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19MART82

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    derbyshire
  1. i recently sprayed mine with the nato green satin finish,dont use matt finish it seems to hold the muck and looks a mess after a while,the military type paint is really easy to spray,i was bit nervous as this was my first time ive sprayed a motor,just dont hold the spray gun to close and dont be tempted to spray it too thick,thin layers, the more time you spend on prep and masking the better the results,but with the military paint it is quite easy for the less experianced http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=80713
  2. are you going down the comp safari route now chris? just wondered for what reason you want to mount the engine in the rear?
  3. bit confusing isnt it lol,there normally pretty helpfull on the phone though as for the reverse cut gears they dont change the direction the axle runs,its to do with the tooth contact between the crown wheel and pinion to make it stronger,some h/d crown wheel and pinion sets you buy (kam i think) will state front axle or rear because 1 set will be reverse cut (front i think) to give maximum strength from the contact of the gears,its just the way the teeth are cut but the crown wheel will still rotate the same way
  4. http://www.rakeway.co.uk/page12.html ive seen the odd one pop up on ebay from timr to time too
  5. all brake pads whatever brand should be bedded in,normally its cycling 10-20 harsh stops to build up the heat without overheating the discs and pads to bed them and thats what i allways do including with the green stuff pads, in the link above is showing 300-400mile to bed the green stuffs in???? i seriously joking aside dont think i even got that milage out of the pads! i was recommended the green stuff pads as i was told they were better for offroad use but where are you going to fit that many road miles in a offroader? i do know the green stuff pads come in different grades so maybe i was supplied the wrong grade? but there is a lot of bad reviews about them if you do a google search
  6. mine were standard solid discs,ive never used vented or grooved, they still wore down at an alarming rate. to answer the question a few posts up the pads were bought from paddocks
  7. ha ha,ive read quite a lot of bad stuff about them as i trawled the internett after mine had worn down,i actually thought my callipers were sticking they wore down that fast,considering they are meant to be better for offroad use i was pretty dissapointed
  8. i had the greenstuff pads in the rear of my last truck,they wore down unbelievably fast and i found off road they didnt stop so well either,replaced them with ferrodo pads and they were loads better
  9. many thanks boris,i will also try the prop in phase,i think ive finally got to the bottom of this now though after i was given some sound advice from a fellow forum member on the phone last night, first job this morning i replaced the uj's on the prop,and i butchered the complete end of a mates spare transfer box to sort the output bearings/seal,when i went to remove the x brake and prop i noticed the caliper was sitting on an angle to the disc,removed this and found with a straightegde the back plate was bent,so put the disc and prop back on without the caliper/backplate,jacked a rear wheel up and got my mate to spin whilst i was holding a straight edge from the transfer box up to the disc,from that i found the disc was also slightly warped (strange really as i thought i would have heard grating/scraping noises),checked the prop in the same way and found that was running completly straight so then i removed the disc and cut up an old output flange to make a spacer and refitted the prop without the disc,took it for a drive and it was loads better but ther was still something funny there so now i thought it can only be the out put bearings so stripped it down again and removed the full output houseing,on doing this i noticed the bearings inside had worked loose and were slack as a bag of knackers so tightened these back up and fitted the new output flange /housing,refitted the prop useing the spacer and leaving the x brake disc off,filled it with oil and took it for a drive,hey presto drives mint,so ive now ordered a new back plate and disc and hopefully the problem should be sorted,will also try the prop in phase too see if thet helps any
  10. single tank would be easier in a 4x4 and probably cause less issues,if you did have 2 tanks why not use them seperatly with a valve or something to swap tanks,as for the fuel pick use a length of silicone or ptfe pipe with a small ball weight on the end (drilled and pipe running through),whatever angle the trucks on the ball will follow the fuel round the tank,if you did run 2 tanks at the same time do this in both tanks and fit non return valves near each tank,1 tank cant bleed into the other then on side slopes and should empty evenly
  11. single tank would be easier in a 4x4 and probably cause less issues,if you did have 2 tanks why not use them seperatly with a valve or something to swap tanks,as for the fuel pick use a length of silicone or ptfe pipe with a small ball weight on the end (drilled and pipe running through),whatever angle the trucks on the ball will follow the fuel round the tank,if you did run 2 tanks at the same time do this in both tanks and fit non return valves near each tank,1 tank cant bleed into the other then on side slopes and should empty evenly
  12. would be far easier to go down the tomcat route like allready said ^^^^ trim the arches,the rear just use some checker plate to raise the inside of the tub and front remove the inner wing then just trim the side panels and fit some flexi arches http://www.tomcatmot...e/advert_3.html
  13. thanks for the input fella's,weather permitting i will go through the process of elimination tomorrow,ive actually discovered another possibility now also,the back plate of the x eng brake is slightly bent and i noticed the caliper wasnt sitting parralel with the disk,it also didnt seem to move very easy on the sliders as due to the bend the bolts are now very slightly angled and trapping it,im wondering if the pads have been in contact it may have over heated at some point and slightly warped the disk,the x brake was allready on the truck when i bought it so will strip it down tomorrow and check it all over,need to find somewhere open to get a out put flange bearing and new uj's first though so i can eliminate any vibration from them,landroversforever your right in what your saying i should have been clearer,they both had 2" lift but the weight of truck/spring ib's were taken in to consideration,they should both be +2" but i'll double check tomorrow,i'll let you all know how i get on
  14. thats an idea actually simon i'll give it a try tomorrow,boris if you have a minute and its not belting it down like it is here that would be great if you could,my front prop i bought from paddocks and thats in phase,my rear prop i bought from wilson driveshafts in notts and thats out of phase,looking at the picture though there is actually 2 marks,just wondering if the other mark is so you can change the phase for front or rear or something? weather permitting i'll have a mess about tomorrow and see what prevails
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