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nickwilliams

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Everything posted by nickwilliams

  1. https://www.gov.uk/government/news/consumers-urged-to-check-vevor-products
  2. This thread is now 15 years old. It would be nice to think there have been some improvements in the technology since then, although I fear that's probably not the case! I slung my Abnox side handle cartridge loaded gun across the yard last night in frustration at it yet again failing to mange more than one nipple's worth of grease before it stopped pumping. What's the current thinking on good and reliable greasing technology?
  3. Over the last ten years or so, I've managed to destroy five of the standard Denso 300TDi arcon pumps by using them for this. I've tried lubricating them with grease, PAG and mineral oil and both by having a facility to squirt oil direct into the inlet end of the pump and by having a mister dosing oil into the inlet -coming air stream. I have to admit that I've usually been doing a lot more than just airing up a set of tyres: multiple sets is more common, or I've been driving air tools such as a nail gun for fencing or using it for blowing optical fibre down a duct. On every occasion, sooner or later the pump overheats and seizes up (usually fairly quickly followed by a loud squealing noice and failure of the drive belt in a cloud of black smoke...). So, I'd be interested to hear from anyone who really has managed to get this working in the long term with one of theses Denso pumps. Before I swapped the 19J engine for the 300TDI I had a Sanden compressor which worked without any issues for some years, but it needed a custom mount made to fit it to the engine. The 300 TDi has the mount ready and waiting so it seems a shame not to use it. I suppose it would not be too difficult to make a thermal cut out which would disengage the clutch when the pump reaches a pre-set temperature, but my favoured solution is to use the air compressor off a Merlin.
  4. Does anyone have any experience of this: https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product/defender-300tdi-red-booster-clutch-assist-servo-kit/ Or maybe if not this specific product then any feedback on the supplier would also be useful. I’d be interested in how it compares with this: https://www.paddockspares.com/clutch-pedal-assist-kit-defender.html Apart from being 20x the price!
  5. Response from Simon (who is on moderated posts since he is a new member here):
  6. I'm posting this for my brother, Simon, who has recently taken delivery of a Series 88in Station Wagon re-build project from my son, Zak. Simon has actually owned the vehicle since the 1970's and it's the vehicle I learned to drive in. However, it fell into disuse around 1985 or so and has spent the intervening years slowly dissolving away in a field. Then, a couple of years ago, Simon came to an arrangement with Zak for Zak to re-build it onto a galvanised chassis with view to getting it roadworthy again. To briefly summarise the (much longer) account below, the problem is that the engine runs for about 15 minutes and then stop abruptly. Simon has tried lots of tests and substitution of bits such as the injector pump but none of them have made any difference. We're now looking for ideas of what to check next. Here is Simon's account of the problem. ---------- 1. Background Land Rover Series 2A 2.25 litre 3 bearing crank diesel, vintage 1980 ish, rebored and new pistons. Bottom end unchanged at rebuild. Probably needs a new oil pump – oil pressure low (20 psi) with engine at running temperature. Engine is fitted in vehicle (88in station wagon). Reconditioned DPA pump fitted, timed using the recommended jig and the procedure as per the Rover instructions. Injectors checked and re-fitted as serviceable initially, though events superseded this and they have since been replaced. Coolant level in radiator is normal, oil level in sump marginally low (but needs replacing). 2. Symptoms Engine starts OK, not eager and needs heater plugs but then it always did. Copious blue smoke clears after 5 mins or so. Runs at idle for about 10 mins then you can hear the idle speed slowing. Over the next five minutes or thereabouts idle gets slower and some black smoke from the exhaust. If you rev the engine with the throttle during this phase the engine revs rise very slowly despite snapping the throttle open (poor throttle response), when you let go again the idle speed is lower until it eventually peters out. Engine stops abruptly as if it has seized (no compression bounce). As quick as I can insert the crank handle and turn the engine with no evidence of seizure. Cylinder head temperature is 70 to 80 deg C measured with non contact IR meter. During the latter stages of running the engine loosening the fuel feed banjo at the DPA pump shows a shower of fuel, there is no evidence of lack of fuel. I have fitted transparent pipes to the fuel supply, no bubbles. Engine will restart though reluctantly – needs a lot of throttle to keep it running. Allow engine to cool back to ambient, then engine will restart exactly as per the above, idle for the same time, shut down in the same way. Absolutely text book fuel starvation! Except there is plenty of fuel at the DPA pump top banjo. Driving the vehicle shows normal level of power for the first five mins or so after start, then rapidly diminishing until the vehicle won’t propel its own weight (low ratio on level ground!), then the engine dies as above. 