Marco

Hi, Unfortunately I cannot remember, I swapped the LT77 for a R380 shorty box (Ashcroft) a little later. Very nice mod. Vehicle sold some years back and showed up in the United States last year! Cheers Marco

Thanks for the replies. Ordered all bits and pieces and downloaded a workshop manual. Planning to do this clutch job within a few weeks / next Month.

Thanks for the reply, amended links and they do now work, for some reason just copy/paste url gives an additional space at the end creating a 404.

Hi, my 2007 2.4 Puma Defender (93.000km) has started to use clutch fluid. It does not leak at master cylinder or at the pipework so expect it to be the slave cylinder. To my surprise that one is fitted in the bell housing and only accessible by dropping the gearbox. Not an easy job but also not impossible. Main question is which parts should I buy to replace all bits inside the bell housing. I did find these ones: LR052128LR UUG500040 LR031188 LR048731G Do I have them all or should I get some more (or less) bits for this job? I did find this helpful video.. In general: the Puma clutch operation is heavy, much heavier than at my 200Tdi. There is also some clutch judder when cold. This could be caused by the leaking fluid IMO? Alternatively to the DIY job I can bring the car to a (Land Rover) workshop but expect costs to be very high. Cheers, Marco

Hi, I'm looking for an auxiliary tank for my 130 Defender (2007 Puma) to increase it's range. The only one I can find up to now is the (old) Frontrunner one which I have fitted to my old 200Tdi. Any other ideas? Cheers Marco

I've checked during the weekend, no problem at fuse box so I did take out the cubby box and center panel of the seat box. No problem at reverse light switch connector. Bypassed the reverse light switch and got the light working. So clearly a faulty switch. Have ordered the part here: http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=151127 Thanks for replies.

Unfortunately no bad earth and not corrosion, checked multiple earth options (wire, body etc.) and cleaned socket, checked directly on connector etc. Expect it to be something like bad switch. Need to take out the cubby box..

Checked but bad earth is not the problem, both in socket and via a separate earth on vehicle body I do get the same low glowing of the diagnostic pen. The voltage without running the engine is 11,9 Volt so guess something is wrong with the Amperes, just not enough current flowing to the light the bulb. Next step will be checking at the reverse light switch.. Within 20+ years Landy ownership I've never come accross such an small (frustrating) electric problem..

Hi, small problem with the reversing light on my 2007 Puma 130. It does not work... But with ignition on and with gearbox in reverse there is some current at the lamp socket. My small 12v diagnostic light/pen will light up but compared to the other sockets (tail lights, indicater) it does not light up as bright as the other ones.. All bulbs tried and no one will light up (nothing at all) so guess voltage is to low. Will try to find a voltmeter for correct testing but in the meantime maybe one of the forum members does know the answer to this problem? Cheers, Marco

Picture taken just now... you can see the shim/washer between caliper and bracket.

I've been using 5mm spacer plates and to align the caliper and discs I've used two standard mild steel M12 washers (between caliper and bracket), guess those are 1mm thick. This has been in place since 2008 without any problems.

The brake pipes on my rear axle are home made using copper/nikkel piping and the right (metric) unions. As far as I can remember I've used the same pipes as the ones already fitted to the drum brake cylinders. With standard pipes you might not be able to reuse the old ones.

That does make sense.... I've build mine without mudshields and with the 'Diesel Jim' style angle grinder spacers. Brakes have been faultless since 2008! Western, just start yours and enjoy rear disc brakes, I did build mine within two days prior a Southern France holiday so it's not that much work if parts are on the shelve. Only fault I did make is to fit Paddock's drilled performance (carp) discs + no anti squeal shims... so driving in Nice was a lot of fun. Right now I do have Mintex discs and LR pads + shims, silent.

Haha, yes that's right, never seen it before!

Identified car as Tonga Green metallic. LRC 904 it's on the VIN plate fitted to the brake servo. It's now my new Landy, nice to have a Tonga green car for Tongasabi Safaris. Only wonder if LR Tonga is pointed to Tonga (Island/Kingdom) or Tonga (people in Zambia/Zimbabwe)