Thys

If the cable ties fail I will either replace the mat with a new one/after market one, or rope a mat, or use riempies (ox hide cut into thin strips). Many simply put a board in place of the mat, but that removes some of the flexibility of the seat. I did a short test drive this evening, and the seat really sits well, support is good and no stress on my lower back.

Driving along, enjoying the Disco, a sudden snap noise and my view drops by 20mm. Back at the office I confirmed my suspicion, the support mat snapped. This morning I removed the seat and sub frame to see what can be done. 28 cable ties later, and the seat is as firm as new, my 93 kg permitted.

To the management team of this great Forum, and all the Forum members, a happy and prosperous 2014 for you all and your Land/Range Rovers!

Hi Erebus, I went through the same pains. Repeated flushing and a thorough bleed did the magic on my 1996 Disco 300 Tdi Auto This may sound daft, but do you have the hoses at the heater core the right way around? I had to flush about three times, counter flow, as after the first two flushes, when I ran water the correct way, the core blocked again. The cause of the blockage was the steel pipe running over the head, it was falling apart inside, previous Indies never bothered to run the engine with the correct coolant mix. The other culprit may be the thermostat, new is no guarantee that it works correctly. Strongs, a cold heater is not nice.

My 300 TDi's heater went the other way, first there was the dreaded gurgling sound, that got less, and yes the heating performance diminished gradually. Thermostat and viscous fan 100%. The end result eventually, was a totally blocked heater core........I bypassed the heater core, and will try to un block, by blowing water through the heater core, in the opposite direction of flow.........

Did you replace the aux belt (air con compressor belt) tentioner or the altenator/waterpump/power steering belt (main belt) tensioner? There are 3 bearings that can be the cause, one on the AC belt tentioner, the AC belt idler pulley and the main belt tentioner. Then you have to make sure the poly-V belts has all the pulleys lined up properly. The poly-V betls hates even the slightest mis allingment. Another cause may be the main tentioner mounting shaft bush, if that is warn the main belt tentione tries to ever so slightly twist the main belt. The most reliable poly-v belts are the Dyco or Continental poly-v belts. A foreigh make can be the caude of the screech if out of spec. Last but not the least: on the crankshafr pulley there is a dust cap. If this steel dust cap is not fully round, as a result of a tool damage or stone, the shirp will be there but more of a sharp cyclic chirp...........

Not having a compressed air system in my garage, I always battle to clear the space between the front of the radiator and rear of the condensor. Eventually I took a length of aluminum shower curtain tubing, stuck it into the open end of the vacuum cleaner and sealed the gap with masking tape. It works.

Having removed the centre section of my '96 Disco 1's centre dash section, and noticing with concern the deterioation of the 4 mounting lugs holding in place the fan/ac panel, and the centre strip below the radio, I made a plan, I replaced the broken lugs with sleel lugs, rivited to the side of the opening, and installed steel plated, bent over the section with the mounting holes on the strip below the radio. It works like a dream, no more squeks from behind the dash, and no more grumbles from the driver!

Well, goging against my training and better judgement, I linked the terminal of the evaporator temperature switch directly to pin 86 of the compressor clutch relay, but keeping the wire intact on the harness at pin 86. All works good. The temperature switch cycles the compressor clutch, and if I disconnect the combination pressure switch, the compressor cloutch releases, thus the main protection function of the refrigeration circuit functions, and the temperature control functions. I am going to give it a go and see what happens.

I stripped out the glove box, the AC front panel, radio. I proceeded to trace wire by wire. Eventually I found the open /intermittent circuit between the evaporator temperature switch, unit no 65, and pin no 86 on the compressor clutch relay, unit no 58. Now, betrween these two units a compressor cut out switch is shown, unit no 63. Now this seems to be the culprit, if I only knew where it is, I cannot find it. The wild fix would to simply bypass the unit's circuit by linking the temperature switch directly to pin 86 on the compressor clutch relay, but that compressor cut out switch is there for a reason. Any body seen this comp cut out switch? My Disco does not have the rear air con, neither the electroninc diesel system.

Thanks john242 and dave88sw, what drives me up the wall is that late yesterday afternoon all started working perfectly fine, my worst enemy in fault tracing is an intermittant fault, I will have to re-check all the connections from the earth connector on the compressor relay through the combo press switch and the evaporator temperatrure switch. The main earth circuit and power supply to the clock circuit will follow.

AFAIK all 300 Tdi's, Disco, 110, 90's has the expansion ntank mlower than the thermostat housing, hence the three thin coolant pipes going into the 3 way valve for auto bleeding. Many auto bleed valves leaks so a Y-piece gas pipe fitting goes in, that means carefull manual bleeding when re-filling the cooling system. Half full expansion tank is a must.

When I decided oto buy a Disco I test drove both auto and manual. I am not a serious trail blazer. The auto won. After 260 000 km I did a major overhaul on the auto box, all the friction plates were replaced, the valve body was cleaned and checked, the governor was cleaned and checked and the torque converter was send for checking and servicing (what ever that means). That cost me R10600. I was happy to pay that. My Disco is a 1996 300 Tdi Auto, and really drives very smooth and my diesel consumption on the open road is 9,5 to 9,8 litres/100 km, with the AC working and traveling between 100 and 120 km/h. Occadional off roading in auto is fine, Severe trail I use 1st in low range diff lock and she is easy to drive. Steep decents is a bid scary as you do not have the full advantage of engine braking, but you learn to use the brakes.

Thanks john242, I fount the ignition load relay, if i pull mit out the condensor fdanns stop, I then found a second relay in the LH void below the cubby hole, and if I pull than one out, the condensor fans stop and the orange back light on the AC switch goes off as well. The 3 rd relay, in the RH foot well , on its own, above the row containing the ignition load relay is the one that clatters, or does not energize at all. When that one energizes, the compressor clutch engages. I will now trace the wiring back from that compressor relay to try and determine the fault. The cluster of relays in the RH foot well has a multi connector for the earth wires (black) and that is bolted to the body. All those are secure. The combo pressure switch's two wires shows 0 V when the system is on, thus down stream the power supply is interrupted.

Thanks Teabag, will check the individual earth connections.