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LRNZ

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Everything posted by LRNZ

  1. I've had a look at the various forum topics, and see that there is some information regarding Disco 2 modulators, but not a lot about the TDI series 1. I have a 1998 Disco TDI and the ABS Modulator is in Fault. The part number is ANR 5263 Full Markings WABCO 003 1997 478 407 003 0 Does anyone know where I can buy an overhaul kit? or is this a case of simply phoning around scrap dealers for the right part? I'm concerned that these are already a bit old in the tooth and an overhauled unit may be better. I'm based in New Zealand cheers and thanks
  2. Hi Gents, appreciate the feedback, I'll send Turners an email - I can source the ancillaries with little problem, thanks for all the help. cheers P
  3. I am looking for a new engine for my Defender 300tdi, appreciate it is a long shot but does anyone know where I can purchase one new in the crate? I am based in NZ, so will be shipping International, so an exchange unit is not ideal. Alternatively can you give feedback on the various engine re-conditioners in UK. Thanks V much P
  4. This is a view of the turbocharger to intercooler hose, very hard to see any defect from the outside. The inside was completely blocked. Worth checking if you have a 300TDI
  5. Gents, Thanks for all the advice, I pulled off the 90 degree elbow between the turbo and the intercooler inlet pipe and found the hose to have collapsed inside , causing a large balloon which blocked all air flow. I'll post a photo soon. The exterior of the hose looked fine Thanks V much, engine pulling great now I have replaced this hose.
  6. Hi I have a 1998 300tdi 110, and the engine has started to loose power intermitently, and emit thick black smoke. This typically occurs once I have slowed down to go round a corner. Stopping the engine and restarting seems to get the vehicle back to normal. Vehivle has over 400,000 KM on engine, so is a bit worn. Thinking it may be the turbo - any ideas? thanks
  7. I had a similar problem and it was the electric fuel pump that had failed. The car would loose power going up steep hills etc. The check engine light would come on when accelerating and then clear when foot lifted off accelerator. If the check engine light is coming on at same time, you should be able to read the fault code. cheers and good luck
  8. Thanks for al the help so far, I have already fited the TD5 gauges to my 300tdi -fantastic upgrade, so no problem with fitting the electronic gear into the TD5 box. The seller did advise that the box was for the TD5 was for a post 03 vehicle, and that I would need a high/low switch IGM500011 and adaptor wire YMQ105170 if fitting to an earlier vehicle. Got the serial number of the D2 box (BAF24, 1.211 Ratio 4wd, 70D105072G) Not sure if it has diff lock fitted. Best regards P
  9. This is a great place - will chase up the serial number of the D2 box, in mean time have to admit the TD5 box is looking good. Cheers P
  10. Thanks James, The price is around 250 quid which for a new box seems good. Not sure if the 300 tdi would cope with the increase in ratio using the Disco? however engine has been rebuilt and is good as. Might just pick up the TD5 and take it from there. All the best P
  11. Thanks for the replies, I've also the option for a Transfer box from a Disco 2 IAB500090, same deal, new parts ex store. Might be worthwhile picking the disco up, as it has higher gearing - will do a bit more research. Thanks for help so far
  12. I have the option of obtaining a new Defender TD5 transfer box part no. IAB500104 (LT 230 code 57D), the vehicle I have is an early 300 TDI, with standard R380 gearbox and 22D transfer case. Is it possible to utilise the TD5 transfer box on my vehicle? The price looks reasonable, and as I am in Kiwi, may be a handy thing to have on hand. Ratio is the same at 1.410 Cheers and thanks P
  13. I often get a squeak when pulling under load, and I tend to cure it by cleaning the crankshaft pulley grooves with a toothbrush. Dust/grime gets in there and makes the serpentine belt squeel. Check all your pulleys for dirt cheers P
  14. I have a difflock locking bar, whilst it may not be the cheapest, I've used it to change many belts and I think its worth the money. Makes the job a breeze Get yourself the correct tool, or alternatively the whole kit, and you will be changing a timing belt in no time. cheers P
  15. The injector pump on the 300tdi is a modified Bosch VE. This has a basic vane type fuel pump inside. This allows the injector pump to continue operating, even if the lift pump has failed. Performance may be down as injector pump needs to draw the fuel from the tank, as opposed to having a constant positive pressure supply to the inlet. Engine may operate easily without any load, but loses power when put under load. Puff of black smoke usually indicates excess fuel in the cylinder. Can you turn the engine over by hand? cheers Paul
  16. I'd tend to agree with Vulcan Bomber, and advocate checking the half shafts for wear before delving into the differential. Chance are that the drive flanges are getting worn. The splines are much more susceptible to wear than the differential. Best to start with the simpler components. One thing is that the differential backlash on a Defender is quite large. cheers P
