Cheesy

I used a 90 degree exhaust elbow cut and welded to give this path, the elbow is 76mm and so is the silicone joiner, at the plenium I cut a strip of the steel tube and split it so it fitted over the spigot, put a little bit of RTV at the split and clamped the silicone joiner over it. The manky pod filter is being replaced with a TDi filter which will connect to a snorkel

I cant be much help, but is the LED solid because the output signal for the EDIS is different to a direct output signal?

So I have come into possession of an 065 ZF4HP24 that was swapped out when the flex plate broke, it needs a new pump gear and bush but other than that it looks pretty good. At the moment I have a stroked 3.5 (to 4.5) running on MSII extra with the HP22 and an LT230 as well as a couple of spare HP22s. Now after pulling the 24 and one of the 22s to bits there seems to be a few different options for reassembly. First the 24 internals with the 22 output shaft, brake/clutch and governor into the 22 case with the 22 valve block and 24 front end. Alternatively it seems if I can control the electronic valve body I can almost just swap the tail shaft housing and cut down the output shaft and use a floating spud shaft. The compshift setup is well out of my budget, has anyone used the mega shift or did that project die? any other opinions or suggestions for doing this conversion?

I had two that leaked down, were ok when running but made it very hard to start... not very easy to diagnose either when you are trying to set up the fuel table for starting. Test them with a gauge, if they hold pressure and regulate to the correct pressure they should be fine.

Not that Im every going to do anything that uses these rules, could you not start with a more modern Rover traction control system instead of diff locks? and there is also the Borg Warner transfer case that was in the RRCs which has some sort of ATB type centre in it

There was a conversion in the states using a D60 centre in the Salisbury housing with 35 spline shafts, from what I cant tell they had custom stubs (bigger dia), the hub was bored for bigger bearings and then obviously 35 spline shafts and drive flanges

It looks similar ish to mine, a well worn 4.5 (square bore stroke) so a few degrees lower on the top end, it could do with more at 50kmh area looking at it now though and the 500rpm row is pretty pointless

Yes you are right about the absolute pressure bit, is you distributor from an SU setup? there is a note in the Des Hammill book about being careful using these units as you end up with full vac advance at idle

Without going through it all again (to remember what goes on) we dont have to compromise with two interacting mechanical systems to get an output that works. Also looking at your numbers wouldnt the vac advance have a full 8 deg at 15kPa going to nothing at some higher kPa as opposed to starting to add advance at 15kPa?

One of the downloadable manuals has a good trouble shooting section to go through, it makes it a lot easier. I got mine going then fixed some rust after which it wouldnt go again, turned out a bit of metal from the grinder got into the fuel pump relay so the contacts wouldnt close properly, it did still click though! took a while to figure that one out

My 2c from playing with mine before I ripped it out for a MSII, mine was so rich it would only just start and run. First I disconnected the cold start injector, it isnt really needed, I found mine had an extra resistor soldered between the temp sensor and gnd to alter the fuel (leaner I think), taking that out didnt seem to do much. The temperature sensors can fail and make them go rich. They can loose prime on the oil pump as well so check the oil pressure

2ml would be plenty for this

The other thing to consider with this, is that the reason it is not running could well be that the ignitor on the distributor has died, it is pretty common (I bought mine not running with exactly the same problem and replaced it with a Jaycar universal ignitor). There was also a kit to relocate the ignitor near the coil so it doesnt get hot

Have you done the basics and checked the plugs?

Cant remember the dizzy wires but it seems it is quite common to bypass that relay, mine was like that (slightly tider wiring though) before I put a MS in it. There was also a little inline resistor on the coil that yours seems to be missing. I think the tach is run of an alternator signal on these. There should be a power wire to the coil that is live when the ignition is on, makes it easy to figure out which one