gingerwinky

yet again, thank you for your input, you guys are AMAZING!!! so, as suggested by fridge I changed the spark map settings as he said (saving the original map first) then messed around with the trim angle values. I am now running 0 degrees of trim but both the computer and the engine are showing 10 degrees of advance and wouldn't you know it he's developed a misfire but I know which plug is tits. do I now reload the original map and then take him for a spin? Andy

the megasquirt programme

So, just had a look at my spark table and it says that at 800 rpm and 30 kPa the ignition advance is 11 The Idle Advance Settings read:- Idle Advance -8 TPS Threshold 26 CLT Threshold -18.3 Wait Time 3 What I am struggling with is the amount of tuning information out there and some of it contradicts each other, can someone suggest a definitive document to use please and preferably one with big letters and pictures. Again, thanks for any advice Andy

I keep saying this but....you guys are great having put some heat on the lambda sensor the cheeky little chap works a treat. the readings I am getting now are:- at 73 degrees revs 800-ish pulse width 1.9 duty cycle 2.1 MAP 30 MAT 21 Air/Fuel ratio 13 Ign Adv 19 I have checked the engine for TDC, when no.1 cylinder is at TDC the crank pulley timing pointer reads TDC too. With the engine idling at 800-ish and at 73 degrees temp the computer reads 19 degrees advance and the crank pulley reads the same. The spark table reads:- Trigger Angle 0 Trigger Angle Addition 0 Cranking Advance Angle -10 Hold Injection 0 Spark Output Inverted Yes Experimental Oddfire No Fixed Angle -10 Trim Angle 8 Now, the engine and the computer are reading the same for ignition advance but nowhere near 8 degrees for an average v8, is this where I play around with the fixed angle and trim angle figures? I removed the PWM to fault diagnose, should I refit it? As always, thanks for reading this and any advice will be greatly appreciated Andy

Hi Nige, Thanks for the reply, the sensor is one that you supplied when I bought the kit from you some years ago and I have the sensor wired up as you have suggested Andy

YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME! used one of the blanks on the trumpet base to use as a MAP feed, drilled and tapped a hole into a plug, fitted a brass air piece then an air hose between the fitting and the computer and blow me I get the figure I'm searching for, in the immortal words of tommy cooper ' Just like that' a snapshot of the readings I'm now getting on my computer are:- revs 740-840 temp 76 deg pulse width 1.9 duty cycle 2.2 MAP 34 MAT 20 air fuel ratio 28 the needle is hard over to the right and the gauge is in red ign adv 19.9 a big step forward. judging by the air fuel ratio reading the lambda sensor is stuffed and also some readings I took using a multimeter the other week suggest the same. marc, I have built this landy as a general runaround so don't intend him going near deep water, I have a megajolted series/90 hybrid for that but thanks for the heads up on the rope seal. the engine came in bits and it wasn't until I started to assemble it that I realised it was an early block, only paid £15 for it!!! again, a big thankyou for the help andy

So, just did some research and it is obvious I am taking the feed for my MAP from totally the wrong place. 1 chap mentions that he tapped a fitting into the plenum chamber itself and another said he put a t-piece into the fuel pressure regulator line. What is the general opinion for the best place to take a tapping? As always, a very big thank you to everyone who has read this and any comments are most welcome but please keep them clean, unless you are female, know how to tune megasquirt and fancy a holiday in New Zealand Andy

Hi , Yep, the MAP hasn't changed at idle which is why I unshipped the air filter to see if it was blocked even though it's brand new and asked about the length of tube, I rerouted the tube this morning and took over a metre from it's length but still no change. if I blip the throttle or take the wagon for a run down the drive then the MAP changes. one question I have just thought of, am I taking the MAP feed from a suitable place. I have a 3.9 v8 plenum chamber fitted and am running my MAP tubing from the fitting above and in front of the throttle butterfly where the advance tubing for the distributor would be ran from. Andy

hi Quagmire, thanks for the reply, went into Basic Settings, Engine Constants and the table that came up is the same as the link you gave me. Other than the Fast Idle Threshold which I have set to 20 and the link shows 68.8 all of my settings are the same. I shortened the MAP pipe and it made no difference at all. I also unshipped the air filter, that made no difference either. Andy

