nickcc

Any lift from the IRD pinion/ output shaft, if the bearings have collapsed the oil will leak out of the end of the IRD.

Pleased it worked out well for you, wish I could say the same for my Rover 75 with the same lump of rubbish.

If you mean the front propshaft CV joint then you can lever off the metal shield, wash out and repack with normal CV joint grease. I stripped mine down when I replaced the VCU and found that it had turned to a thickish oil, the boot was ok so I repacked it.

The regulator cables on mine had broken on the O/S/F window which jammed the motor and prevented it from operating, do the lights dim (headlights) when you operate the window switch if they do this indicates that the motor has jammed.

Used a product called piston seal many years ago, that didn't worth either. Plenty of info on various forums regards head gasket failure on all the K series engines but have yet to find any magic cures.

At 200,000 miles I'd definitely replace the VCU and support bearings. I changed mine at 106,000 and used Bell's at a cost of £280, I now have piece of mind. If you intend to leave in Mondo mode then you should notify your insurer as this is classed as a modification.

Think we've missed the bit about not having a cubby tool box in the OP post. Have also read that water can enter via the roof rail bolts.

Cost about £80 which also included a flush, reduces the system pressure so may help K series owners. My previous Rover 75 blew the gasket twice, once following all the mods that's why I bought a TD4

Modified door seal app £120 from L/R. Mine still had a wet toolbox even after new door and window seals, ended up drilling a couple of small holes in the base of the toolbox and had no problem since.

Petrols keep the revs low until the cat warms up so it reduces emissions and the diesel freelander keeps the revs low until the auto transmission warms up, no cat just a paticulate filter on diesels.

Automatic with all the mods, EGR bypass, BMW vortex mod and Synergy 2a with Eco in cab switch, round town 30 mpg and M/Way 34 mpg. Loved staying at Loch Ken caravan park back in the seventies, apart from the midges. 55 reg TD4 Automatic F1

Members of other LR forums have carried out the thermostat mod and even fitted electrical water pumps to solve the K series headgasket problems. Have a look on other forums if a search of this forum does not have the info you require. I fitted a new modified gasket with headskim to my Rover 75 but the gasket blew again after 10.000 miles so I sold it and bought a Freelander TD4.

Now that sounds interesting. I'm only looking for a couple of units for my utility room one is just a 800 sink unit base and the other is a tall 600 larder unit complete with doors, the ones I bought were ex MFI flatpacks and obviously returns. No problem if you have nothing suitable as my Wife is looking at going to B&Q (no more ebay)

Luckily i bought it through e-bay via paypal, so its covered, i have had to use this in the past and found it ok, got my money back at least. As long as they don't want the old unit back as return postage is down to you. Just been through a dispute with a kitchen unit supplier. all three units arrived damaged (either before or during delivery) the packaging was non existent just wrapped in thin cardboard. Supplier tried their hardest to get out of refunding purchase price but ebay found in my favour, Still cost me £60 to return damaged units as return costs are not covered and no refund of purchase price unless you can prove they were returned.

Were the VCU mounting bearings genuine or poor quality alternatives, I would do a search on this and other forums for problems related to your supplier before I started changing diffs and possibly IRD's. When you fitted the new bearings did you line them up correctly as this can be another cause of excessive noise and premature bearing failure.