Range Rover Blues

P.S. nice looking truck, shame about that dent

IIRC the throttle pedal connects to the top so that when it pulls the butterfly opens against the spring. The second cable has a small collet to prevent it slipping too far inside the outer cable, this connects below the throttle shaft so that it is relaxed at idle and pulled out under acceleration. You can tweak the kickdown a little, as long as the cable isn't slack at idle or pulled to the end of its travel at full throttle, you can effect how sensitive the kickdown is.

Ah yes, all the cars we've had with the rubber coupling weren't lifted. 2 are on air and the other is our family car. The one that gets off-roaded, well very little of it is original anyway. I don't imagine the doughnut likes running at large angles for very long at all.

There are several on e-bay, some claim to be the original, others are probably copies. All the usual warning about buying from e-bay. I've bought one, not had time to fit it so I can't comment.

Yes I bought the timing kit last time I did one. So the alignment mark is a starting position before the belt is fully tensioned. That makes sense, many thanks.

I found the same on my wife's Fiesta. Anyway, there's a guy on E-Bay trades as LEDs for Classic Cars, based in Bristol.. He sells positive earth bulbs for old cars. They are more expensive than Chinese parts, but you get what you pay for, every bulb I've had form him has been, well brilliant really and the stop/tail bulbs have a good difference between the 2 unlike some others I've had. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-POSITIVE-EARTH-BA15S-21W-LED-4014-30-SMD-REVERSING-BACK-UP-LIGHT-BULBS-P21W-/181780495444?hash=item2a52f63c54:g:udQAAOSwPCVX-sTW Some types he sells are even brighter, but they work fine in place of normal Tungsten bulbs. I've fitted them to our RRC and the tail light is now as bright as the stop light was, the stop light obviously much better. Also as some are coloured LEDs you get very RED lights, or very orange if that's what you fit.

Of course the entire body from a '94 car would fit on an '85 chassis with only a little modification. I have seen cars where the later doors are fitted, you need to cut the A and B posts out as these are different, then the doors, front wings and deck panel (below windscreen) are all changed together. Not for the faint-hearted!

On the R380 I machined 3mm off the switch to get it to work. Already it's playing up. I was very tempted to fit a micro switch to the top of the gearbox housing, but like all those good ideas I never have time.

I think Tomcat Motorsport used to make them. TBH I wasn't impressed with the PTFE coated ones, it wears to quickly so in future I'd prefer Chrome ones. That said, Britpart are better than they get credit for these days.

Have you seen how much they are asking on E-Bay these days Range Rover seats, trimmed with purest unobtainium.

On it's own, a vibration could be the flex plate on the torque converter has cracked. It's not uncommon and I think Ashcroft's now make a spring steel one as an upgrade. As a warning, if an old autobox suddenly get some TLC in the form of new oil, the detergent in the new oil lifts ingrained dirt and carries it to the governor, which acts like a centrifuge. It's again not uncommon for this to result in a gearbox failure, such as sticking in second for example, as the governor sticks. So if the box is suffering neglect I'd suggest a couple of changes of oil over the coming weeks, drop the oil without staring the engine too as the muck will settle in the sump.

I had an ARB compressor for my lockers and that had the tyre inflater kit on it too. It worked well enough on the tyres I had. I'd say if the EAS pump was free then give it a go, the EAS system runs at 10 bar, far more than you need for tyres so I think you'll be surprised how effective it is.

I've had 3 Soft dash/300 series Range rovers and i think they should all have the rubber coupling. The problem, most noticeable with the V8, is that when it's worn, repalcing the doughnut alone won't sort it out, there is a bush in the driveshaft to support the coupling, unlike a true Rotoflex. That said, in good condition they work perfectly and are supposed to absorb drivetrain noise etc as already said. Also, having had a 2" lift I'd have to say the Cardan joint from a TD5 makes a huge difference, that was with castor correction fitted though.

Hi Guys. I'm replacing a cam belt that sadly has snapped. I know I should have done it before now but it was still within the mileage window, what I didn't know was that it was not done correctly! Anyway, the engine might have survived and I'm putting it back together but when i line up the pulleys the camshaft pulley wants to be half a tooth off from the timing mark. I remember this happening last time I did one, is it common? any advice of which way to let it fall? there's a photo in the tech archive where it looks to be retarder half a tooth? Any advice would be great, thanks

Try the guys at Remote-Key. All I remember is they are black on the plug in, if I can find it I'll check which wires. I have a horrible fealling they change dependant on model year anyway. I do remember that on the white plug there are 3 pairs, one pair is the starter curcuit, the other is the horn circuit and the third is IIRC power for the alarm/CL