3. Investigations/activities tried so far - Advanced injection timing. Initial setting as per setting gauge sounded retarded, so DPA pump advanced till it sounded right. Improved the initial start up, also reduced the quantity and length of time blue smoke emitted from exhaust. May have contaminated the engine oil with diesel fuel running it with the original setting for the injection timing. Injector 4 not contributing (much) to running – exhaust manifold at cylinder 4 cold for several minutes after start. - Checked fuel pick-up pipe in tank for leakage/blockage. Nothing to see. Fuel tank is open to atmosphere. - Changed fuel pipe from pick-up to lift pump for flexible hose. No change. - Changed fuel filter. No change. - Re-piped fuel lines looking for obstructions. Checked connections are exactly as per published diagram in the work shop manual. Fitted transparent piping looking for air bubbles. Nothing. - Swapped engine mounted fuel lift pump for electric one. No change. - Reverted to mechanical pump. Measure fuel delivery pressure at fuel filter outlet, steady at about 2 psi unchanged as the engine slows and stops. Obviously this pressure collapses once the engine has stopped. - Swapped rebuilt DPA pump for another of indeterminate parentage (ebay purchase). Set the injection pump timing (position) as per the pump taken off. No change. - Check cylinder compression pressures cold and hot. Results as follows: Cold 1 = 23bar, 2 = 31 bar, 3 = 30 bar, 4 = 24 bar. Hot 1 = 23 bar, 2 = 30 bar, 3 = 29 bar, 4 = 26 bar. So effectively unchanged. Cylinder head temperature (IR probe) measured 20 degC cold, 85 degC immediately after engine stop. Pressure checked by removing all four heater plugs, and connecting the compression tester with an adaptor into each glow plug port in turn. - Removed exhaust and inlet manifolds check for obstructions (rag?) Nothing to see. - Ran engine with exhaust loose at exhaust manifold (is the exhaust blocked?) No change. - Checked injection pump actual timing. I bought a Gunson piezo sensor based adaptor to trigger a timing light from the injection pulse. This showed the engine running solidly at about 12 deg BDC injection start, not 15 deg as per workshop manual, measured at tick-over. As the engine heated up and slowed the light flash got less reliable, though what flashes it did trigger showed the injection timing didn’t change as the engine slowed. Not sure if this shows the sensor/trigger operation is not 100%, or is this evidence of a poor injection pulse (indicating no fuel?) - Changed all four injectors for reconditioned ones. Testing of the originals elicited the comment that 3 was OK, 1 and 2 were “not the best”, and 4 was useless. Fitting the replacements made the blue smoke emission immediately after start better (less of it) and for less time, but has made no difference to the engine shut down after about 10 to 15 minutes. - I have a minor leak on the injector pipes 2 and 4, but slackening any injector pipe causes the engine to run rough and slow. Exactly as one would expect. Haven’t tried this with the engine hot and slowing. - Removed thermostat capsule hoping to prevent engine heating up. No change, though the measured cylinder head temperature was much the same at engine stop as with thermostat fitted. - Ran engine with radiator cap removed. Plenty of coolant circulation, no evidence of bubbles at the radiator header tank. Engine stops after 10 – 15 mins exactly as above. 4 Suggestions for Further Work My understanding is that it is possible to measure the DPA pump transfer pump fuel discharge pressure by removing a blanking bolt on the side of the DPA pump. If the DPA pump is being starved internally this could cause the symptoms seen. But how come I have two the same? Can anyone confirm how to do this and that the bolt opposite the body bleed screw is the right measurement port? Would need to make a special banjo fitting – no problem. - Take cylinder head off, looking for evidence of scuffing in the bores pointing towards momentary seizing. It’s an expensive experiment when I have no real evidence of seizure. - What are symptoms as of a cracked cylinder head? Note no evidence of bubbles in the radiator whilst running or water contamination of the engine oil. - Engine breather generates considerable fumes once it reaches running temperature. I can’t see why this should cause it to shut down, but any thoughts? ----------------- I'm of the view that this problem need solving by measuring various parameters such as fuel delivery pressure, injection pressure, exhaust temperature etc until we understand exactly what's happening when it stalls. It's not going to be cured just by swapping bits until it works properly. So, suggestions of what to measure and why it would help would be welcomed. We'd welcome any further ideas for things to check, or any other insight!
