discomark10

Sounds like a starter issue, sound like it engages but doesn't spin.

You could make one fairly easy. pick up some large bearings to fit the shaft your going to use and get a bit of tube turned to size so it fits over the bearings.

I cant remember the exact dimensions, I was reading up about it while ago, but when boosting you want to aim for less restrictive volume and the GEMS mani can be enlarged further easily where as the banana THOR cannot, plus its not an ideal design for bolting a SC to. Dry sumps don't look that complicated, I saw a build on one a few years back and it didn't look complicated then. I'm tempted to have a bash at making one myself as the RV8 pumps are something to be desired. May I ask why you want to aim for such a high PSI? Check these guys out, they import yank motors for similar money your looking at for a boost kit if you do decide to go to the dark side. https://www.facebook.com/DLAxles?fref=ts

I have to say a 454 with a bell housing adaptor would be a very good solution. With the THOR the inlet manifold is very restrictive due to its narrow bore. Its good for low torque but restrictive at top end and especially for boost! The comp ratio is the same I believe.

tis indeed!

To be fair that does flex alright and a balanced amount!

I think you have hit some of the nail on the head! I think its some of the instability on a angled drop is down to a mixture of unbalanced setups and pushing the stock arm arrangements past suitable angles. most people with some flex have huge rear travel and when the stiff front end drops in a hole causing the the body to roll with it and one rear wheel to drop down and try to walk under the body and tip the body more! I have to agree, The only way I can see a retained setup being an advantage over a properly set up articulation with no dislocation is on side slope where the axle/wheel weight would help it from rolling. Looking at the pics of Bills LR makes me think some sort of opposite corner ARB system would help with the instability on side angles, so the opposite corner can only do to an extent what the other is doing... to the the only way I can see this working is with a ram/air system.

70 front* and 80 rear and he said they owe him 550

If your interested my mates selling a front and rear Dana80's

Another solution would be to make some kind of "high steer" setup (http://seilers.smugmug.com/Fabrication/High-Pinion-Dana-44/HPD44/DSC3090/890801181_ciaQn-X2.jpg)

One solution would be to have bent arms

yea it was running fine.. just usual cap related problems ever now and then. so the dis should run without the pip/saw to the MJ with only vr coils and power? I just cut the power to the MJ, wonder if it needs disconnecting all together. going to do a timing check on all 4 coils at 90deg I tervalls to check there firing in order. My mate cam over and befor I told him the issues I was having he said it sounded like the leads are wrong. cheers for the help guys.. apreciated!

It's connected to the dizy still for 14cux fuel relays. Twisting the dizy doesn't seem to change anything. I tried turning the EDIS relay on and cranking, but nothing.

Oh it can do that? Ill give it a try

Just checked for a 4th time, this time had the gf check also and its defo connected right in terms of coils.