adam300Tdi90

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-bristol-20493058

If it's leaking, and you're going to relace them IMO you may as well do the lot.. i.e. bearings as well. As you have to take all of it apart anyway. But that might be just me. Regardless, buy genuine seals unless you wanna waste your time..

As we know.... it's all relative

Hi Mr Pie Eater (good name) The Hinges are different in that they have nylon inserts.. if they have nylon inserts they are TD5 or later. I think you need to draw us a picture.. From what you've said: "It's the gap between the two parts of the hinge. It's huge on the drivers side and nothing on the passenger side. Not alot of play in the hinge either. I end up with the hinge sat flush with the front of the bulkhead and the door hitting the top side pannel. No amount of wiggling on either top or bottom hinges seems to bring it round properly." I have no idea where the gap is. "Between the two parts of the hinge" makes no sense mate Better txt desciptions: Gap is between front of door and bulkhead. Gap is between back of door and rear tub Need to say if the gap is linear.. ie. one dimensional (Up/Down/Left/Right) (this would indicate that the space for the door to fit isn't correct) OR the top rear of the door frame isn't quite against the B piller/roof/tub.. (this would indicate you need some shims somehwere..) get what I mean?..

I'll bet you it's just the Drive flange / CV Splines have coroded away and the grinding noise is what's left grinding away, when you try and move the car forward. Have you taken the rubber caps of the end and had someone try to move the car forwards while looking at the splines? As others have said too, either you have another similar problem on the rear axle, or your centre diff isn't locking too. But I bet above is still the main issue.

Hmmm barking systems... do you have a dog with wheels for back legs?

Ideally yes... for economy of effort more than anything else. However, I have just seen your other thread. Are you only attempting to fix a swivel leak? (I.e. the swivel seal looks old and replacing it will fix the leak?). Or do you have reasons for replacing the lot? You can just replace the swivel seal, you can do this by removing the entire assembly from the axle case. 6x? 12 point bolts which you can't get a socket set on... ring spanner is the only real way) These are located between the swivel ball and the axle case.. (IE the bolt above number 20 on the diagram above)

Understood, it's generally the same for me too. I'd suggest you don't need a new swivel pin... but it depends how old the axle parts are. I think you should use genuine seals, bushes and bearings, but it doesn't matter about gaskets (in the axle) Have you seen this: Here is a picture of the swivel, with the hub removed:You need to remove the hub as: A. you are going to be testing the preload (level of resistance to the swivel bearings) which is what is happening here. B. You will need to press in the bearing races. C. Everything is much easier with everything stripped down

Sold... does that include import/export costs? Editted to be more helpful.. I don't suppose you put the clutch slave on the wrong way? The bleed screw should be at the top...

How far have you got? Have you stripped the landy yet, or do you need to use it everyday and have the parts to fix it ready when you disassemble?

These are sold because apparently they solve the issue where larger tyres do not self centre. Is it rubbish Mr Freezer?

Any chance of you taking a picture still?

Why's that snagger? (I have a richard's chassis too)

That's Bonnatti Grey..

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