Inigo

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About Inigo

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  1. And still for sale:
  2. I've got a set taking up space in my garage that I never got around to fitting. Idea seems sound, although they might restrict articulation a little.
  3. Just had all the fluids changed by local indy, maybe I'll call them and ask what they used. I may not have done many miles, but the gearbox has been in the vehicle for a few years now, so definitely outside warranty. I'll have a look at the oil and check the level. Thanks.
  4. First thing in the morning, while gearbox is cold, first and second gear are very notchy and difficult to deselect. Tried double declutching, but it feels as though something is trapped and it is getting worse. This morning had to really struggle to get back out of first. Once I've gone about 5 miles, and the gearbox is nice and warm, everything works as it should. Still fine if I drive it again later in the day. Gearbox was a refurb from Ashcroft and has only done a few thousand miles. Maybe something was disturbed on fitting gearbox to new engine? When engine is not running, it slots into and out of each gear beautifully. Perhaps the extra torque from new engine has already damaged the gearbox. Any ideas? Or do I need to pull the whole thing out?
  5. As an (eye-wateringly expensive) alternative, I had my cast manifolds ceramic coated by Zircotech. Didn't really do any before/after comparisons as I fitted them before I had the engine properly mapped. Avoids lots of the issues listed by Fridge. Although some areas do look suspiciously rusty, I'll have to have a proper look. I've also got hold of one of those IR cameras for my phone so may try and take some pictures when its good and hot and see if it makes a difference.
  6. I think SimonR posted that he had used the Audi one, aha thread here: I found one on Ebay. Had it fitted, but it ran on 100% duty cycle, which would kill it quite quickly. Also means brakes lose power when engine stalls. I fitted a one way valve and pressure switch between it and the brake booster, but, depending on the adjustment of the pressure switch, it still runs at around 70%. Somewhere, there is a vacuum leak. The one-way valve is no longer one way, so I'll find a more robust version. There is a one way valve fitted on the outlet from the brake booster which I have a replacement for, hopefully that'll sort it. I'm hoping the few hours that the pump has been running have not been enough to kill it. After buying the pump, I since found out that more recent models of Discovery and RRS also have these fitted. You may be able to find one more easily that way.
  7. I bought a set of Lokari liners to try and achieve the same thing, but never got around to fitting. They are aluminium, sort of shaped to fit, with some edging strip and a couple of swages along their length so that they can be squeezed in to position. I have since filled my wheel arches with a fuel tank and tool box so think these will no longer fit mine.
  8. Do these help? New Richard's chassis, but supposed to be the same as original...
  9. I ran a big u-tube in copper pipe to act as an air cooled condenser before the water trap. Every once in a while I open the valve at the bottom to drain the water out, it collects some water so must be working to an extent.
  10. I've had mine on for about 30,000 miles and they still look good. Massive improvement over standard lens (although I did upgrade to Osram 110% (or something) bulbs at the same time), so much so that I don't really need the spots (but I had already bought them, so fitted anyway). I have the headlight levelling, and it was just a simple straight swap.
  11. My first interest in this forum was your trailer build thread. I've been really impressed and heartened by your openness around your mental health issues, I think it is good for you and good for others to hear how well/badly you are progressing. It is one of those things that is so rarely discussed and so important that it we don't pretend it is not an issue. I'm glad you are making progress, but even more so, I'm glad you are talking about it, for all of our sakes.
  12. I managed to fit mine without exhaust manifolds, there was probably a bit more room so perhaps it would have fitted with manifolds. I struggled at first to get it in, until I realised that while I was pushing hard on the engine crane, the crane itself was pushing into the bodywork above the door. Nice dent as a reminder to think about the height as well.
  13. There are companies that sell a kit of parts to connect the raised air intake to the air filter box, but they are quite expensive/far away. Examples include Entreq and Nugget Stuff. The biggest point of entry, as far as I can see, is the rubber drain in the base of the air filter box, if not in perfect condition, and the connection between the dirty air pipe and the air filter box, it seems to be about a 1cm gap between these two bits of hard plastic. I bought a length of robust convoluted hose tube that I was going to use to somehow join the air filter box to the raised air intake, but instead decided to just not drive through that deep water again.
  14. I have a similar dilemma and had been collecting parts to mount the toughbook in the back somewhere and route some cables through to a smaller/lighter touchscreen on the front dash. I was going to fold up an aluminium support to be fixed to the top of the dash and bolted to the lower dash. A RAM mount would then be supported from this ali plate to hold the touchscreen. Having taken so long to gather all the parts including dock for Toughbook, external GPS aerial, etc, it now seems technology has overtaken me and a tablet might be a better solution. I had looked at a bar across the dash, similar to what GW8IZR describes and I found an off the shelf version from Series Defender Outfitters https://www.seriesdefender.com/interior/defender-dash-dock-ram-mount.html Currently the Toughbook sits on the Navigator's lap, which is not really ideal. I've found ipads to be quite sluggish on updating the position. I'd be interested to see what you end up with.​​
  15. EGR - Exhaust Gas Recirculation - to reduce emissions, at certain points it will open to allow some exhaust gas, perhaps with unburnt fuel, to be recirculated through the engine and be more fully burnt. As the engine shuts down, it opens and closes fully a few times to try and keep it clean. It is, I think, mounted towards the top right of the engine bay, looking from the driver's seat. They gum up, over time, with all the gunge coming out of the engine, which maybe what is squeaking with yours. You can fit a blanking plate in place of the valve and have the valve deactivated when you have a remap to avoid the issues with it.