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DDO173

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  1. DDO173

    help

    If its just to start it to get it to a place where they can program in a new fob then its quite easy. Take a piece of wire from 12V+ of the battery to the fuel stop solenoid on the back of the injector pump and secure it using a female spade connector. Then take a nice large rubber/plastic handled screwdriver and bridge it across the solenoid and main post of the starter motor (you will have to remove the induction hose to the turbo to get at it). This will then fire the start motor and when she starts remove the screwdriver.
  2. Dont forget to put into into diff lock if you drop a prop - or you're going nowhere!
  3. Most common vibration are caused by problems with propshafts most likely are the UJs. Dipping the clutch is releasing the drive load on the shafts (and worn UJ) alleviating the severity of the vibration if not removing it completely. Put some chocks behind the wheels and let the handbrake off then crawl underneath and give each shaft a good tug up/down, side-side at either end near the UJs and see if theres any play in the joints.
  4. They will also chew through your wheel bearings for you too
  5. there are 2 pulley sizes depending on year and application of the alternator, so maybe the wrong 1 fitted
  6. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=71684
  7. could be the little plastic 'donut' at the bottom of the gear stick in the top of the box. These can often break up making it stiff or impossible to get certain gears. Relatively easy to see from the top of the box if you remove some interior trim and the rubber diaphram that the gearstick pokes through.
  8. D'oh didnt I read but didnt digest that it was an auto - oh well!
  9. I took the transfer box off the main box, but mainly as I was fitting a rebuilt unit on return. It does however make it easier to handle as not an awkward off centre weight. Depending on how many miles the vehicle has done you may as well put a new clutch (and pivot arm!) in while you're at it - with a leaking crank seal the clutch plate is more than likely contaminated (mine was slipping because of it).
  10. The union on the bracket. Quite common for those to corrode badly there. When i went to change my flexis i realised i did have everything i needed but had attempted to undo the union before leaving it for another day. Next day my foot went to the floor when braking as it had burst due to bad corrosion just about the union. For this reason if it too difficult to undo even with mole-grips I would cut it and fit a new bit of pipe to be safe
  11. Rev counter could be the 'w' terminal being a little loose on the back of the alternator (where the rev information is picked up from) cheack all the leads are nice and tight and secure. Clunking in the drive could be at several points in the drive-train. Transfer box diffs are known to go a little sloppy as are the axle differentials. I wouldnt have thought the input shaft splines are that worn on your MY as it should have the cross drilled input gear but anything is possible! disconnect the props and check all drive flanges for backlash to see where the most is. Trouble is every little bit adds up in series to create a larger overall amount of slop.
  12. Dont take the teflon coating off! If you do it will be sloppy and horrible and also wear itself worse at an alarming rate. They need to fully in line and use lots on clean grease and it will go back.
  13. just found a more clearer diagram here - new there was a better 1 somewhere! http://www.horodecki.pl/rajdy4x4/ABS/Jay%20Beale_%201997%20Land%20Rover%20Discovery%20-%20reset%20ABS%20warning%20light.pdf
  14. Dont need an expensive code reader to diagnose ABS on a 300 disco. It can be done with blink codes and bit of bent paperclip. Blink code description can be found here: http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=landrover_abs_ecu_fault_code_identification Then you need a jumper (paperclip) to short pins 4 and 15 together. Full proceedure instructions can be found here http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=300%20tdi%20abs%20paperclip&source=web&cd=7&ved=0CHsQFjAG&url=http%3A%2F%2Fhomepage.ntlworld.com%2Frichard.martin%2Fdiscovery%2Fabs%2520diagnostics.rtf&ei=KlClTtHXEsSnhAfjpvnxBA&usg=AFQjCNGBx9nJbN9AxdkTgQknmdfRfbQWsQ When I did it last i forget to d/c the abs relayed but the process still worked so its up to you.
  15. The core casing of the LT230 is the same so as long as its a later rather than earlier Tdi transfer box then you will be fine. Earlier ones had corser cut gears and more importantly no crossdrilled input gear leading to gearbox exit shaft spline wear. I have done a few LT230 rebuilds and they are a piece of cake to do. Only thing is you cant order the required bearing shims before hand as you need to measure up for the bearing preload. The overhaul kits are not hard to come by and not badly priced either http://www.shop4autoparts.net/Discovery-2/Gearbox/Transfer-Box/Overhaul-Kits I recommend paper gaskets instead of instant gasket anytime!
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