Binnman

More thanks to Monkie and steve b for your contributions. I had a short telecon with the mechanic today. He says the Turbo is leaking oil and that he will source a replacement. Waiting now to hear back from him. Will report back here once I have an update. Cheers, Ron.

A big Thank You to Bowie69, Eightpot and steve b for your replies. Your comments and suggestions are much appreciated, however, as I have left the Landy back to the mechanic for him to sort out, I cannot now do the tests you have suggested. As the smoke initially was really bad, I decided to travel via back-roads, but strangely, at times, the smoke stopped for a while but then restarted... and went away again... and so on, over about 15 miles. And, of course, when I arrived at mechanic's garage, there was little, or no, smoke while it ticked over for nearly a half hour. Sod's Law. But, I had taken some more videos and was able to show him what had happened en route. I'm wondering if a stiff, or stuck, Wastegate might cause the on/off smoke? Am not sure, but the Turbo could be original to build date of 1994. Thoughts?

Just got my 1995 Defender 300Tdi back on Saturday, 21-Jan-2023, after having the Head skimmed by Westward Precision Engineering (Ireland)and Head Gasket replaced with new by my mechanic. Initial start-up was clear. However, a short 20 mile journey yesterday (Sunday) and the smoke returned in spades. Unfortunately the short video I had hoped to post is just a tad too large to post here at 25MB but I took another shorter one which is attached. The smoke is substantially worse once revved up and is quite similar before the recent repairs. I don't have an issue with the work that was done as I knew there was a H/G water loss, but it is disappointing that the smoking has not stopped. My mechanic felt that there was no appreciable wear in the bores, so, what now? Appreciate all thoughts on this. Ron. Exhaust Smoke 2023-Jan-2023 .mp4

Thanks Mo, Reb78 and Western for your comments. The work-in-progress continues:- I've made up one loom to see if I can have an All Warning Lights test with Posn.1, which switches off on Posn.2 and it works. So now there are ten more mini-looms to make up; well 12 actually as I need to power the Tacho and Speedo with fused power. Thank you, Western, for your helpful listing on the warning lights' colours. My photo is a mock-up and I had to use the warning lights that I could lay my hands on today to fill all the holes. I'll be sending in an order to Vehicle Wiring Products very shortly as I also want to move the Hazard Switch over to the MUD centre panel where it can be quickly operated without a fumble around the lower dash. I want to keep the Hazard wiring in original colours. What colour should I get to feed the Tacho from the W on the Alt.? Single white or white with a tracer? When this project is complete to a point that I can drive the Landy again, I need to research the options on replacing the chassis with a galv one.

Looking for opinions on this mock-up of an idea I've had for a very long time. I have found it (so far) impossible to drill the 8 x 1/2" holes in a precise straight line, despite a couple of attempts. Any tips? Yes, I know that the style (and sizes) of the instrument's faces does not match; I want to get the layout sorted first. (However, proper matched instruments are an expensive idea so may have to stick with this combination for the present) Am sorry to have to chuck out the old Defender's Speedo (at 234,000 miles), but at 100mm diameter, it did not leave any real room to fit the additional items I wanted. So, the main gauges are 86mm dia., which allow for the extra 2" gauge and the re-location of most of the warning lights up to the top where I can actually see them. I have just bought a slim-style steering wheel which will improve overall visibility of the panel as I drive along. However, am still looking for the appropriate Hub/Boss to fit the 70mm x 48 Spline also having the lugs to cancel the indicators. An idea I have is to fit 5-Pin relays for each of the warning lights so that they all light on the "Radio" or 1st turn of the key and then are returned to normal use on the 2nd turn of the key, by firing the 'turn-off' facility of the relay fed from the 2nd turn supply. Need to experiment later today. I intend to illuminate the Heater Control positions as per previous advice gleaned here. Might even try for the little LEDs in the control arms. Lock-down is great as it gives time for ideas to be put into practice. Now, over to the forum...

Thank you, Western; you are a Star as usual. Really appreciate your assistance as I was totally confused and afraid to order another in case I purchased another wrong one. Thanks again. Ron.

Hi Guys, Need some guidance, please. I had noticed that the Brake Servo was cracked by one side of the Master Cylinder and I bought a replacement off eBay, using the year 1995 of my Defender 90 CSW for reference. The replacement Type 50 STC2879 (non ABS) arrived and was left aside until I had time to fit it. The Coronavirus has provided that time. But sadly, the replacement does not match what was in my wagon. Please see photos attached. Mine is on the right. All the L-R Spares listings I've seen say that a Type 50 is correct for my year/model. But it is not what I had. So, what servo do I need to buy, please? (Part number and type would be a big help; even bigger would be a link to the correct item!). Cheers, Ron /AKA Binnman

OK, maybe not an ideal subject among all you hardened Laners, but I would just love to find a way to fit electric adjustable mirrors to my '95 300 TDi. At my age, 70, I find I really miss the simplicity of using internal joy-sticks to vary the mirror angles as required while driving in perfect safety, which my wife's car had. I've been eyeing up various vans as possible doners, but can't decide which would give the best result. (I've no problem with making up some glassfibre cover between the existing hinge(s) and the 'new' Mirror(s)). Surely, somebody has carried out this conversion and I would love to hear how it went. Anybody?