  7. Galvanising on the inside of the tank will be stripped off by the fuel, usually in little flakes which will block your fuel filter (if you're lucky).
  8. Does that mean it's 250mm across the outside of the flanges? I made mine out of 100 mm, and I can confirm it's not really strong enough for use with a 35t ram, never mind a 50.
  9. The chequer plate was necessary because the floor panel and the side panel had started to part company. The base plate is made out of 5mm plate and the side is made from 3mm and they are welded together along the joint (it was the first piece of aluminium welding I did when I got an AC/DC TIG more than a decade ago). The assembly is pop rivited in place with mudguard washers on the back of the pop rivets to stop them ripping out. There is a steel bush held in place with a single M8 bolt which is the anchor for the inboard end of the door stay. The bush is fixed and the end of the door stay has a slight clearance on diameter and thickness so it rotates around the bush as the door moves. The M8 bolt is screwed through a piece of 3mm thick stainless and the 5mm plate and held tight with a flange nut. The stainless plate is in turn pop rivited to the aluminium to give it the maximum possible rigidity. No, they were some I just bought from Struts-R-Us or something similar I found on line. Yes, the wind caught the door when it was left open in a high wind and just ripped the piston out of the strut. Cue one oily puddle on the floor and a door straining at the hinges trying to fold itself right round the side of the vehicle! I think the main reason to be using a gas spring is because it makes opening a door which has a spare wheel hanging off it much more manageable. I don't keep my spare on the back door so the novelty of having the door spring open when I opened the latch was fine for a while but got a bit tedious eventually since the door either had to be shut, or fully open. It's pretty good, actually. I have had it blow closed once, I think, but that was in a real hoolie. Because it has a defined open position with a detent it doesn't bounce around as the wind gusts like the gas spring used to. Of course, the Disco door is a lot heavier than the Defender rear door, but that just makes the positioning of the Defender door more positive. One thing which at first I thought would be a nuisance but I've come to like is that the Disco strut has a half-way open position which is surprisingly useful for example if you want to leave the back door partially open when the vehicle is in the garage drying out. Another major benefit of the Disco strut is that now I'm of an age where standing on one leg for any length of time isn't always a recipie for staying upright, it's clearly capable of handling the strain of using the door to lean on when changing before or after a caving trip!
  10. At risk of being accused of hijacking the thread, coming back to the original topic, I have managed to destroy two gas struts (one and then another) when the wind caught the door, so I gave up on struts and instead fitted a rear door stay out of a Discovery.
  11. I'm not familiar with the layout of the wring on a TD5 era vehicle, but the headlight wiring probably runs down both wings between the outer skin and the wheel arch liner, just as it does on earlier vehicles. Unlike earlier (pre 300TDi era) vehicles, however, the wiring on a TD5 uses Econoseal connectors instead of the bullet connectors used on earlier vehicles. Splicing into a loom with bullet connectors is a doddle but your options on a TD5 loom will be more fiddly. I would not normally recommend anyone to use Scotchlock connectors for anything, but in this case your only other option is probably to cut the main beam feed wire, slide some self-adhesive lined heatshrink over the one of the cut ends, strip back the insulation on both cut ends for about 20 mm and twist together and then solder the two ends plus the connecting wire before slidng the heatshrink back and shinking it. You wil then have a joint with one wire coming out of one end and two out of the other. While it is still hot, take a pair of snipe nosed pliers and squeeze the heatshink between the wires on the side where there are two and this should help the heatshrink to fully seal around both. You'll need a heatshinking gun to do the job properly, and it will still be fiddly as hell and awkward to get at pretty much everywhere except possibly behind the headlight bowls. Using a Scotchlock connector will be much, much quicker and easier, but they leave a hole in the insulation when they are removed and if you use the wrong size you can end up damaging the original wiring. I would fill the inside of the connector with silicone grease (or Vaseline) before you fit it, since although it won't repair the holes, it will do a lot to keep water out of the joint, which is the usual reason why they fail.
  12. Download the TD5 electrical diagrams book (widely available on the web) and that will help you identify which wires do what.
