used a few washers as a spacer for the wheel thickness.
  8. I had no problem fitting the plastic innner wings to my 1990 90 when I rebuilt it on a 300 tdi galv. chassis (it was originally a 2.5TD). I didnt make any modifications to the wings but the refit did involve putting a 300 TDI fuel filter and coolant header tank in place of the originals.
  9. Have a look at this thread. I bought one of the Rightclick controllers recommended by Aragorn, and I've been very impressed with it.
  10. Sorry, final line in the last post should not be part of the quote but I can't work out how to edit it with the new forum software.
  11. The instructions for checking the camshaft end float on page 75 of the 300 TDI overhaul manual say:
  12. There's actually a lot of really quite complex physics going on in an arc weld, and if you really want to understand it then you'll need a decent text book: I recommend this. However, you don't really need to know a lot of it for most hobby welding - simple rules like making sure that the workpieces are as clean as you can make them and the pieces to be welded are straight with consistent thicknesses and gaps will get you a long way. The main thing which makes the difference is practice. Lots of it. Start with something simple and get that working reasonably well, and then change a parameter (thickness of material, filler, angle of torch, current, voltage, whatever) one bit at a time to see what difference it makes. The point about current vs voltage machines at this level is that with TIG and MMA the main parameter which is controlled by the welding power supply is current, whereas with MIG the main control is on voltage and the current is varied mainly by changing the wire feed speed. This means that you can use a power supply which is designed for MMA for TIG and vice versa but you can't do MIG with it unless it also has some sophisticated voltage control. There are multi process machines (I have one of these, and it's an absolutely superb piece of kit) but they are expensive, and in practice the TIG capabilities are fairly limited in comparison to a dedicated TIG PSU such as this. MIG is without question the most useful process for anyone doing motorvehicle repair/fabrication work, so buying a MMA/TIG machine isn't actually a very good investment, and unless you are prepared to pay upwards of £750 then any multi-process machine is going to be compromised in some way. A better investment for most people would be to spend as much as they can afford on a MIG only machine. Basic features like a removeable Euro-style torch and good solid wire feed mechanism will be more use than TIG or MMA capability.
  13. The air receiver makes a pretty effective dryer if you set it up properly. I have a 120l vertical tank. Incoming air from the compressor comes in towards the bottom and the outlet is near the top. There is a Beko autodrain on the bottom of the tank. There is a coalescing filter on the outlet upstream of a filter/regulator unit which sets the outlet line pressure. In over 10 years of use, frequently fairly heavy, I have never had to drain the coalescing filter or the regulator bowl - all the water is condensed out by the expansion of the air into the receiver.
  14. Not a clever plan, there is a fair chance the bung will become a projectile if you do this. One of the reasons for having a drain on the tank is because you need to open it to make damn sure the tank is empty before you do any kind of work on it.
  15. Sounds as if the silver paint is not working, or you have not yet bridged all the gaps. Check the resistance of each track. You'll need needle point probes to do it properly. Put the probes at the ends of the track and if you don't measure a resistance around 2 - 3 ohms then leave one probe at the end and put the other one in the middle of the track. Keep halving the track until you get a low resistance, and the break will be between that point and the one you tested previously. Repeat the process until you've identified all the breaks in all tracks. Mark the breaks with a felt pen on the glass so you know where to clean up and apply the conductive paint. You only need a miniscule scratch to break the track, so you may well not be able to see the gap which is causing the problem.