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  1. Does it run if you take out the oxygen/lambda sensor? The exhaust or catalyst could be blocked.
  2. Have you ran it without the alternator belt on? Had a similar noise, which turned out to be the rear bearing in the alternator. The noise was resonating through the block making it sound like it was from the engine.
  3. In the very same vain, that a certain supplier was ridiculed by the masses (I believe the power of the internet, had a lot to do with it). They eventually ended up going to the wall. Perhaps copying others designs will only end up with them being ostracised, and in the same boat! (owner of Gwyn Lewis kit via Llama)
  4. Is yours the later type with pipe going into the bearing carrier end? Mine had a problem, that was a bit of fun finding! It would engage initially, if the vehicle had been stood for a minute or two, but after disengaging and re-engaging the air would leak past the seal? The problem, was caused by the bearing locking peg (mine was the C' type lock). As the pipe carrier moved with diff revolving the peg would press down (only slightly) on the pipe carrier and press the seal.
  5. Had the black chequer plate on my old Disco. Looked quite good, and hid the multitude of sins... (clicky piccy)
  6. The intank pump is just a lift pump. So will only prime, and then switch off until the engine is started/running. Were the pumps Fuelparts? If so they seem to be quite a problem! Did you change the fuel filter after pump failure, in case any swarf from the pumps got into the filter and have blocked it?
  7. May be more to do with saving face. The vehicle may have been in a very unsafe (mechanical) condition, and he didn't want to admit it! The fact it's modified, may have been the reason for the "pull in".... Being dangerous/unsafe, well that's a different matter.
  8. It is diesel in it, isn't it? Eedjit: sorry cipx2, hadn't noticed, you'd asked the same question.
  9. Depending how much manual work you wanted, but 1 relay and a separate clutch pedal switch (you could tie into the handbrake lever switch). You'll need a fused battery live (60A~) into a 4 pin ignition relay (pin 30) (Ford do a large terminal one) from the relay (pin87) into position 2 of the ignition switch. Fused feed to a dash switch then onto relay (pin86) and earth the relay (pin85) through the handbrake switch or ideally a clutch pedal switch. That way, if clutch is depressed or handbrake released the vehicle will loose ignition feed and should stop. (figures are guesstimated you may require far less, it depends how much load there is on the ignition switch) VERY basic diagram:
  10. ATP electronics do a reconditioned ERR5198 for about £150..... ATP electronics
  11. OT re home repairs but relevant bit of info for garage repairers... Mercedes and BMW(soon) are changing their systems to counter the freedom to repair rules. As there are so many diagnostic systems available now for these manufacturers, and they're loosing work hand over fist (I'm not surprised). They've now stopped supplying any security related items to Joe public or "The Trade." So if you need keys, immobiliser modules, or any ECU within the car which is linked to the security system, it MUST go back to the dealer! This is acceptable within the EU directive as it's "security related"....
  12. I've heard, but don't quote me, that the latest Firefox update has been causing browser issues. Perhaps those using other browsers could speak up, if the problems are still evident?
  13. If it's a manual (ie not EDC-Electronic Diesel Control), it's just for the EGR control unit. (EGR only operates when hot). So leaving it disconnected wont affect performance.
  14. Looking at it, it's very similar to the one fitted to my van. The idea, in the event of the either starter or auxiliary battery being flat, during cranking, it closes the circuit to allow the other battery to start the vehicle. (effectively a self controlled jump start system)
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