I've said it before and i'll say it again, you guys are great Went into the req fuel table, the upper figure was 20 and the lower was 10, reset the upper to 15 and the lower changed itself to 7.5. Didn't change anything else. Checked the MAP line and all seemed ok, gave the tube a good suck and the gauge on my laptop moved, a lot. Fitted a piece of tubing to the plenum chamber, gave it a good suck and blow (oo-er)...nothing. Did a bit of probing (fnarr, fnarr) with a 1mm drill bit and dislodged some paint (the plenum chamber is powder coated black, hot or wot!) Flashed up the engine and the clouds of black smoke had gone but the MAP still read 99kPa. Went back into the plenum chamber with a 1.5mm drill and dislodged some more carp. The MAP then read 70 kPa but the revs had shot up to 1400, I screwed in the adjuster on the plenum chamber but cold only achieve 1100 revs so off came the PWM, adjusted the revs. This is then what I read:- revs 800 temp 81 pulse width 5.2 secs duty cycle 6.7% MAP 96 MAT 24 deg ign adv 9/10 deg I looked at the MAP figure and did a bot more probing into the plenum chamber and found the throttle butterfly was slightly stuck on a burr from my previous actions this is what the computer then read:- revs 820 temp 86 pulse width 6.4 secs duty cycle 8% MAP 93 MAT 24 ign adv 9 deg the exhaust smoke is still a little sooty but nowhere near as bad as it was, with the engine running I disconnected the MAP hose from the plenum and gave it a good suck and the revs increased straight away.when I blip the throttle the MAP gauge moves on my computer, the tube is about 2 1/2 metres long, should I be looking for a stiffer walled length of tubing? I have built a series 2 lwb truck cab and the megasquirt computer is in the cubby box between the seats which is why the MAP tube is so long I have been looking for the simple instruction guide but can't find it, could you point me in the right direction please. As usual, any advice will be greatly received Andy

So, running a little rough but we're running on all 8 cylinders. The fuelling is very very rich, the fumes coming out of the exhaust pipe looks like I am running a badly serviced diesel. The information on the computer screen tells me:- Pulse Width 1 8.8 sec Duty Cycle 7.3% MAP 99 kPa Air/Fuel ratio 28.00 Ign Adv 11 degrees I connected the lambda sensor signal wire to a multimeter and on a 2v scale read 0.020v As the engine was warming up I was tweaking the screw on the plenum chamber to raise the revs At 75 degrees the revs jumped to 840 and the following was read:- Pulse Width No change Duty Cycle 11.6 MAP No change Air/Fuel ratio 28.00 Ign Adv 9.4 degrees Lambda sensor signal wire reading 0.025v lambda sensor signal wire readings:- 82 deg 0.031v 84 deg 0.026v 86 deg 0.023v 87 deg 0.021v A continuity check showed that the heater wire has a resistance of 5.6 ohms Upon pulling spark plugs they are very sooty and wet though the exhaust manifolds dry immediately when squirted with water and very hot, I had the lambda sensor out and it was black with soot. can I assume that the lambda sensor is causing the over fuelling? Andy

Hi Nige, Thanks for the pointers, changing the settings made the engine run no better so I started to carry out a full wiring check, within 4 seconds I had found my problem. Whilst constructing the loom I had gotten 2 wires mixed, which was not a problem but I hadn't updated my wiring loom diagram. The engine runs pretty smooth now and the misfires have miraculously disappeared. The crank pulley shows a little over 9 degrees of advance whilst the computer programme shows 10. With the engine running I have found a weird thing, I squirted some fluid on each of the exhaust headers, numbers 5 and 8 although hot were no where near as hot as the other cylinders could this be signs of a failing coil pack? Andy Again, big thanks for the help

Hi Nige, I am using EDIS, I bought the kit from you some years ago Andy

so, I have rebuilt a rover v8 from a P6 which has the old rope type oil seal and fitted a 3.9 injection system to it, the computer has MS1 Extra 029v loaded on it. I was using a very basic timing gun to check the engine timing and the sensor for the pulse was attached to number 1 lead with the arrow pointing toward the spark plug. I had thought that maybe the trigger wheel was on wrong but then how would it start? Andy

So, after moving to New Zealand 2 years ago and my vehicles arriving just before Christmas last year I now have time to move along with my megasquirted v8. I have him running, a push on the starter button, 10-ish turns of the engine and he fires up with no throttle application, OAT about 17 degrees. The computer says the engine is idling at 10 to 11 degrees before TDC but when I put a strobe on the crank pulley it says the engine is idling at 70 degrees AFTER TDC. The spark settings table shows the following:- trigger angle 0 trigger angle addition 0 cranking advance angle -10 hold ignition 0 spark output inverted yes experimental oddfire no fixed angle -10 trim angle 8 I know it will be a simple fix but I cannot find how to get the crank timing marks to agree with the computer, a figure of 78 in the trim box would be rather excessive or would it? As usual any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks Andy