robertspark

I'm not impressed with the scanner, I thought it was good but there are a few niggles that are just making it carp..... I was using it on a phone but found it limited on the frames side, about 1300 any it stops.... I used it on my 8 year old laptop and it was not happy on fine detail mesh..... I got a new laptop, 32g, gamer laptop with separate Nvidia graphics card 8gb (I wish to use photogrammetry which needs to use an Nvidia card, and an i7 processor.... not that flies.... no limits.... scan whatever and without frame limit..... BUT.... the mesh settings you have to run in manual or ot does strange things.... lowers the resolution..... fills holes and applies a back..... but the software does not allow you to save your manual settings for one click processing. when you merge meshes instead of it taking the difference of the meshes to improve the quality... for stuff like holes and features it will literally just merge a cqrp scan with a good scan to give you a carper scan! you also seem stuck using the software so I cannot try another point cloud application to see if things can be improved I also got a mountain of dots from AliExpress as it did not like scanning featureless and textureless chassis parts.... or anything bland (brackets) not convinced at the moment on it's usefulness..... sure if you want to scan it just for a model in blender great.... but if you are planning on making chassis brackets to bolt to existing mounting holes or route an exhaust..... not so sure .... (IE to use it with something CNC like plasma ..... watch this space..... disappointed at present

I have bought bits from here but it has been a while, via the slow boat https://www.riverweldstore.com/collections/trafimet-s45

or there is Nige's magnetic plugs https://www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk/diff_offroad.php not sure if they are available for order or not

plasma comes into its own when you couple it with a CNC table for cutting shapes you design in cad. these days I tend to use a laser diode to cut the shapes from cardboard or paper first to check hole fitment before wasting steel. once I'm happy then plasma cut steel and weld. if you ever intend to use a CNC table later, try to find one with a blowback start and avoid the scratch start plasma cutters. hf start can be used on a CNC table, but not scratch start. hf start can play havoc with your electronics, hence blowback start. blowback start are more commonly available than they used to be I cannot advise on cheap plasma cutters, but the ones sold by r-tech are cost effective entry point to CNC plasma table cutters that are also hand cutters. air quality is important in cut quality and consumable life, oil in the air stream and water are not good. plasma cutting leads to a hardened edge where the cut takes place, it can be problematic to redrill later as it may / will blunt chocolate drill bits, hence the clean up and prep relative to a grinder can be longer if plasma cutting something you want to later do something else with. top side dross, you are generally moving too fast, or the torch is too high. normally leads to poor cut through too. bottom side dross, lots of it and hard to remove is cutting too slow. you will get bottom side dross with perfect cut speed, but is normally comes off very easily (if it's a plate or pattern you can handle, drop it from chest height, flat onto the floor and the dross will mostly break off, otherwise I just hand slide a 1" cold chisel around the back side of the plate very fast and the dross shoots off)

@elbekko how many frames do you get on creality ferret before it says you've achieved the max? I get to 1001 frames, but I'm not sure if it's device dependant as that is on my phone with the app. goes your laptop work with the WiFi bridge? I am awaiting a new laptop that I'm hoping will work better (current one about 10 years old), still runs cad fine, but does not allow photogrammetry (needs an Nvidia GPU with CUDA) I am doing some scans, to fill in the gaps for engine and gearbox mounts to use in freecad. what settings do you run with when you are doing a large size scan? etl/obj/PLT? hole fill? have you tried mixed mode scans, IE large format scans for the overall area, and then medium or small high detail scans for those areas that you may want more info (bolt hole locations), and stitching the scans together?

It is avalve driver and just gets 12v input logic at low current and opens and closes the valves according to the logic. It contains the MOSFETs. No internal information is available as to what the resin block contains but it's something which you could easily reuse to drive your valves correctly so the coils are not overheated with 12v dc

Maybe they (landrover / wabco for the BCM) should have programmed a duty cycle into the EAS controller to limit the number of starts and continuous running cycle to save the very expensive compressor though and lock it out under fault if it cycled too often. Getting a bit offtrack but maybe it's something to consider adding to the microcontroller code. The best explanation of the RR EAS system was I think this one which is worth considering integrating into a microcontroller... Or at least similar... https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.landyzone.co.uk/attachments/eas-system-information-document-pdf.60384/&ved=2ahUKEwjD_dy1yNHoAhXObsAKHSOJArQQFjAAegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw2YdciZpxmIGcLe9yNuiJSt I have also got some pressure sensors (each corner) which I did consider may be useful to determine an off-road situation where one wheel may be loaded but then it's what you do with that information because it would probably be useful with more information such as a 9 axis gyro, accelerometer and magnetometer.... Speed sensor.... Steering angle.... And all of a sudden the code is very complex... and what you want to do with all this info .... Automatically by microcontroller....

True cannot argue with that analysis.

