Paddy

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About Paddy

  • Rank
    Old Hand
  • Birthday 01/01/1950

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  • Location
    Ireland

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  • Interests
    Landy's, fishing, shooting. Guinness!

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  1. Link might help plus a diagram
  2. Undo the level plugs and with a bit of cable dip each box to see whats in them. You'll still have to deal with the leak though at some point.
  3. Also see this thread for fuse explanation and MoD90 post on fuse ratings. May explain why you have a 35 amp fuse for a 15 amp continuous rating.
  4. Go gas. Paintman sums it up. Plus, get plenty of good light on the welding seam to start the weld. Plenty of first class advice here http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/
  5. Once you get the battery sorted and assuming its diesel, it would be worth checking the glow plugs are all ok & I assume you are running on “winter spec diesel” so that it’s not waxing, considering your location and temps. Both relevant to ease of cold starting.
  6. Thanks for the input. I’ve decided for a quick fix of a brush screwed to the underside of the lintel sealing the door as it goes up and down. Boxing in the inside of the roller plus another brush is on the ‘project list’.
  7. Never thought of boxing it in from the inside as i was fixated on draught proofing from the outside. Good idea, thanks.
  8. I’m looking at ways of draught proofing an 8ft.wide internal roller door. There are small draughts from the sides that I can live with, main draught is from the top where the door roll is, must be nearly a 2” gap from the lintel with the door down. Looked on the net for ideas and a 50mm deep brush along the underside of the lintel and just touching the door may help. Any other ideas/solutions or practical experiences ?
  9. If its any help,,,,,Part 21 is what I used to get the plastic pipe into the engine compartment then flexi hose to the air filter canister, I blocked up the canister drain as well. Plate where part 21 enters through wing is to cover where a clansman fitted (moved to other wing)
  10. I’ve had moderate success with careful and gentle heating of the UJ with a hot air gun, seems to reach a point were the grease is just soft enough to push through.
  11. 2 points you might consider. If you go for a flat roof look at fibre glass. Longer life, easy diy repair. Include a pit, down side is yer mates will wont to use it more than you!
  12. Problem cured.. (but not solved !) Injectors out, serviced, back in and all is well. Service guys reckoned nothing wrong when testing them so just cleaned them up. Maybe it was a speck of carbon, not 100% sealed (new washers fitted) or just one of those things.
  13. Same as Mutley really, not a lot of help but, ...each year I have to wade through winter floodwater and the bowls fill with water, despite Vaseline and then silicone on the bulb housing. I drilled a 3 mm hole in the bottom of each lens to let the water out. When needed I clean the bowl with tissue. Last winter I was in the carp when having to drive the flood in the dark and both bulbs blew when the cold water hit them half way through the flood. Had to use a hand torch out of the window to see my way home for half a mile. For this winter I’ve now got a light bar on the roof so no headlights on until I’m through the water....
  14. Grand job..