Highway_Star

P38 has a viscous coupling in the transfer case so you wouldn't lose drive. It's permanent 4x4 like all Range Rovers. VC won't like that much slip and will overheat and give up eventually. If it hasn't already locked solid. Usually when props give up you get some warning in the form of squealing and vibration beforehand.

That'll free up some space in the garage. I initially put knobblys on the steel wheels as I used to swap them on and off when I did a lot of road miles. Now I don't do teh road miles so it makes no sense to swap them to and fro. And the AT's are almost illegal.

I've a set of Vogue alloys in the garage with knackered 205R16 Colway ATs on. On the car are a set of Disco steels with 235/70R16 Insa Turbo Sahara on. What I'm wondering, as I've no intention of going back to swapping wheels again is this. Could I put the Insas on the Vogue alloys and get shot of the disco steels?

The matrix is quite a small part of the heater assembly, whichyou do need to get completely out of the car to work on. However, it it's not necessary to remove all the dash, I know 'cos I've done it. Mine a 1990 Vogue SE 3.9 EFi Automatic. I removed the centre console and lower dash to get access to the heater and ducting. One thing I did find which made it possible to do without the whole dash out was this. The heater assembly was fouling on the transfer lever, it is possible to take the transfer lever off its pivot (I think it's a circlip on memory) which allows the lever to move out of the way, and then the heater assembly wriggled out. I'm not going to pretend to you it was easy, it wasn't! Lots of nimble fingers and wedging yourself upside down in the footwells required.

I'm surprised you couldn't find any reference to this online, it's fairly common. It happened to mine once, warning light on all the time, even with the key out! I changed the diode pack in the alternator, it was about £20 from a Lucas agent IIRC. Did need a big soldering iron and a fair bit of swearing though.

That was my logic too Reiny. HH, the Machos are not too bad on the road, noisy and tend to squirm when booted hard. Cornering is surprsingly good. Insa Turbo's Sahara looks just like the old Macho pattern to me. Now to start looking round the adverts in the comics.

I appear to have destroyed one of me Greenway Machos on the Range Rover Obviously these aren't made anymore, at least under the Greenway name. I've found various lookalikes but wondered if anyone had any real world experience of them? I'm leaning towards Insa Turbo's version purely because it's the only one I'd heard of.

Engine off and cold, fan should spin with finger pressure, there will be some drag. Engine off and hot, fan should still turn but with much higher resistance. They tend to fail siezed. ie the fan turns at engine speed regardless of temperature, and is impossible to turn by hand.

Doesn't the wording say something along the lines of 'likely to cause loss of control'? I dunno about you, but I'd call losing the brake assistance a pretty dramatic loss of control! If you've ever driven a Wabco ABS equipped RRC without the pump working I'd wager you'd feel the same

That's kind of my take on it too. But the manual doesn't illustrate them as prescribed areas. Hence I don't describe or think of them as such in the strictest manner. As we've discussed above, technically they should still fail if corroded to excess or badly repaired due to the body mounts and the brake components. But then again, there's that point about not actually requiring all body mounts intact! I guess this is why this discussion has been going round and round and round for years. Until VOSA issues a firm bulletin on the inner wings of the RRC, it will continue to go round and round and round. Are we bored yet?

Bowie69, correct. But go and look at the diagram in the MOT testers manual for vehicles with separate chassis, the front inner wings aren't marked as prescribed! As I said, there's the catch of all of being within 12" of a body mount etc. As predicted this is going round and round, it has done for as long as I've owned a Range Rover.. Knocking 20 years! There's something in the MOT wording, can't recall it exactly, but it basically equates to not needing ALL the body mounts secure and strong. The ones on the front inner wings aren't carrying anything like the load of the rest.

I've done that before V8David, a few TEC screws and the body mount, with some judicious persuasion from clamps to get it into alignment.

It's a real can of worms Snagger. Thankfully the diagram in the MOT manual clearly shows they aren't prescribed areas. BUT.... a really picky tester could use the ABS pump and reservoir or the brake flexi mountings as a failure point if corroded to excess. PU adhesive has a lot of merit, after all modern cars are often glued together!

It's an interesting one, and a grey area really. In MOT terms the RaRo inner wings are not a 'prescribed area', because it has a separate chassis. BUT there is that catch all about 12" from a body mount etc. Also the inner wing might be supporting items like the ABS pump and accumulator, as well as the brake pipes flexi mounts. The early (I think it was pre '86) cars were bolted.The switch to welding was not for structural reasons, purely cheaper and quicker to weld. It's one of those discussions that can go round and round. My own RaRo has one side that's welded at the bulkhead end, bolted at the radiator end. The other side is fully welded. None of the various MOT testers have ever mentioned it. Personally I'm not really fussed it it's bolted or welded. The body mounts on the inner wings don't carry the real bulk of the body, they only really carry the radiator, wings, bonnet etc. The body shell's real mass is supported by the bulkhead body mounts, rear body cross member mounts and the ones on the inner sills.

Does the light go out with the ignition off? If not, then you've a failed diode in the alternator. You can replace the entire diode pack. At the age of these cars now, it's worth giving the alty a good clean, some lube in the bearings and treating it to new brushes if nothing else.