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Souster

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Souster last won the day on October 27 2016

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  1. The clips Mo linked worked far better for stopping pad rattle on 2 of my 90's. Really worthwhile fitting!
  2. Hi guys I've just purchased genuine land rover door seals for the front of my TD5 90. And the doors have to be slammed to make them close properly on the 2nd click of the latch. As soon as the old ones are refitted, doors close absolutely perfectly. Sadly, the original drivers one is in a poor state, else it would be refitted. I'm familiar with the striker adjustment, and its adjusted as far out as I'm willing to accept. Has anyone else had this issue with new seals? I was under the impression that genuine seals were my best option. However, they aren't working well on my 90. I take it puma seals are the same as the older ones. Cheers guys
  3. Thanks mate. So do they eliminate the rubber buffers on the puma and just use AZT500020? I take it AZT500020 can be used on older models?
  4. Hi all Currently got the van panels off my defender 90 td5, and when looking to replace the odd seal etc I noticed there was 2 types of bushes for the rear tub to van panels. I need to buy some replacements as my original rubber ones have had it. But there are 2 kinds, the later type seem easier to come by and cheaper. Anyone used the newer type and can report they worked? The type that was fitted https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/338553 The newer type https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/AZT500020 Cheers guys
  5. Hi guys. Didn't want to start a new thread for this. But im just wondering what to lubricate the internals of the lock with. I've cleaned it out and its bone dry now, been in the dishwasher infact. Would grease be ok in the mechanism and graphite lubricant in the lock barrel itself? Thanks
  6. Thanks everyone for your help posting. I'm going to give removing the housing a go, hopefully won't be too much of a pig. And replace the seal behind. Also going to fit a low coolant alarm in the header tank while the coolant is drained.
  7. Thanks alot guys. I will bare that in mind. I find the constant tension hose clips on the TD5 always seem to seep slightly. Is there any reason why they didn't fit worm drive hose clamps? I'm thinking of changing to those, any reason why I shouldn't?
  8. Hi all Got to do the water pump on my TD5, Slight leak from the weep hole. Which brand would you go for, QH or pro flow? (Are genuine LR Quinton Hazell?) Anything else I should do while in there? Do all the seals that are required come with the pump? Any tips welcome. Cheers
  9. With other faults such as interior lights diming and your fuel gauge.... my limited knowledge would say look closer into earth issues. Make sure the bulkhead earth is clean, and also the one next to the ECU. Most important one is the chassis to transfer box earth. I had all sorts of issues in the past from bad earths. Lighting and what i thought was over heating. All sorted with good earth's.
  10. Thanks Ralph. Unfortunately no luck their. Figured the spring out but not sure on the rivets or bolts
  11. Hi guys. Happy new year I've split the rear door lock on my TD5 to add central locking. My first question is, Pop rivets or small bolts to reassemble the two halves of the safari lock. I'm concerned about either sitting proud from the lock instead of flush. As a result causing, causing the lock to sit off the back door and cause a leak. Secondly, The small spring that sits behind the small internal lever. Arrowed in the picture below.. the centre of the spring isn't meant to sit in the centre of the hole of the casing is it? I'm hoping it sits off to the side else I've got no chance of getting it back together. Thanks guys. Would like to hear what you have used to reassemble.
  12. Sounds like it could be earth faults. Start by cleaning up the one on the transfer box and chassis. Then bulkhead etc. All earth points can be found at the bottom of the page in this link. https://www.lrworkshop.com/electrics/defender-1999/fuse-boxes-earths-and-headers Hope that helps
  13. Hi guys Has anyone made a substitute for the rather expensive peace of foam that fits between the dash and bulkhead heater duct on pre puma models. I realise it's just foam, but unsure of what thickness to buy if I make my own. I've got the dash removed on my td5 90, and want to make sure I dont have any heat escaping as I need all that I can get haha. thanks in advance
  14. Hi guys Sorry for the late reply. Injector cleaner and try bump starting it is definitely worth a try, it's difficult with it being not road worthy at the moment, but worth bearing in mind. The fuel system purge process hasnt worked in the past either. However, air was heard when the fuel pump was engaged today. So, I managed to get a mechanic friend to put a diagnostics machine on it today. The MAF sensor was reading next to no values, so that's scrap. But the strange live data that we observed was the ambient air temp reading 150°c. Anyone have any ideas why this would be? Somehow got a funny feeling the sensor isnt faulty; but could be wrong? Lastly, I replaced the air bleed valve in the filter housing. The new one could only blow one way, but the old I could blow either way. So I'm hoping that will help. Any ideas where I should go next please? Thanks
  15. Hi guys I've got a 2000 TD5 95k on the clock. Purchased late last year, and since buying it I've had starting issues when it's been standing. Anyway, I've got it in the workshop at the moment for some body work. But the starting issues are causing it to be be a PITA. Let's say its left for a few days, when I go to it, it will crank andcrank and misfire, try again and it will run but miss for a few seconds. Then runperfectly! This happens every single time, but today it cranked untill the battery was getting low. Since buying it alot of things have been done to rule out the starting issue with no success: *New OEM injector harness *New genuine injector o rings & seals *New fuel/air/oil filters *Crank sensor removed and cleaned *Previous owner fitted new filter housing, also checked duckbill valve and replaced copper washers * glow plugs removed and tested * FPR rebuilt with OEM parts * New starter motor * EGR Blanked and removed wiring * Red plug cleaned several times * ECU Opened up to check and clean * All earthing points cleaned and additional added for engine * certain of no diesel in the oil * wastegate freed off * can hear pump running when key isturned * cleaned inlet manifold sensor * done the bleeding sequence a few times Once the engine is running, I cant really fault the sound of it. No smoke and seems to start back up pretty well. Although i havent checked this repeatedly as at the moment it hasnt had a good run, and thought it may not be too healthy for theengine. Only thing I will add, it's got about 1/4 tank of diesel, but that shouldn't makea difference should it? With my minimal knowledge and experience its seeming like air in the fuel? Can anyone help with this please?Unfortunately I cant get it to a garage fordiagnostics at the moment. Thanks in advance guys
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