If I ever get my 90 finished (now have a chance + instruction from swmbo as furloughed over virus). I have a set of RR classic front and rear air bags that will clip straight on to the bottom axle mount (just remove the old coil spring mount. For the top of the classic mount I am using the normal shock mount retainer plate modified to accept the air spring clips for the RR classic. And remote spring mounts with adjustable shocks all around (all parts to hand now... No excuse over time any more!) All tubing is 4mm od to the rrclassic air springs. I have a choice of valve blocks.... I have a RR classic valve and driver block (which will save the need for separate MOSFET drivers.... As they are contained in the resin filled driver block) Or the use of some(4) 4 piloted 5 port 3 position 1/4" pneumatic valves 4v330C (although they are limited on air pressure rating read waffle below)... So the rrc valve block may be used in the end Along with 2 proper air compressors https://air-zenith.com/product/2nd-generation-200psi-ob2-compressor-black/ (feeding a 20l (or 25 I forget) receiver (given the LR eas air compressors seem to be a common point of failure.... Followed by valve block seals) The one really good feature of the LR classic and P38 eas was the use of a regenerative dessicant air dryer..... In that when air was released from the airbags it was exhausted via the valve block and then through the air dryer which released any moisture from the dessicant air dryer and made sure that the air in the air bags was dry.... Given being the lowest point in the system without an air dryer you are likely to end up with condensation accumulating over time in the bottom of the air bags.... The receiver will only tap whatever condenses. I am overcoming this by using a dual (as I have dual compressors) membrane dryer arrangement..... One problem with membrane dryers is they bleed air.... Another is air pressure.... They are limited to 8 bar.... Hence they will go downstream of my receiver and I may put a smaller receiver downstream of the dryers with an nrv on the inlet ... Or better would be a constant pressure valve because membrane dryers work best under a constant pressure downstream. I mention all this waffle as maybe there are some nuggets to consider about dry air, valve blocks and compressors. I have another use for the onboard air too hence I wanted some resilience in air compressors each with a 100% duty cycle. No not blowing up tyres... Eas controller via ATMega mini onto a custom PCB (I need a couple so have a standard 14 high current output BTS621 dual high side switch ICs (used in the wabco ABS to drive the abs modulator.... Have open circuit and short circuit protection and fault indication ) and a number of analog inputs.... The PCB is part designed schematic wise using https://easyeda.com/ The code.... I started and returned to the Arduino IDE several times... But have used Visuino https://www.visuino.com/ which is really great visual programming software.... But when your sketches get very big and complex I struggled with the speed as it wa NTS to redraw the wires everytime you move add a wire.... You can turn off the auto wire ... But it just means that when your sketch gets even bigger it just grinds to a halt (I have one sketch which can take 20mins just to load.... ) I am now using XOD https://xod.io/ which is very similar but much more programmer friendly but it only works with Arduino compatible boards (ie a chipset listed in the Arduino family...) Where as Visuino has a vast microcontroller base.... They have also just kindly bumped up the fees for Visuino and launched a PRO version... At more cost that provides can bus interface (which I need) as I am hijacking some other sensors plus it's easier to send data around the network to multiple boards using 2 wire. I'll stick with XOD for the moment. But still gravitate to using the Arduino IDE as well. For MOSFETs, the ir540 is a good (high current plus high voltage plus cheap and available) choice... Plus these are very cheap as a quad PCB module you may want to consider (from memory.... The RRC or P38 valve block is a 7 channel valve block so two of these will work nicely if you don't want to use the standard rrc or P38 resin driver block. https://www.google.com/search?safe=strict&client=ms-android-xiaomi-rev2&sa=X&biw=360&bih=641&tbm=shop&sxsrf=ALeKk00QGM0vmoGnZmb-dX1k8arN6mkN8g%3A1586082169584&ei=ebGJXo7wIdKW8gKOvZ64Dw&q=mosfet+irf540+four&oq=mosfet+irf540+four&gs_l=mobile-sh-serp.3...8077.11096.0.11845.5.5.0.0.0.0.108.471.3j2.5.0....0...1c.1j4.64.mobile-sh-serp..0.2.212...0i30k1j30i10k1.0.ptdD6oa5hEk Interested plus subscribed.

For PCBs https://easyeda.com/ Very cheap very fast delivery (before covid19)

help.... LAND ROVER ERC 9568 / INA F-202171.1 seems NLA??? 47mm of, 24mm wide with an 8mm hole thanks in advance rob

+1

Alaskan chainsaw mill? Used one a bit with oak sleepers, works a treat https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/alaskan-mill-landing-page/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwgOzdBRDlARIsAJ6_HNnhLiya8e80jlw9GhoJvlqr1NPBQZAFvRYRen97wNszPtVg5pcB8roaAgdqEALw_wcB

I've got one similar, very handy. Mine is 20t, and have considered swapping the hand jack for a pneumatic one for about £50, saves the faf when trying to work one handed and other hand steady a stack of old bearing races I use as guides or presses. I normally split the old bearing races and use the inner and outer races. Work well when pressing in New bearing races such as wheel bearings because they are split they are just undersize

Thanks western