ezeman

Yeah, I'd not get stuck so easily AND they would look awesome! I'd be concerned at adding extra load to the transmission shafts & diffs. Wouldn't I need to beef them up a bit first.

@Escape - thanks, I guess there's no such thing as a silly question. I just rejected a full set of massive & nearly new BFGoodrich AT 32's for $900 coz i wasnt sure if the drive train could cope with the higher gearing. That would be cheaper than set of new 245/70 tyres - maybe I should buy the big feet. Any fears/concerns on fitting such big tyres?

Thanks Boro This may be a silly question but how close should the sizes be? I realised that even if I renew with the same brand the diameter of the new tyres would be 20mm bigger. I wondered how the viscous centre diff-lock might deal with small differences in the tyre sizeshandle different sizes. And whether the slight difference might generate heat. As I said, it might be a silly question. Kenny

I would like to change from Bridgtsone Deuler 694's to BFGoodrich AT's. I can only afford to replace the two tyres that need it. Is it safe to put the two new BFGoodrich on the back axle and retain the Deullers on the front? Obviously this will be a temporary fix and will be fully converted in maybe 5000km. I find the Deulers a little light weight for the bog holes and rocky hills.

Thanks SteveRK, I'll have a look for the kickdown cable and see what it's like. The issue is more that it wont change down at lower revs, whilst under load (eg on a hill or gentle acceleration, whilst already in 4th) . I can have my foot on the floor and it won't change down - even taking foot completely off the gas pedal and putting it hard down doesn't do it. Yet, on the flat, with out a load, it will kickdown no problem.

Good point G&T - don't really care how fast it is, as long as there's nothing wrong. My other car is a Saab Turbo Sport, it's only 2 litre but really quick, so I guess road-based comparisons are a bit skewed. Thanks for all the advice guys - I'll swap tyres, do some compression tests, etc and settle into the slow lane.

Yup - it certainly feels like old age is taking its toll, and acceleration is pretty poor - already done 267,000 km (166,000 miles) so it's not surprising. Thanks Dave W, the tires are pretty big, so maybe a set of 2nd-hand shoes might help. Bowie69 - i get kick down normally (totally hear Dave W description of kickdown hell), it just sometimes wont drop down a gear if i had pressed the gas too slowly allowing the revs to fall too far - does this still sound like a kick-down cable? Manual downshift works a treat, so I'm still well mobile..

So I got my 1st RRC through it's roadworthy, even got AC working, - love it, however. . . . With 4 people in the car on the highway, any time i get to a hill it really struggles to keep its speed 80 kph (50 mph). Subtle** pedal work to retain the same gear is pointless. Hitting the gas before it slows too much resulted in downshifting and racing back up the speedo. Take foot off gas at correct speed, and repeat process. If i left it too long and it drifts down to 60 kph, i'd have my foot firmly on the floor and it won't auto-change down, so i need to manually downshift. All other times gear change is fine - Maybe a bigger issue? Same issue on both LPG and petrol. Is it normal for the RRC to struggle in this way? At 80 kph, the car is sitting at very low revs but I would have hoped that there was enough grunt in a 3.9 V8 ignore road hills. Maybe is it simply a difficult rev speed and its just matter of dropping down to 3rd gear at a road hill? Manual shifting on the slightly woolly gearbox still needs some practice. Thanks, Kenny ** Is that the first time the word "subtle" has been used in a land rover forum? I have searched for similar posts but cant seem to get lr4x4 search engine to work - maybe it's just me and engines

Thanks for that - A rubber seal (maybe dust cover) on the output shaft of the steering box is sticking out slightly on one side and it seems a little damp around there. I gave the steering box a thoroughly good clean to see if i could get a better look at the drip. However, Power Steering Stop Leak seems to have choked the flow - so i'm not getting a clean drip. Cant seem to stop the leak at the PS pump though. Main drips form on the bracket under the pump, but fluid is in other places too. Cant see anything coming out of a hose and all wet bits are in line with the pump pulley, so it looks as if the leak is in the pulley shaft seal and dropping onto (and being spun off by) the pulley wheel. Does this sound feasible? I just need to calm the leak enough for it to pass it's roadworthy, then I can take time to fix it once I've managed to register it in my name. - very frustrating....

So i got my first RRC and love it! ('92 Vogue with some aftermarket mods) In order to register it on Australian roads it needs to have a valid (30-day) roadworthy certificate, which it failed due to leaking power steering - I managed not to say "Well, Duh!" to the mechanic. Leaks come from both the steering box and the pump. Managed to slow the flow with Stop Leak, maybe enough to pass - we'll see. Anyway, i've looked over many forums and tech diagrams but cant find an answer to a simple question; apologies if already been asked. What type(s) of oil/fluid is in the steering box? The pump leaks Power Steering fluid (reddish clear fluid) which obviously gets piped into the steering box; but the leak at the steering box output shaft seems to be colourless. Is there an additional feed or oil reservoir that i can't find, or am I just going colour blind? Thanks, Kenny

Resolved - got a different Rangie - $3,600 92 Vogue, 260Km, hidden (and protected) LPG, a bit tatty inside but has new tires, some off-road mods, limited rust & runs nice - very excited, or I will be once I get it through it's roadworthy test. The guy had to wipe away the cobwebs before opening the door, and it started first time No doubt you will hear from me again as I work to get it up to scratch. Thanks for the advice, Kenny

Ouch!

Thanks - thought as much. The rest seems sound - very clean, no oil drips, almost no rust, and has regular servicing. It's done a whopping 360Kms but that's quite normal for australia, The big seller for me is that it's got hidden lpg tanks; usually, they take up half of the luggage space. I can cope with one major fix (no more), so if it passes roadworthy checks and is OK to drive for a while until I source another gearbox - I might just go for it. Thanks for the advice,

I have just found a really tidy '86 rangie in a car yard for a great price (even has hidden lpg tanks) Haven't had a chance to drive it yet and it looks like a standard 4-gear auto; however, the sales person told me that the car drives like a semi-automatic. Have to take off in 1st then manually go through the gears as the car accelerates. This would be my first Rangie so I'm a bit in the dark. Top gear is D, not 4, so I suspect the sales person is, we'll, following the tradition of 2nd hand car salesmen. Does this sound feasible for a Rangie to have semi-auto transmission or is there something wrong with the transmission that stops it taking off in Drive? I guess the kickers question would be, is it fixable? Thanks, Kenny