evanmc

Should have disassembled before I ordered off the parts fiche. The switch does not have shear bolts, and is not attached directly to the steering column. Also, there are no screws to hold in the electrical bits. It's ex-MOD, if that makes a difference.

I'll check again, then. I felt around the barrel and did not feel them. Hoping to avoid messing with the shear bolts that holds it in place, but may have no choice.

1985 110 2.5NA I need a bit of help here replacing a component of the ignition switch for my 110. Specifically, how to remove the old component and attach the new one. Can this be done in-place, or do I need to remove the entire assembly and perform this on the bench? (Replacing NRC3908) Thanks -Evan-

I just installed these in my 110 -- matches the original look. https://www.headlightrevolution.com/Sealed-Beam-Holley-RetroBright-LED-Headlights-7-Round?quantity=1 -Evan-

1985 2.5NA 110 Sorting through getting a my radiator back in place... The one I took out has a straight top inlet, but when I look at in the parts manual for nrc6889, I see the inlet has a 90 degree bend in it (to the left if you are facing the vehicle with the radiator installed) As I was quoted US$700 for a recore, I am considering just getting a new one, but I also assume I would need to get part ERC8757 to get the proper orientation (?) and get a new hose nrc6404? Thanks, -Evan-

Just got it open. As the collision was at a low speed, damage was minimal to the vehicle. The radiator was just pushed from its mount, so I can probably just install a new one. As for the hood -- the skin has been separated from the frame a bit on one side at the front of the hood. Guidance here is appreciated. Can I just hammer it back into shape? The complication here is that the bent portion is above some more framing, so I can't put (I don't know the correct term for the body tool) something behind it to bang against.

It came that way to me, and I just never took it off. (Its ex-MOD, right-hand drive) Here in Arizona, the requirement is just a rear plate. Not sure what the previous owner used to attach the front plate to the bumper -- it would be a bit of a mess to clean up if I took it off. -Evan-

Here in the desert area of arizona, fortunately, things don't rust much at all. Having said that, I've been wanting to address the bulkhead rust that came with the 110 for quite a while (perhaps something from YRM). Perhaps I can just beat the hood back in place -- the portion that is damaged is not where the frame is, so that may be the easiest approach. -Evan-

No, far from it. I certainly don't want sympathy over some bent metal. I certainly feel bad about causing pain, and will not pass judgement on them for stopping in the middle of the road. I certainly was paying attention. Actually, what I wanted advice on was what I mentioned. I have no experience with bent aluminum body parts. I am assuming that the hood really can't be straightened out with a satisfying result so replacement is my only option. -Evan-

It was a couple -- she left in the ambulance -- he stayed behind and tended to the bike (which could still be started, moved, etc.) I think they took her away out of an abundance of caution.

Couldn't stop in time to avoid hitting a motorcycle that had come to a complete halt in the traffic lane (5 lane road with center turn lane.) Anyway, here's the result. Looks like I will end up replacing: - Grill - Radiator - Bonnet - Frame around grill - Brace behind grill The hood/bonnet is bent up just a bit, so I can't get it open to see if there is more damage inside the engine bay -- I am assuming that bending it back in shape won't yield a great result (?) Better to replace? That leads me to the next mod. Perhaps now is a good time to move the spare tire to a swing-away arm on the back (?) Thanks, -Evan-

It ended up being a bum switch. With a second new one, things work as expected. Now if I could just get rid of those oil stains on the bricks and the trail leading to my house on the street... -Evan-

I will try to turn the engine over a bit when my oil order gets here. in my test where I bypassed the switch and the bulb did illuminate, I ran a wire directly to the negative post of the battery.

Perhaps it is just a bum switch -- as it failed the same continuity test out of the vehicle it passed before installation. Probably, maybe. Block is definitely earthed.

And indeed, when I connect the white/brown wire directly to ground, the light illuminates, However, now I have no continuity through the switch that had continuity when I tested prior to installation. Argh. No, no ptfe tape on the threads..