Hi Western, I had to go real cheap on the new Rev Counter as funds are low at present. It's got a 95mm face made by Veethree in India. I'm very happy with it from my testing yesterday. Instant and real smooth response to the throttle with a lovely clear numerals and a black face. On it, the closest I've got to actual revs is with the DIPs 1 & 3 down and DIP 2 up. That shows 1,400 revs at actual tick-over. I'm assuming tick-over should be around 800 RPM, so, until the Tacho that Red90 referred me to (above) arrives, I think that should be close enough once I get to adjust it with the fine-tune screw. You might wonder why a 95mm R/C. Well, my plan is to cut out the centre of the existing binnacle and replace it with a suitable material, having holes for the Speedo and the R/C evenly spaced with just one 52mm gauge* high between them, and surrounded by individual warning lights. I want these separate warning lights as I cannot see the existing bank of lights being mostly hidden by the steering wheel and frequently miss one even though I have raised my seat rail unless I lean forward. Those warning lights I cannot fit nicely on the revised binnacle will be located on the centre MUD console. * I plan on having the water temp gauge right in front of me, and move the other gauges over to the Mud console. Any thoughts on this? Thank you for all your kind advice/assistance. Ron. ===>

Thank you, Red90. I've had a look at that item, and, as you say, it is really not expensive. I'll order one. 15 or so years ago, I was installing a replacement diesel engine in a boat and I had to borrow a contact tacho to set the Rev Counter in it, as they were outside my budget to buy at the time. BTW, I have a son living in Calgary. Sadly he's not really a L-R guy :-(

Well on Monday (it's now Tues.) I wired up my new Rev Counter to +/- power and the "W" terminal and it worked just great. A little bit high on the revs and as I did not have a precision x-head screwdriver at the time, I could not adjust it down to some 800 or so revs. A little shopping trip to Maplins tonight got me a nice precision screwdriver set, so tomorrow I'll try to set the new R/C to read closer to reality. As regards the EGR ECU, I took it out late Sat., and went for an 80 mile drive yest. The Landy seemed livelier, but that may be just in my head as I have had the EGR pipe blocked off this long while. I also found the W/S wire in the (now redundant) ECU connection block in the Battery box. Think I'll extend that back up into the binnacle to feed the R/C. Means one less wire through the bulkhead. Once more, my grateful thanks to all who contributed to my query.

Gee Guys. I'm embarrassed that so many of you have bothered to take my wiring query on board. Embarrassed but also really grateful. I think that the wiring diagrams provided, whilst very helpful, do not focus in on the detail of my model year (94-95). My Landy came with an EGR (the ECU for it rolls around the Battery Box.!), but as I have already blocked off the EGR and disconnected the wiring block going to it, I guess I can leave the existing W/S (thanks for the correction) wire off and connect a new wire from "W" to the Rev Counter. That will be a job for Monday; will report how I get on. My thanks to MMGEMINI, PaulMc, David Sparkes, Red90 and Western. You guys are wonderful! Until Monday.... Ron. ===>

I thought it would be cool to have a Rev Counter in my 1995 D90 300TDi. I bought the instrument, and knowing that the signal needed to come from the "W" terminal on the Alt., I went to connect it up. But, but... there is already a White/Grey (Hope I'm right about that "Grey" as I'm a little-bit 'colour insensitive') wire attached to that "W" terminal and it disappears nicely into the loom, so not an after-market addition. In the photo attached, the W/G wire has been taken off the "W" terminal. My Def has no Rev Counter already fitted; it has just the standard Def 300TDi instruments. So why is that wire attached to "W"? Scratch head and look at Hynes. No joy there as no "W" wire is shown. More head scratching and search the 'net for a 1994-95 Def wiring diagram. Don't find one. Even more head scratching and contact friend/Auto Elctn. who tells me (from the photo I sent him) that my Alt is a Lucas A127, but he has no idea what that wire feeds. What to do? A.) Leave existing wire on "W" and add new wire to feed Rev Counter and hope not to release any Lucas smoke OR B.) Remove existing wire and see if anything does not work before connecting Rec Counter on its own? C.) Forget about having a Rev Counter.... no, not really. Would really appreciate any help with this. Ron. ===>

Well Western and Mo, I now have a fully working rear window washer. A lovely warm sunny day here.... I found the non-return valve as you suggested, Western. Not a difficult job once the sun visor was undone. But, I could blow through it in both directions, no problem. I checked the graphic on the Front screen N/R valve to try to understand the graphic molded into the plastic. It went narrow bar (Resevoir) to wide bar (Jet), so that was the way I refitted the rear N/R valve. Still no water to rear window; scratch head and pull hose off rear jet unit. Press RW Pump switch. Loadsa water. Ergo, blockage in rear jet unit. Removed it and tried tiny drill bit to clean input hole; no joy. Fired up the compressor and let 150PSIs do their thing. [Memo to anybody who might do this; do not place a finger over one of the jets with 150PSI coming at you. I managed not to yell]. Bingo; a result. Happy days. Water on back window for wiper blade to splash about in. Put back the head-lining and spent 10 minutes squirting water on the back of the Landy. ;-) Got my new rear wiper blade out and quickly realised it should have been 13" and not 11". Back to Halfords for a quick exchange, AND got a Euro back! 2" longer and it was cheaper... Thank you both for giving me the confidence to tackle this job. I've had the Landy 5 years and the rear wash never worked before for me. Ron 1995 D90 CSW 300TDi