  13. The cranking current on my 300TDi is about 160A, but that number doesn't really have much to do with the rating of jump lead connectors since connectors are rated on the basis of continuous current whereas the starter current is rarely applied for more than a few seconds. If all you are doing is providing a boost to a vehicle which has a battery which is flat (e.g because someone left the lights on) but is otherwise known good then your jump leads don't need to be very big because all you need to do is put enough charge in the flat battery for it to be able turn the engine over a few times so it will start. The flat battery will help keep the system voltage within reasonable lmits and there isn't much chance of damaging any electronics on either vehicle. However, if you are dealing with vehicles which require a significant amount of cranking to get them started, and/or which have a knackered battery, then you will potentially be drawing the full starter current through the jump leads. In these circumstances you need at least 25mm sq cable, and preferably bigger. You also need really hefty crocodile clips on the ends of the cable, and a good joint between cable and clip. Sizing of the cable in these circumstances isn't about the current rating of the cable, it's about keeping the circuit resistance as low as possible so that the starter motor on the vehicle being jump started spins as fast as possible. IMHO jump leads should be made out of the thickest wire you can reasonably afford. Mine are made out of 35mm sq welding cable. I use these connectors: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/industrial-power-connectors/3826215/ which I think are superior to Anderson connectors since they have a bigger contact area (and hence a lower contact resistance). I've got one connector mounted on the front of the seat box so it's easily accessible with the passenger door open, and a second one mounted on the box which covers the back of the near side rear lights so it can be used with the rear door open. I've found this combination means that you can pretty much always orient the donor vehicle and the one being jump started so that my 2m long leads will reach far enough (although I do have a 2m extension cable as well if I need it). Having the connectors inside the vehicle protects them from weather and road dirt, which otherwise would cause undesirable corrosion on the contacts. Both connectors are linked back to the battery in 35mm sq cable and can be switched on or off using a battery isolator switch mounted on the seat box.
  14. I have heated screen front and rear and heated mirrors. They are all just controlled through a 30A relay by the rear window heater switch. This means they have the voltage sensing relay which stops them working unless the engine is running, but there is no timer - and in winter I frequently leave them on permanently. I also have a 100A alternator. I'm not saying thiis the 'right' way to do it, but it works for me.
  15. I've managed to knacker 4 aircon pumps using them for onboard air - and that's with mist oilers etc. I think the fact that my system runs at 15 bar may shorten the life. But yes, this is mostly about solving an interesting technical problem. Makes a change from sitting at a computer writing e-mails, which is mostly what I do in the day job. As I said in my OP, I don't really want to fill the compressor with black oil from the engine sump. An external pump is certainly a possibility but we have a rotating shaft and some space so having a crack at making a circulating pump sounds like an interesting possibility.
  16. I'm hatching a plan to adapt one of these to use as a compressor for onboard air on my 300TDi. This will involve making an interface plate to provide a mounting which matches the aircon compressor mounts on the top of the timing chest and and a shaft which links the belt driven electric clutch off a standard 300TDi aircon compressor to the splined socket on the compressor. The compressor requires a pressurised oil supply to lubricate the con-rod bearings and the piston. It has ports to allow it to be fed by the Merlin's oil system, and I suppose I could plumb it into the 300TDi oil circuit, but that would mean pushing diesel-filthy oil through it which I don't much like the thought of. Instead I plan to give it is own oil supply using a small pump driven by the shaft. I've looked at using the rotor parts out of a 300TDi oil pump - they are cheap, easy to get hold of and I kind-of like the symmetry of adapting 300TDi parts for this job. However, in practice the pump is far too big for this job, and a shaft to match its rather peculiar double internal keyway drive arrangement will be a bit of a PITA to make. Obviously I can do some looking about for something smaller but it would be a great deal quicker if someone here knew of a suitable alternative to the 300TDi pump. I think I'm looking for something with an outer diameter around 50mm and ideally with a single keyway round shaft drive about 20 - 25mm dia. Has anyone got any ideas where I might find a suitable sized pump rotor set which isn't too spendy?
  17. Well, I am delighted to report that, in no small measure due to the assistance provided here, Zak and Oli went on to be judged the over-all winners of this year’s Mongol X Rally. Furthermore they have raised over £1000 for Parkinson’s UK. There are pictures of the exploits on Instagram - search for Team No Parkin Thanks to all of you who contributed Nick
  18. Best wishes for a speedy recovery from Zak, Oli and I.
  19. You can't replace the cable or lever operated valves on your digger with simple solenoid control valves. Normal solenoid vales are either open or closed and that will make operation of your digger impossibly jerky. If you convert to electric control you will need proportional valves which require a variable current to move the valve to any position between open and closed. Decent quality proportional valves cost hundreds of pounds each, and you also need a lump of fairly fancy electronics to drive each coil (and there are usually two on each valve). Having said that, the electronics does not need to be costly. When I made the variable speed control for my hydraulic winch, I used a pair of PWM motor control modules I bought on e-bay for about £10 each. Actually, there are ways of reducing the jerkiness of simple solenoid controls with flow restrictors, sequence valves and other fancy bits and pieces, but the hydraulic circuit rapidly gets seriously complicated and needs a fair dose of black magic to make it work properly.
