steve_a

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About steve_a

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    Aussie As!
  • Birthday 01/17/1973

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    Adelaide, Australia
  1. EDC still has throttle cable doesn't it. 99% sure mine did, as the cruise control would operate the vacuum and drag the pedal down and I'm sure I remember the cable being on the pump.
  2. Don't sweat it, there isn't anything different. I think the binnacle is actually the same, it's facia of the speedo dial that is different, it will probably have both kph and mph marked (I wish my Aus discovery did). The audio system may have some differences, but it's mainly because if it's a high line model it needs line out not speaker out (you can get a doodad off the internet to convert it, otherwise you get terrible hum). And the other thing might be that it's EDC. I had one before I left the UK and it was immaculate condition, I was gutted to leave it there, but we'd not owned it quite long enough.
  3. I think the oil enters on the plug that sits face down in the head drivers side front. I'd struggle to be convinced that the oil enters at the actual injector connectors and wicks up around and down. The O ring comment is confusing, there are only the 2 o rings as shown in the tech archive on the same plug and if they fail the oil will go down the outside, not down the wires. The only other O rings are the ones on the injectors, and he can't be talking about them. It's reputed that a perm fix is to cut the loom on the outside say 2" from the plug as it goes into the rocker cover and then just reconnect with solder. The solder basically stops the wicking effect of the wire and the oil goes no further than the join.
  4. Have you checked for any diesel leaks. My last 300 was from 95 and not long before I sold it the pump developed a leak from the rear distributor seal. Thinking back and triggered by looking at the battery I replaced from that truck for poor start issues, I wonder if it was a bit of air in the lines after sitting. The other thing to check might be the fuel solenoid, perhaps this isn't opening fully, restricting the flow enough to cause the revs to drop after the surplus fuel in the pump was used.
  5. You need to tell us what state ideally too, because the prices vary a heap. $5k here in SA would, depending on the day, get a reasonable D1 TDi. You'd get a reasonable D1 V8 as well, probably slightly newer and maybe a bit better condition. I don't think you'd get a sniff of a Defender for that in SA though. It might not be a popular option, but go have a look at the Great Wall cars, their resale value is terrible, but you might get a 5 year old vehicle for $5k and as a backpacker I'd expect that this might present less opportunities for maintenance
  6. Is it an EDC or mechanical version? This just rings a bell as a sign of the EDC injector having a fault - there isn't that many about and, to make it worse, AFAIK the injector is not available, only refurb of yours is the option. Have a google on the 300TDi EDC to check it out, but I believe all or most UK 300 Autos were EDC (Australia apparently didn't have any). Your other option if EDC is to get a manual pump and injector. You can fit them to swap to mechanical only. All of this is bumkin if it ain't EDC. If not then it would suggest a fuel issue, though it's strange, the lift pump is best to have, but you can definitely run without it and probably notice no difference (I didn't), and everything else would tend to be it either works or not on these motors.
  7. The magazines are really of interest to those with vehicles until about 2004 (last D2's) and Defenders till last year. But even the defender stuff hasn't changed since forever, the engine being the only evolution. I just don't see your majority of D3, 4, 5 et al and Range Rover owners being interested in a land rover mag. So if your subject hasn't barely changed in 10 years, how can you write new stuff? Personally I'd be interested in a worldwide mag (probably online) with articles written about travel in rovers, bush repairs and home fixes with less than ideal kit. * Home mechanics (and not using 4 posters, specialist tools you can't get etc.) * Bush mechanics * Designs and 3D print files for specialist tools/home made tool solutions * Competition coverage * Travel articles With the workshop manuals, microcat, the tech forum here, AULRO good oil and others the 3 pages of coverage for how to do something is pretty lame.
  8. The later headlights are a nice design, I'd suggest any leak is likely to be tired O rings on the covers. Dry it out and replace all the O rings and see how you get on.
  9. Viscous fan will always spin, but if the engine is doing say 2000rpm then then fan, unlocked, will be doing 800 for example. Once locked up it will be one for one. TDi's run nice and cool, I removed the viscous fan off mine in the UK and had an electric for the odd time (mainly off road) that it was needed. So your gauge is probably fine, even here in Aus, the 300TDi in winter (so usually about 15 to 20 deg c ) it would take 15 mins to get some hot air out of the heater. On overrun in the Snowy mountains I actually had the engine temperature drop below warm up after a fair bit of time coming down....
  10. As I'm sure you guessed, that should be (zz * 25.4 ) + 2 * ( xxx * yy/100) I'm just so used to having 16" wheels that my brain didn't notice it As an aside, 235/85R16 are generally held as a great size, you keep the steering lock and get about the biggest diameter you can, 29.1" up to 31.7" but slightly narrower than what you have. Check out tyre calculator , one of the first that came up, but has the useful comparison tab on the calculation along with estimated speedo changes
  11. Close, first number is tread width in mm, second number is wall height in % of the tread width and the Rxx is the rim/centre hole diameter in inches. so if xxx/yyRzz is the numbers the diameter is (16 * 25.4 ) + 2 * ( xxx * yy/100) in mm, so divide by 25.4 again to get inches.
  12. The D2 switches are only momentary that are meant to send a signal to the BCU. The BCU then sends signals to the relays and the lights come on. I reckon this is more or less true for every switch on the dash on the D2. You say project vehicle, if it's just a D2 then use nanocom to check the BCU can turn the fogs and other lights on, if not then the problem is in or after the BCU.
  13. Crank position sensor. Causes the M+S flash and the cut out. Located near the starter motor on passenger side and can be a pain to get to. Read the DTC and confirm it though.
  14. Make sure the cooler is clean on the outside. Usual double oil change is normal after that, however it might be a better idea to remove the cooler return line and feed line, give it a blow out and try to flush some clean oil through, then do the double flush. You can do a single flush with the return line off, but it's a bit tricky and impossible by yourself. The transmission filter might also be worth changing as part of all that too.
  15. I have a remap from Jose at TD5 Inside. It was a super easy process and seems well put together, I have a heap of extra power and I've not noticed any smoking issues. I still haven't gotten around to fitting the EGT gauge, so can't comment on a before/after on that. I've spoken to him about the new turbo, they do a hybrid and a VNT/VVT. I was more interested in the VNT and it was about $2000 AUD + delivery, which seemed reasonable. A few of the AULROs have his hybrid and all seem happy.