Niall_CSK

As Deano says, drive it onto ramps if you can, or drive it up onto a Fiesta whatever takes your fancy. The engine temp sensor sits pretty high up and being so easy to get an air lock around there it can read a good deal lower than the actual water temperature, there is a long explanation but I won't right now. If that happens you can cook the engine with the gauge reading low so be careful. It's not unknown for LPG engines to have less heater output than usual due to the amout of heat the vapouriser uses. I have considered putting a small inline stat in the vapouriser outlet but never got around to it so don't know if it would help. Putting them in series I think would probably help but I am just wary of heater matrix blockages, as has been said gunge does seem to collect there, low water velocity and relatively low position. Try to get hold of or borrow an infra red thermometer, great tool for finding hot and cold spots, you can often tell if a radiator is starting to silt up with one.

Be cautious with this, do a small adjustment at a time then drive it for a bit until you feel comfortable. The problem is that they wear around straight ahead from constant corrections in daily driving, the extremities of lock wear considerably less. If you overdo the correction about straight ahead you can jam the box first time you have to go around a sharp corner at more than parking speed with the expected scary results. Tightness at the lock extremes may not be noticeable at parking speeds due to the differing dynamic loads on the steering box output shaft when the axle is more articulated. If you can't reduce the backlash sufficiently without the box getting tight nearer full lock it's time to invest in a new box. Don't ask me how I know this the brown corduroy trousers were due for the wash anyway.

Actually I have heard this argument before and the counter arguments. Upshot I believe from memory is that you can take an LPG vehicle through the Chunnel so long as it is proven that you can positively isolate the tank outlet, which for older installations means a manual shut off valve and the newer ones all have isolation solenoid valves which automatically close with the power off which is part of the LPGA COPII regulations for installers. I can't confirm this myself as I have never used the Chunnel, I did however speak to a French gentleman at a filling station in the Highlands in Aug 05 who told me that it wasn't a problem, he just declared it and showed how the system worked with his certification paperwork and they passed it. LPG is actually cheaper, and I am reliably informed better quality, on the continent than in the UK. Availablity is good too, even Poland in the 90's most highway outlets had it. the only anomoly I have heard of is Spain, where they are more elusive. There is a EU map on sale somewhere, and I did get a copy of a GPS mapping software with LPG stations a few years back but it'll be well out of date by now. If you don't mind the initial expense, cheaper than fitting a Tdi (sorry I couldn't resist that) then you can fit an 85 litre tank in place of the original tank with a 40 litre wing petrol tank which does not compromise your load space and will give you over 200 miles on LPG and safely 80 on petrol. Is this persuasive enough?

I hope you don't regret this Dan, nothing against the tdi but there is a world of difference.

Not very up on Disco's but could it be? I seem to the recall the Disco circular box air inlet is on the side rather than on the end The last V8 filters I changed were the same diameter as the original rubber ends without the extended corrugations, the material was different as well.

I do simply because I know they are the best with LPG, I have seen the proof on a BEAR tester against Champs, Bosch & NGK, and 20,000 miles use on both LPG & petrol & still going strong. Even when the liner slipped and the plug was drenched it still worked. So much as I defend good Brit kit I don't mind giving the Japs a pat on the back when I get that sort of performance and at half the price the Champs were costing in Halfrauds.

Excellent HFH, puts my bad days in perspective Don't feel bad, just think how much mirth & joy you are bringing to the rest of us What is it with women that they seem to think mens hearing is so much better than theirs that we can hear through walls, when you do answer to say "what" the reply is usually along the lines of "I can't hear you from there dear" duh! When I do ask the, to me, logical question "where are you?" the inevitable reply is "here" when I was really hoping for something helpful like 'in the kitchen' or 'in the bedroom'

Who's been hanging around sailors too much then? "Where's this Golden Rivet then, I can't see it?" "It's definately down there, you just have to bend over a bit further"

Ah yes I have heard about that but thankfully never experienced it.

Do all the painting before you put the seam sealer on, zinc ritch primer doesn't do much unless it's in contact with bare steel.

You got it sorry speaking tartan

NOOOOOOOOO! It sounds like the injectors themselves from your description of all the work you have done. You can get your existing ones ovehauled & recalibrated, sorry I can't remember the name of the company off hand. The benefit of that over just replacing them is that they will be able to tell you if you have had a problem with the inectors or not. So if not then you can rule that out. Way out thought but not ridiculous is that your camshaft or rockershaft could be so worn that the engine is not breathing properly. I have opened an engine that was struggling with compression on one back to find that the problem was down to a blockage in the oil feed to the rocker on that side only and there were big steps on the rocker shaft. It's surprising just how much hydraulic tappets can cover up.

Hate to be a prophet of doom but I suspect you may find that the bottom of the C post needs cut back too, after having seen a few, so I suggest you have enough materials to hand for that. Try this technique, butt the parts up and clamp a much thicker piece of bar formed to the curve below it. This acts as a heat sink and reduces the risk of burning through, if you are not over enthusiactic and use a continous spot weld you can end up with a totaly continous weld. Then use the same technique with the backing strip now on the top & starting at the lowest point moving up to give support to the weld as you move up.

You can take it out if you are careful. Remove the support angles screwed on the inside of the frame after removing the remote locking. Cut around the sealant both inside & out with a stanley knife. Turn it over, inside down, on some thick old carpet or a matress, don't tell Laura I suggested that, and press down on the glass outside with as large a block of soft wood as you can fit in. Just work round the edges repeatedly till it starts to move. I helps if it's as warm as you can get it. All that said I don't recommend you try straightening the frame. If it's bent or twisted it will be because of internal corrosion, no you can't bolt a sacraficial anode to it before you ask, chances are you will break what remains of the frame trying this. The only thing I can suggest is that you adjust the catches & striker bolts to get you a bit more life out of it till you are ready to replace it and then replace it with an all alloy one.

If it doesn't have resettable flashback arrestors on the regulators and BP valves on the handset then it's expensive and I wouldn't use a set without them having seen too many explode in shipyards. This is probably as important as anything if you are not experienced using this kit and please don't use them laid flat on the ground, ever seen a torpedo you will know what I mean I believe the law has changed regarding bottles, seem to remember a flash from BOC a while back stating that if they weren't registered you wouldn't be able to get them filled anywhere legally till you did. Means that they have to be exchanged / xrayed after ten years if memory serves me correctly. Have a close look at the cutting hand set to make sure it's the cutting oxygen lever type rather than a lot of cheap asian ones which have a third valve for cutting oxygen, much harder to use. Look at the selection of nozzles for welding to make sure you have some small enough for panel welds, if it's ex structural contractors stuff you might be limited.