Inigo

I've got the two connectors recently cut off my loom in an attempt to upgrade to TD5 dash. You'd need to source some replacement terminals from somewhere as I cut them as short as possible to keep the length on the loom. Happy to post for cost of postage.

I'm not so sure about the bonnet, but otherwise, it does look to be a good spiritual successor to the Defender. I'm certainly keener on it than the new Defender. It will be interesting to see how it develops and if they can keep the interior utilitarian as well and not be tempted by touchscreens for everything.

They were standard on my old Jag XK engine. I seem to remember that the argument was to do with the heating cycle and that wouldn't loosen after repeated heating and cooling.

Yes you did! Glad you managed to fit them and they work. Slightly regret not bothering to fit them myself each time a stone escapes from a tyre, but realistically they'd still be cluttering up my garage.

I had a big cylindrical tank at the rear, where the petrol tank usually goes and a smaller petrol tank under the driver's seat which was filled by removing the seat base.

I'm sure I read somewhere that the new defender did have an element of manual control of things like diff lock, etc. I thought this promising.

Well I was going to take the top off the gearbox anyway to change bushes/any worn parts as my limited experience with tricky to shift gearboxes was replacing worn plastic parts in a triumph herald. A friend suggested that if I was going to replace some components anyway (and the cup that the standard shifter sits in is £90) then I may as well go for a slickshift. He has one on his TD5 and loves it. I found the throw a little shorter, but I wasn't bothered by the longer throw originally. Other minor advantage is that stick no longer bashes against mud dash when I'm less careful.

I'm not imagining it, but it is well hidden on his website: https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product/defender-lt85-slickshift/

I've had the vehicle for quite a few years, but not done that many miles. I had that box refurbed early on in my ownership and it was silky smooth at first. Notchiness was after it was refitted with a new clutch, so could be related to that, clutch had to be balanced and, I don't recall exactly, but there were some issues getting it to work. Looks like I should investigate that area. It certainly is an LT85 and the previous time I looked there wasn't a slickshift for it, I just happened to come across it on their website recently and thought it might help, but, as you say it just reduces the throw. Having put a few more miles on it over the last day or two, it seems to be settling down a little. Reverse is now not much worse than it was before. Once warm, it all works quite smoothly.

Changed the oil again , made no difference. Fitted a slickshift, bu this might have made things worse - still tricky to engage first and second when cold, but now reverse requires two hands to force it in. I understand that adjusting the bias springs can make reverse easier to engage, but there is almost no springiness returning gearstick to center, I assumed that tightening bias springs further will make Reverse even harder to engage. Having read the overhaul manual, it looks as though I need to remove the top cover and re-adjust the selector forks. Is this possible with the gearbox still in the vehicle?

Lovely, thank you. I've actually got two to fit, one to a Puma and one to a 1987 110, but with a much newer rear door. Thanks for the tip about the striker, I'll be less flummoxed when I come to that.

Rear door latch has finally seized shut (after months of warning) so I bought a new genuine one to replace it when I dismantle door. However, it doesn't look the same. Has lightweight drilled handle and a number of what appear to be counterweights on the other end of the external handle. Is this a new improved genuine version or a pattern part. It seems solid enough on the outside, but I'd rather ensure it was genuine if that is what I have paid for. Anyone familiar with this style of latch?

Having been to the alps a couple of weeks ago, I was advised to fill up close to the mountains as they were more likely to have proper winter diesel. I bought some of my own additive which I forgot to take so added in the tank this week after hearing of similar issues.

That is actually very helpful, thanks. I see you have a bulkhead behind your second row seats that gives some rigidity to the upper brackets. Mine would have to be beefier if it was standalone. Considering getting a partial internal roll cage fabricated to give some support to seats, but I'm also nervous about existing seat belt mountings - they are currently through the body above rear sliding windows - whatever strengthening plate may have been added, I don't think the bodywork itself would give much support.

I've just bought some decent leather rear seats from a P38 that I was hoping to replace the existing second row seats in my 1987 110. Currently there is a set of exmoor trim seats that the PO moved back a few inches which gives great leg room for the kids. Seatbelts have been moved back and a frame fabricated for the existing seats. I can modify frame to suit the new seats, but the thing I missed is that the existing seats have the seatback locked in position integral to the seat. The P38 seats are designed so that the top of the seat is locked in position against the bodywork, there is no latch on the hinge between seat base and seat back. So, to get these to work, I need to mount a latch from the top of the tub, below the windows. Has anyone done this (or something similar) before? I'm a little concerned that this might not be a very strong point in the vehicle and be all that would stop the seats folding forward in an accident.

Details about halfway down this page: https://www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk/diff_offroad.php. Video here: But neither really show off the brackets in a good light. I'll try to take some photos of the brackets themselves later. Very robust and with adjustment so that they don't push the bonnet off its hinges. I only received yesterday so yet to see if they'll fit with all of the other gubbins hanging off my wings at the moment. If they do, I'll take some fitting photos as well.

I've just bought a complete set of struts and brackets from Nige (Xcess4x4). Haven't fitted them yet, but, as you'd expect, over-engineered and well thought out. Will probably outlast the bonnet.

Britcar is my default. Sometimes I'll shop around, Land Rover Workshop is sometimes useful to search all the usual suppliers. But usually, Britcar offers me the choice between genuine, OEM or other.

I liked this one: https://creators.vice.com/en_us/article/qkmeyd/meet-the-artist-using-ritual-magic-to-trap-self-driving-cars

And still for sale:

I've got a set taking up space in my garage that I never got around to fitting. Idea seems sound, although they might restrict articulation a little.

Just had all the fluids changed by local indy, maybe I'll call them and ask what they used. I may not have done many miles, but the gearbox has been in the vehicle for a few years now, so definitely outside warranty. I'll have a look at the oil and check the level. Thanks.

First thing in the morning, while gearbox is cold, first and second gear are very notchy and difficult to deselect. Tried double declutching, but it feels as though something is trapped and it is getting worse. This morning had to really struggle to get back out of first. Once I've gone about 5 miles, and the gearbox is nice and warm, everything works as it should. Still fine if I drive it again later in the day. Gearbox was a refurb from Ashcroft and has only done a few thousand miles. Maybe something was disturbed on fitting gearbox to new engine? When engine is not running, it slots into and out of each gear beautifully. Perhaps the extra torque from new engine has already damaged the gearbox. Any ideas? Or do I need to pull the whole thing out?

As an (eye-wateringly expensive) alternative, I had my cast manifolds ceramic coated by Zircotech. Didn't really do any before/after comparisons as I fitted them before I had the engine properly mapped. Avoids lots of the issues listed by Fridge. Although some areas do look suspiciously rusty, I'll have to have a proper look. I've also got hold of one of those IR cameras for my phone so may try and take some pictures when its good and hot and see if it makes a difference.

I think SimonR posted that he had used the Audi one, aha thread here: I found one on Ebay. Had it fitted, but it ran on 100% duty cycle, which would kill it quite quickly. Also means brakes lose power when engine stalls. I fitted a one way valve and pressure switch between it and the brake booster, but, depending on the adjustment of the pressure switch, it still runs at around 70%. Somewhere, there is a vacuum leak. The one-way valve is no longer one way, so I'll find a more robust version. There is a one way valve fitted on the outlet from the brake booster which I have a replacement for, hopefully that'll sort it. I'm hoping the few hours that the pump has been running have not been enough to kill it. After buying the pump, I since found out that more recent models of Discovery and RRS also have these fitted. You may be able to find one more easily that way.