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Everything posted by Bowie69

  1. Take the door panel off, and make sure all the rods are in place that should be, not bent, and that none of the bushing have fallen out or disintegrated. Also, check hinge alignment, as too much pressure on the locking mechanism can make it tricky to open. My passenger door does this, but being a passenger door, it doesn't get fixed
  2. I've found SimonBBC's products very good: Do you have 25D6 or 45D6 distributor? If it is in good order, you can just fit the pickup and amp, which keeps costs down nicely. But yes, I would MJ it too
  3. Never doubted you of course, but i guess this is one of those oddities between mainland and NI tests, presume maybe more in line with EU standards given your land border is invisible? I've heard some other stories about NI and Irish cars, insurance etc, so it doesn't surprise me it may be more strict over there.
  4. Absolutely. Thing is, with MOT computerisation, unless it exists as an RFR then it is tricky to fail it, but we shall see
  5. Unscrew knock sensor, throw in bin -hole in block is blind so no oil/coolant leaks to worry about
  6. Q is also for 'radically altered vehicles'.
  7. True CW, this is a pic I found elsewhere: Was the input gear a cross-drilled short spline version of some sort? Looking at that, there's probably 50% more spline engagement with the second picture (from a TD5), you can just see the wear near the root of the spline.
  8. I can't see it in the inspection manual....
  9. Per post yes, resize image to 1024px wide first.
  10. That is all.
  11. It has got better, but last night's boat 'feature' was a bit stupid, but you can't win them all
  12. Peaklander, I think you are right, nothing in the inspection manual: They do check for split CV gaiters, in fact any gaiter of any sort that could allow grease to escape appears to be part of the test nowadays...
  13. Veroboard is ideal for that sort of thing...
  14. I'm unsure why there would be enough heat to vaporise fuel at the pump or before, does the fuel line follow a normal route? Is there potentially damage to the line (pinhole) before the pump meaning it has a hard time when hot pumping fuel?
  15. Certainly watchable, and probably better than TG was when it first relaunched with the trio. Enjoyed the desert racing for sure. The personalities and relationships will develop, then they will become a bit more natural.... But over all 100% better than when CE was running it...
  16. It may well help with this, but you should try be getting fuel evaporation on a standard 2.25... What's your fuel pump, carb and exhaust set up?
  17. I've seen a mate's prop fall in half (it was lifted, and not on a LR), while driving, was entertaining but no one died
  18. And yup, abcd = 1234 As easy as....
  19. Oh, that does make it easier Still, a rev counter that works with alternator is probably a no-cost solution if you swap yours out for one that will work that way -perhaps yours already does with a dipswitch setting? I know I got an OE LR gauge working fine with an alternator feed...
  20. First chunk of links from googling 'Heavy duty land rover hood sticks':'7Csoft+top'7C&page=3
  21. Yup, was about to say, if you get too frustrated, just file it off, there should be enough other threads to get it to engage, and do up.
  22. I don't know the thread, but any triangular needle-type file will be fine enough to get in there and clean it up, I would think?
  23. Personally, I would get an rev counter that runs from the alternator, no issues at all there. Unless you have the MS relay block, the wiring for the 4-diode + 1 zener thing can get pretty untidy. Bonus is if the rev counter stops working, you know your alternator isn't charging, no matter what the charge lights says