  20. Message from the boys: Please post a thank-you on the LR4x4 forum. We made contact with Stuart Hart who was great and really helped us out. He gave us a radiator, rocker cover and lots of good knowledge. Thanks to everyone who contributed ideas. Zak and Oli (Team No Parkin’)
  21. Bear in mind that halogen lights in particular are very sensitive to supply voltage, meaning a small drop in supply voltage at the terminals has a big effect on the light output. Consequently, it's really the resistance in the circuit supplying the bulbs which is the important factor, not just its ultimate current carrying capability. Big fat wires and larger terminals have a higher current capacity and also have a lower resistance, which is good, but every connector or joint you put in the wiring between the alternator and the headlamps adds a resistance which is probably equivalent to several metres of cable. Using well over-spec'd connectors and cable, and minimising the number of joints is important if you want to get the maximum amount of usable light out of your headlamps.
  22. Sorry for delayed reply, @Peaklander. I spent most of yesterday fitting an external battery charging socket to the 90 and wasn't paying a lot of attention to the internet. Unfortunately they are posting most of their updates to Instagram which I do not do, but this morning they are in Redruth so they must have sorted something out. I know they met a bunch of LandRover enthusiasts while off-roading the Mini to get to one of the rally check points on Friday night and were offered use of some workshop space. I'll find out more later today. Thank-you to everyone who posted advice or contacts above: even if they've got themselves sorted right now there's plenty of time for something else to go wrong! I'm actually doing my best to ignore the problem: they are 22 and 23 and should be quite capable of sorting themselves out without needing me to organise things for them. My original post was made at their request, which is fair enough, but it's up to them to follow up on anything offered here. As a parent it's easy to spend far too much time worrying about how to keep your children out of trouble (or how to help them out of trouble if they get into it), but when I think back I realise that when I was their age I was organising caving expeditions in central America and pretty much completely out of touch with home for months at a time, and I survived (albeit not entirely unscathed) so worrying about this pair makes no sense at all.
  23. This is kind-of OT (although the extended story includes a Series III Lightweight and a Haflinger, but I don’t have time for all that today) but I’m not a member of any other vehicle related forums (fora?) so I’m hoping the LR4x4 collective can come up trumps. My son Zak and his cousin Oliver have this afternoon set off on the Mongol Rally X - it’s a cut down version of the Mongol Rally proper, the full rally having been cancelled for the last two years due (mainly) to Covid. They are raising money for Parkinson’s UK, a cause close to my heart because Oliver’s father and I both have the disease. Their chosen mode of transport is a classic Mini, and they are easy to spot because I think we can be fairly certain that they are currently the only red Mini on the British road network with a 16ft canoe and a set of waffle boards on the roof.. For those with Instagram, their page is here: https://www.instagram.com/noparkinplease/ They set out from home in the middle of the Peak District at lunch time today heading for South Wales and by 16:30 had made it as far as the other side of Stafford where they had to stop when the Mini overheated. At the time of writing they have made it nearly as far as Builth Wells but the radiator on the mini is knackered and they could really do to find a replacement. So, the question for you all is do any of you know where they can find a classic Mini radiator in the South Wales area this weekend? The best way of getting hold of them will be to post a reply here, and any ideas or recommendations will be gratefully received. Thank you. Nick.
  24. The glow plug relay which is fitted to later engines contains a timer which continues to run the glow plugs for about 10 seconds after the engine has started. It's there to reduce cold start exhaust emissions, it has nothing to do with starting the engine. Keeping the original glow plug wiring would be simpler, and you would be very foolish IMO to consider changing the wiring without first getting the original wiring to work. If you fit a relay you will also need a different ignition switch (PRC8230). It does sound like you have a faulty switch but if you want to prove it, attach the negative lead of your multimeter to the chassis somewhere, and then, using a sharp pointed test probe, measure the voltage at first the battery +ve terminal and then at every accessible terminal or connection between the battery and the glow plugs. Measure the voltage both with the switch in position 1 (ignition on) and position 2 (glow plugs on). Somewhere you will find the difference between the two voltages is more than about 6 volts. The fault is between that point and the previous point where a measurement was taken and the voltages were within 2 - 3 V of one another.
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