ChrisW

Guess I should have RTM Mines doing it as well!

Currently running a 1998 L series diesel and have been looking for an IRD out of the TD4 as it allegedly has a final drive ratio closer to the rear diff than the earlier Freelanders. Have searched various forums to find out how to tell the difference and there was one posting that mentioned mph/1000rpm So my L series currently does approx 25mph per 1000rpm which means at 50mph in 5th the engine is doing 2000rpm. I have nothing to compare this to apart from an article I found on the TD4 and it mentioned the revised final drive ratio of the IRD giving 24.3 mph per 1000rpm which seems to suggest that mine may possibly already have the later IRD fitted So question is can any of the L series owners confirm what rpm their engine is doing at 50mph in 5th gear?

Have read through most of the posts on this and other forums regarding the "Three Amigos" and carried out all of the tests and checks they suggested. Looks like the problem has been found, took it in to MDP Landrover in Raglan and their diagnostic kit picked up the O/S/F ABS sensor not working however this had tested OK with a multimeter at the plug on the inner wing. I now have the pinouts for the ABS module under the seat and tested for continuity between the sensor and ABS plug and there is a break in the wiring loom somewhere So the good news is I don't need to buy anything just need to find the break in the wiring loom

Heard about the brake light switch mod, mine is an early one so only has the 2 wires, it was faulty but have managed to fix it Have booked it into a local LR specialist to get the fault codes read, fingers crossed

Since buying the FL the ABS light has been permanently on, need to get it sorted for MOT so started investigating today. Checked all fuses and connectors plus the warning bulbs for the TC and HDC, found a dodgy fuse and now have all 3 lights on and will not go out. There was another ABS module in the boot when I bought it so plugged this in and no banana Checked the resistance on all 4 wheel sensors and they are around 950Ohms and fluctuate when the hub is rotated so they look OK. Tried to remove the sensors from the hubs but they are seized in there. Removed the HDC switch as it had been suggested that the wires can rub and short out and found the 2 wires were ripped from their connector so fixed that as well. Next on the list is to remove the drive shafts and check the toothed ring on each to make sure it is intact and clean off the ends of the sensors. Had a look on the LR Rave CD and it lists a chart for diagnosing the warning lights but seems a little useless as almost every fault seems to result in the 3 lights illuminating :roll: So besides checking the driveshafts does anyone have any other suggestions as to where to look :?:

Now have the lowdown on plastic and steel dowels. Rover used to use steel dowels on all of their engines but ran into trouble as they could sieze to the head due to dissimilar corrosion. To fix this they went to plastic dowels however ran into problems on the K series and TD5 in that the head could shift if it overheated and returned to steel dowels. Seeing as my plastic dowels were shot and couldn't get any I have fitted the steel dowels from a TD5 lump. Turns out the original plastic dowels from the TD5 and L series are the same so the steel dowels are a straight swap

In the process of changing the head gasket on my 2L diesel Freelander. Have had the head tested, skimmed, valves and seats recut so head is ready to go. Was going to refit yesterday but discovered the locating dowels for the head are plastic. Seem to remember hearing/seeing/reading somewhere that these were replaced on later models with steel ones, but there was nothing in the headset. So does anyone know if later dowels were steel not plastic

Have trailered it home, gave it a good check over yesterday and now have a to do list and shopping list Bodywork is good, head gasket has definitely blown which I was expecting, interior needs a good scrub and there are a few non functional bits like the sunroof and drivers window. Engine starts on the button and seems to drive OK with no untoward knocks clunks or rattles

After looking round for ages to find a reasonably priced 2l Diesel Freelander I will be picking up my new motor next week. Snow has done wonders for the resale value of not just Freelanders but all 4x4's and everyone seems to want one Its gonna need some work, it is pressurising the cooling system so gonna have to roll up my sleeves when I get it back and sort it out

Nope, nothing wacky just that if for example I found a cheap turbo off a 420/620 then would be useful to know if it fits Been looking at 2 Freelanders, one has a blown Turbo and the other has a damaged reverse gear

Hi Been looking at a few Freelander 2L diesels with issues and was wondering if parts from the cars in the Rover range were interchangable? 1. Is the turbo on the 420/620 Rover car the same as fitted to the 2l Di Freelander 2. Is the gearbox from the 420/620 Rover car interchangable with the 2l Di Freelander Thanks

Most proper motor factors will make you a brake pipe with fittings and flare the ends for you for a few pounds, use a bit of string to measure the length of the old one.

IIRC when making your own Bio Diesel there is an allowance of 2500 litres a year before duty must be paid, if you are buying Bio Diesel from a manufacturer then they are liable to pay the duty to HMRC so would be included in the purchase price

Having trawled back through the posts on this forum and searching elsewhere but I am still none the wiser, been trying to clarify when things changed and what ratio was fitted where Have been saving bits of info from various sources as I come across them and so far have this lot, not sure if its gonna help or confuse things even more "The earlier diff fitted to the Freelander was TVK100380, due to premature failing by the problems created by the viscous coupling siezing this was superceeded to TVK000180 which has larger journal bearings and is thus stronger." "Early IRDs (lets say the one with wrong diff. ratios) was LR part no: TAG000020 and replaced by the TAG000230. Bad news is no one can tell us for sure which is the one that LR fitted to our vehicles and also the detailed differences between the two IRDs, but we suspect different (right) diff. ratios in the TAG000230 and maybe stronger bearings." "It is the drive to the front wheels that is changed. The later IRDs have higher gearing to the front wheels than the older ones, bringing the overall front gearing closer to the overall gearing of the rear, hence the VC is "less locked" and works less and hopefully doesn't fail." "In my L series diesel - 100kph was about 3200 rpm with the old IRD. With my new IRD 100kph is about 2700 rpm. The downside is that overall gearing is higher so offroad in first I don't quite have the pulling power I once did but this is not an issue for me."

You can make your own Bio Diesel from WVO or SVO, the process uses Methanol and either potassium or sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) which are mixed together, added to the veg oil and heated to allow the reaction to take place, it then has to have the waste products removed and washed then dried, you can buy the kit to do the process but there are loads of instructions on the internet on how to make a suitable rig, try this one, no pictures but covers what you need to know. Biggest problem for most people is getting hold of WVO, most commercial food places buy their fresh oil and their supplier takes away the old stuff but if you have a contact for WVO then you could make your own Bio Diesel for less than 40p/litre