  17. I would recommend a 300tdi, for reasons of parts availability etc. Plus the faults are well and truly known now, and the engines with care will last 500,000 KM. Ido however have a Turbocharged LD28 (Nissan) I fitted to a series 3, around 10 years ago, and with the Ashcroft High Ratio Kit for the transfer box works fine. Bit noisy and the radio well its a case of sing as you drive. With the large amount of 300tdi engines availale on ebay, I'd pick that ahead of the 200. The engine mount change is pretty straight forward and not one to be avoided. Brgds Paul
  18. I fitted Discovery seats to my series 3 land rover, these were bolted in place however I still wanted access to the seat box for storage - albeit not for a battery. I Simply cut a new access window at the front of the seat base, rounded edges etc and use the area for my jack, and tool kit etc. You could fit the bateries under the seat as suggested and also fit the conectors for jump starting if concerned. If you want to be able to access, you could fit a window as above. I would also recommend completely sealed batteries, that way once they are fitted, you don't need to top them up etc. I guess you'd probaly thought of that cheers Paul
  19. See if you can find a box from a 300tdi Defender - check ebay. TD5 box is diferent length etc than 300tdi. The bellhousing makes up for the mounting diferences between the 2 engines td5/300tdi in the engine bay. cheers Paul
  20. Gents, It is possible that the flywheel has not been properly installed after it has been removed. Then there is the chance that the clutch pressure plate is warped. Finaly, (a rare one) is that when the engine has been refitted, it was not 100% engaged/aligned on the splines of the input shaft. The clutch drive plate is not aligned properly when the engine is refitted, and using brute force and a degree of ignorance, is pulled into final position on the shaft using the engine to gearbox mounting bolts. I have seen this done on a 300 tdi. The new clutch plate splined shaft deformed over the input shaft of the gearbox, and engaged only on a small area. The resultant force on the gearbox input shaft forced the shaft rearward into the gear box......... When fitting an engine , it should simply slide the last 20mm or so onto the input shaft, without the need to jack it home using bolts My advice would be to take it back to the garage that fitted it - pronto Cheers and good luck Paul
  21. I fitted a set of RD128 lockers to my Rover Diffs on the 90. I can email through a fitting guide if you don't have one. Its a PDF from ARB The pipe is a bugger, I had to fit mine two or three times. When you finally come to fit the diff into the axle casing, rotate the input pinion slowly when installed and feel if the air pipe is catching on the ring gear. Its possible for it to get bent when putting into the casing. Also its better to have the pipe nearer the mating flange, as per the red line in the photograph above. cheers Paul
  22. Its been mentioned above, but I would also highlight that it seems as if your thermostat is stuffed. You would not necessarily notice it in hot climates, as engine would run warm, however when there's ice and snow, the engine will struggle to heat up with full coolant flow. If you replace the thermostat and still have no improvement (they are pretty cheap), try flushing the heater core with fresh water. You simply disconnect the inlet and outlet pipes and hold a water hose to one of them. This should flush out any carp. You should not have to sit with a rug on your knees! cheers paul
  23. Hi Bo, I recently renewed the turbo on my 300tdi. When I purchased the replacement turbo, it did not come with the 2 exhaust side manifolds, only the central part of the manifold and turbocharger as a single part. Despite being quite aprehensive, the old ones were easy to remove using an engineering vice, and large stilson. If you do not plan on reusing original turbo central manifold, place that firmly in the vice, and using a well padded stilson, gently break the seal between the side manifolds and the cenral housing. This should come apart without too much ado. If you do have issues, it is possible to purchase complete replacements. Reassemble using a small smear of exhaust paste This should seal when engine is run up to temp. Cheers P
  24. Gents, That article was ideal, I'll set the new lockers up with between 0.1 and 0.17mm backlash, and a single segment of pre load on the carrier bearings, and see how it all looks with the Prussian blue. Cheers for the help P
  25. Hi, I am busy fitting a pair of air lockers to the front and rear diferentials of my 1995 300tdi (SWB). I have measured the backlash of the original pinion and ring gear, and it comes in at 0.17mm. - Only working on the rear diff at the moment. This feels to be very slack, does anyone know the correct backlash specifications as per a new gear set? I have checked my manuals but can't find any details. Its a standard Rover Differential unit, with the later - larger carrier bearings. Also does anyone know the amount of preload that should be used on the carrier bearings? Thanks for your help. P
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