DiscoStu

Hi Boydie, just to make sure, I'm talking about the other end. I got the normal axle end bush, insert, bolt and nylock nut but its the other end, the sleeve hits over the threaded end of the trailing arm where the triangle bush and 30mm nut are. Stu.

Hi all, need a bit of advice. I changed my trailing arm bushes last night, unfortunately the sleeves which fit over the threaded end of the arms and inside the bush were pretty much knackered, the part that bolts to the chassis, not the axle. Of course, these are the only bits not supplied in the kit. Has anyone overcome this problem before? Is there a name for the part and where did you get one? I may have to resort to a piece of pipe but would sooner have the correct part if possible. Thanks, Stu.

Thanks all, I can see where you're coming from but would have to say that not all series' out there are original, unmodified pieces of LR history - plenty would be improved by mating with a disco... It doesnt have to be like painting a tache on the mona lisa That said, there is another issue with this idea and that is the RTV ability of such a truck - my club requires a standard sillhoutte and as far as I'm aware, if i chopped 9" out of a 109's tub i may not be able to compete or possibly would end up in a modified class that the truck wouldnt be competitive in. Still fancy a series though, prettier than a defender by far and with much more character. Maybe I'll be trialling on leaf springs, who knows! stu.

Yes I cant give you scientific or engineering reasons unfortunately, but the expansion tank must be filled half way for a reason I assume! The small bore pipe coming from the front of the expansion tank runs an 8" hose to somthing called the Expansion Tank Ejector Valve, basically a three way valve which connects via two more small hoses to the small pipe on the stat housing and the small pipe coming out of the rad just above the oil cooler fittings. Not entirely sure what it does if I'm honest, apart from provide a two into one join in the cooling system but hope that answers your question to some degree. Stu.

As above, yes. You dont want to reach the maximum extension of those hoses and then exceed it. For the money, its not worth the hassle of having no brakes. Stu.

No, it would not be possible to drive the truck safely. When the trailing arm lets go, the rear axle will steer like a forklift truck - you'll be upside down in someones front garden before you can say "Bad idea". Either trailer it away or fix it there - replacing a trailing arm is usually a doddle, do it in 10 mins as long as all the nuts and bolts cooperate. The steering damper is less crucial and although not great, as long as you take it easy and be aware for shimmy from the steering you should be ok, as long as the damper isnt flapping around or dragging that is. Best remove it probably. Stu.

Actually, i really like that idea. This disco has already been re bodied, it's a v8 es on a tdi chassis and running gear as it was still easier to do than sort out all the rot on the original truck. I'd feel pretty confidant about doing it again even if it did mean making some changes to both. Definitely one to think about, thanks all so far! Stu

Hi all, I'm more usually found in the Disco section but I've been toying with the idea of buying a series for a couple of years now. I've got a Disco (300 Tdi) and had another prior to that and a 3.9 Vogue SE before that so its fair to say I like Land Rovers and dont mind getting my hands dirty. What I want is a bit of a do everything truck, it needs to: do RTV trials Safely carry the kids and dog in forward facing seats occaisionally (not for the dog) Shift shi*t to the tip once a month Be a soft top / convertible Have a roll cage fitted / be able to have one fitted Have a windscreen that folds forward Look the dogs bollox So pretty simple then...? As mentioned, I've a 300Tdi that i currently use for this stuff, its a bit of a wreck but keeps soldiering on. On the plus side, its got 85,000 genuine miles on it. Any and every piece of this truck would be available to add to the series as its not worth selling except in pieces - i'm not the most gentle trialler and should have probably invested in more armour... What would you reccomend i think about / be wary of? Can 109's be used successfully in class 5 (RTV) or is it best to go with an 88? What kind of money am i looking at do you think? And of course, series what?? For those who have already used a disco to enhance a series, what advice can you give? Thanks, Stu.

Excellent educational thread! The Garage / Workshop A large untidy area, frequently inhabited by mischevious spirits who enjoy repositioning objects. Also used to hide secret purchases from ones significant other.

Torx head self tappers - thats what are now holding mine on after some scroat nicked them outside of work. Working on the theory that they walk around with a phillips and some wire rather then TX20 bits...

Hello all, sorry for the lateness of reply - I do a different job these days and dont have any time that needs wasting anymore! Delarosa & Pinn - this is where you need a phillips bit in a short 7mm socket or proper holder on a 1/4 inch ratchet to get those tricky screws - a bit held in pliers will work as Pinn says but how many times will you drop it down the dash! Airbags - good point, I havent got them so didnt realise that. Aircon - sorry, again outside my experience on my disco's so far. When you suss it, be sure to update this thread Oh, and the time taken, proably les than 2hrs including brews and inconvienient phone calls! Stu.

I'd go with any gauge / sensor combo that gives you what you need, i.e. warm, hot, too hot! The exact temp does not matter to me, I'm more interested in am I at a safe temp. As long as you get an appropriate gauge reading at vairious temps as above, should be fine. Stu.

Ha, I may try the draft effect - with any luck next year!

I tried a old 240v blower heater I had lying around after reading this post - it worked a treat. I sat in the kitchen watching the ice melt from the inside out! Great I thought, until I got in the car and found that internal condensation was unlike anything I've ever seen before in a car - I've got streaks down all my windows and droplets hanging off the rear window! It is a family saloon though - mabye (definiately) more air tight than a defender I may be too late for another experiment unless it gets cold again but I'll try a different angle / lower setting next time, I think it was pointing pretty much straight at the windscreen. Stu.

Hi, just to be sure - the dashboard clocks dont illuminate? That's not alternator related. Speedo not working? Also not alternator related. There are some big multiplugs going into the back of the instument console, you need to check they are still connected to begin with, then test or change the bulbs in the console. Also check the multiplug in the drivers footwell that sends the signal from the gearbox sensor. After that check continuity of the speedo sensor cable etc. Could all be related or be two completely different faults, i.e. blown bulb and knackerd sensor. Neither of your problems are alternator related so look on the bright side Stu.