sharp'i's

In answer to MartinK's post by removing it I suggest you are saying you removed the ACE pump and fitted a 'blank' pulley blanked off the reservoir (or emptied it) and changed the cooling fan pulley. Then you changed both of the anti roll bars for solid ones. Seems like quite a lot of work to not have to do a lot of work. Your help on this would be appreciated as I doubt I can easily get the parts out here in Penang, Malaysia. My problem is a leak near the rear off side wheel arch (between the block and the wheel arch) but I haven't yet located the leak precisely. Changing one pipe if that is what it is sounds (note sounds) relatively easy. Thank in advance.

Gromit thanks I guessed as much using logic that thicker oil cold rating must be OK in a very hot climate. SPendry yes well I registered in West Sussex but now live in Penang Malaysia. Who knows where next.

I live in Malaysia and have my 1999 TD5 Discovery with me. I recently changed the oil and because I couldn't find Castrol Magnatec 5w/40 multigrade oil I used 10w/40. The manual says only 5w/40 but my rationale is it is always hot here and never goes below low 20s (in my experience) so something more viscous cold? would be OK. Any views to this both for or against?

Thanks for your answers. I think I was given a 'P' gasket by a reseller in the UK which i have lost moving to Malaysia. So i need a new one anyway. Would prefer not to take the turbo off but have to relocate the new AC compressor. Local Chinese mechanic mentioned a filter on the water line then proceeded to show me in an exploded view diagram o metal oil filter in/on the side of the block. What's that about or is it earlier version (300i). To do the work (change the water pump) the local price is RM80 (Ringetts) or £16 equivalent. Fuel is 40p a litre. Some benefits to being here

I have a Discovery TD5 (1999) 57K miles only and have recently relocated with it from the UK to Malaysia where it is hot all of the time. I am only in possession of a Haynes how to fix it manual for the vehicle not a workshop manual. I have a slow loss of water which from stains near the water pump I assume it is leaking in this area. The start of the stain is below a flange forward of the water pump hose connection boss under this cast flange (making it difficult to see the precise origin rather than the area of) that maybe part of the housing/structure to which the power steering pump and the water pump are mounted. Are there two gaskets associated with the water pump one for the rear cover and one for the water pump casing (into which the water pump fits) to this housing/structure? If not I am at a loss as to where exactly the leak can be coming from and therefore how to 'mend' it. I had the foresight to bring a water pump and cover gasket with me (amongst other spares) as everything for a Landrover is expensive here. But the Haynes manual suggests taking the turbo off and the oil centrifuge which needs new gaskets which I will source in the UK. But I do not want to start the job without all of the bits I need which means I need to locate the origin of the leak. Can anyone point me to an exploded view diagram of the water pump/steering pump assembly so that I can be sure of what the problem is, please. Or throw some ideas at me. I suspect that the forward 'O' ring may be passing water which means it may not show up at the rear water pump cover plate. The pump seems fine but it is low mileage but 12 years old! Thanks.

MartinK - thanks for the reply I will give them all a look at. Already looking at Rimmer Bros for an SS exhaust system.

Who is best for spare parts for the discovery TD5? British Parts or another supplier? I need a clutch for the future and I am not sure whether to stick with the present dual-mass arrangement or go for the traditional single piece flywheel and two part clutch. I will also be taking with me discs, pads and caliper overhaul kits and a set of hoses for the cooling system. Fairly new to Land Rovers but I do know some charge the earth for what others don't. If that makes sense.

Thank you for the contact out of which came another who actually did their work. And he is a mobile workshop. I will report back. Who is best for spare parts for the discovery TD5? British Parts or another supplier? I need a clutch for the future and I am not sure whether to stick with the present dual-mass arrangement or go for the traditional single piece flywheel and two part clutch. I will also be taking with me discs, pads and caliper overhaul kits and a set of hoses for the cooling system. Fairly new to Land Rovers but I do know some charge the earth for what others don't. If that makes sense.

Thanks for responding but nothing shown.

I am off to live in Malaysia in the next 6-8weeks. I am taking my 1999 Disco 2 TD5 with me as it has done just over 50K miles and is too good to pass on. I am also able to import free of duty and taxes as one of the conditions of my visa. I have a few issues that I seek advice on. It needs air-conditioning as Malaysia is hot and humid (tropical) all year round. Can anyone recommend an installer of an air-conditioning system using land rover parts. I imagine it is somewhat intrusive an operation so do not want any cowboy doing it and would not be to happy about OEM parts. I am already nervous about the inability for me to use the warranty (one says 12months another 24months) as I will be out of the country. Is the normal radiator fitted as standard in this country suitable for Malaysia? Also who would anyone recommend a company that supplies spare parts for me to take? That could be Land Rover but some parts are not available anymore. Thanks in advance.

I have finally got around to trying out the TD5 without the MAF sensor connected. It ran a lot better but still had the missing at around 3000rpm but not so bad. This could be just under using the diesel engine. However as I say the engine seemed uninhibited and ran with more power. What does the MAF sensor do as it is still disconnected and it works fine? Is its purpose to cut the fuel supply when your foot is off the accelerator? I may try changing the fuel filter before I do anything else.

Old Hand - thank you I will try what you have suggested. sharp'i's

I have a similar problem. My 11year old TD5 Disco (only 52k miles) starts and runs superbly. But if I take it out on to a dual carriageway under acceleration in 3rd and 4th it starts to miss horribly at just below 3000rpm. In 5th it becomes gutless under load above 2700rpm. Yesterday coming back from the East Midlands in 5th the vehicle would not accelerate over 70mph but would do more and above 3000rpm downhill. What does this tell me. 1. There can't be a problem with the fuel pump. I guess it either works or doesn't. 2. It cannot be the dual mass flywheel/clutch disintegrating (as I have heard can happen) as it was smooth when doing 3000rpm down hill (that was the intended check to get it to 3000rpm). I like the possibility of fuel filter or separator being clogged. What normally happens with the regulator? Does it fail or go out of calibration? I have no error messages. Could it be that it just does to much around town stuff and too little hard work? Any help would be much appreciated because I do not want to get into the grips of LR dealers or local garages as they will happily take my money changing things that are OK. sharp'i's