Deej

For greenlaning there's North East Laners, a very active club with friendly people http://northeastlaners.proboards.com/forum Always lots of trips out (including occasional P&P now), regular pub meets etc. Dave

19Kg

Here's a link to the build pics for my woodburner, might give you some ideas: http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/DJDeejUK/slideshow/Wood%20Burner Edit: Just had a look through the pictures again and realised there are some funny ones in there as well. Such as six foot flames shooting out the flue when I fed it some used engine oil...

I put it in the rear door of my disco to stop it getting dragged through the mud. I don't actually have the towbar fitted but I need the socket for a trailer board when the bike rack is on. I don't think the movement of the cable in the door is much of an issue as the rear wiper and central locking cables are subjected to this anyway. As are electric windows, speakers etc in the other doors. [/url]

The standard propshaft has been fine on my lifted Disco but I don't have castor correction arms. By correcting the caster following a lift the UJs will be forced to work at a greater angle and will fail sooner.

I've not seen the motor you're referring to but I would imagine it's very large for its 20KW output? Industrial induction motors are normally designed to work at 50Hz/3000rpm which is very slow, limiting power density. Traction motors we design at work can spin at ten times that speed making them much smaller, which is far more practical when you need to fit a 50KW motor in a small car.

Save that for the MX-5, a Land Rover will want full fat! p.s. Not to be construed as actual advice

Don't really have any ideas but your posts always make me laugh!

That was my mate's traditional Mongolian Yurt under construction. The piles of ash woodshavings made great kindling for the log burner! If you're interested: http://www.yurtleyurts.co.uk/

I have a Blaupunkt THB 200A in my disco and it does a decent job of making the soundsystem more rounded. I think it's a great compromise between size and power, and is ideal for me as I didn't want something to that would eat into the load space. http://www.bluespot.co.uk/car-audio.aspx/thb200a-speaker The cable tie install is a bit of a bodge but to be honest it works well and was really simple.

Sounds a bit more feasible in that case. They obviously have skill, just a shame it's not being put to good use. Maybe after being locked up for 10 years they should be forced to work for free as real mechanics.

Just re-read your posts and unless I'm being thick, the Defender was stolen in the morning and found later that same day with a new engine already? I'm aware that an engine swap can be done in a few hours if you know what you're doing, but it seems very unlikely it would have been completed before the police found them. So does every other feature of the Defender match with yours? Almost as if the police have made a mistake and it's actually someone else's. Edit: Didn't mean to sound negative, I do hope it's returned to you!

The only problem with larger units like that is there will be a fair amount of external circuitry to add in, as the components like filter capacitors become too large to fit in an integrated package. This would probably produce the best end result but there will be more work for you to do. The 1.5A integrated part will be so much easier to work with as it's essentially a direct replacement for a standard 3 pin regulator. Just a shame there isn't one in a higher rating.

I also agree about going with a switching regulator. Linear regs are simple/cheap but not much good when you need to drop a large voltage at high current. Even with a 4deg/W heatsink, which is already pretty big, it would theoretically hit 64 degrees above ambient. On a warm day that means your metal plate would be well over 80 degrees which would hurt if you touched it. If the heatsink is in an enclosed space it will get even hotter.

Excellent work