Cyberfarmer

January 5, 2015 Greetings and Happy New Year! Dear Sirs, After a long gestation from doing Land Rover stuff....thank God. I'm finally back with my discovery V8 and yes with the same problem. I still couldn't mate the engine to the ZF transmission. Just a recap, I never pulled down the ZF tranny and the TC fits straight in the middle. My procedure then was to install the TC and the engine afterwards but I get a gap between the bell housing and the transmission. My local indy asked me if the TC of the TDI and V8 is the same or different since we succefully rebuilt one and maybe interchanged the TCs. In my mind should it be better if we rebuilt the engine and tranny on the ground before we install it to the chassis/body? I have attached the current pix for reference to find out if I have missed any part/s. Thank guys in advance.

August 28, 2015 Discovery 3.9 V8 All Stock; No mods Dear All, I'm currently mating the engine to the auto gear box but couldn't match them. There is a gap of about more or less 1" between the bell housing and transmission. STATUS: 1. The transmission is currently installed while the engine is being dropped down. 2. We had to rebuild and machine the torque converter neck (which goes into the transmission) due to rust that build up. It just the same as the original measurement. 3. The Torque converter locks into the transmission Is there a proper procedure or have we misplaced a nut or bolt that why we couldn't mate the engine and tranny? Thanks in advance appreciate it

Thanks for the many replies. I have checked the solenoid through a simple application of pos neg on the housing and pole, the solenod dribbles the plastic plunger. Now, I reckon that the wiring is screwed or theres no current drawing towards the solenoid or vice versa. Is the wiring a screw type on to the solenoid or a plug type...its a silly question i know. Thanks

July 14, 2014 Dear All, This may or may not be a repost but I couldn't find anything similar. I have a Disco 300tdi automatic, engine newly rebuilt including the injection pump. My problem is that I couldn't turn off the engine from the key though I can start it on a click. The fuel stop solenoid is new and the engine idles well. I can only turn off the engine when I open an injector fuel line so the engine would starve. Where do I need to start hunting? Thanks in advance.

Hi Tempo! If you're emitting white smoke then you're burning oil. Is the oil leak coming out only on the exhaust or within the confines of the engine? Have you checked the crankcase breather assembly, the filter might also be blocked. Thanks

Hi Defv890, The fuel filter and tank pump are new. I dont know where the fuel cut switch is. Thanks

Good day to all! I have a 2000 Discovery Td5 sitting in the garage for almost a year now and I cant find any solutions to it. Problem: 1 .Engine wont turnover to start. 2. It just keeps on cranking and cranking. Observations: 1. Fuel Pump is working and fuel feed lines are full of diesel. 2. Immobilzer is OFF 3. Tank is full of diesel What I have done: 1. Cleaned the ECU ports and plugs (it was covered with grime and oil) 2. Read ECU and No Faullt codes. Is there anything I can do to start the engine directly without going through the key barrel so to isolate any electrical problems? Thanks in advance. Alex Philippines

Good day to all! I bought a 1997 Discovery 300tdi automatic and I am looking for a vacuum diagram for the engine - aircon (idle up) since mine has been blocked off by the previous owner and in fact I noticed a T-piece on the vacuum pump hose line which I know is not original. Hope you guys can help out again. Thanks

Hi! The Range Rover is in TRANSPORT MODE. Anybody knows how to disarm it? I cant clear the fault. Thanks

Hi to all! I`m trying to fix a central door locking issue with a 03 Range Rover L322 4.4 V8. Btw, I`m using an Autoland Scientech Scanner to diagnose the L322. Here is the timeline before the central locking and the key fob stopped working: 1. The alternator died thus draining the battery 2. Replaced alternator and started the unit w/o faults 3. Key fob stopped working even if reprogrammed by the ..."press lock button while pressing the unlock thrice...." 4. Central lock button stopped working as well. 5. All electronics are working except central door lock. 6. Run through diagnostic and used an ACTIVATION MENU for each door lock, the only NOT working is the front driver side Door lock. 7. Used key to check open/close of door locks through key barrel but still NOT successful. 8. Opened door card and replaced Door Latch Assembly with a NEW unit. 9. Again, run through diagnostic and used an ACTIVATION MENU for each door lock and still front driver side door lock not working. (when switching on and off, I could feel the motor inside Door Latch Assembly moving a little but not full) Is this a BCEM problem now? Please Help. Thank you very much

I was able to change it without taking off the engine but now the problem is the engine is hard starting, only cranks. Prior to the leak the engine starts well.

thanks nickcc!! yeah you`re right, it was in the garage for almost 6 months and didnt bother turning the engine. do i need to pull out the whole engine out to fix this problem? any part no on the core plug? thanks again

Hi to all! I suffered another coolant leak on my td4 but this time its coming from the right side of the block (looking in front of the car). It looks like a blanking plug circular in shape underneath the egr pipe and attached/screwed to the block. Mine was rusted and it just burst. Has anyone suffered the same? How to replace it? Thanks. Greatly appreciate it. Alex Philippines

Here are the pix of the vacuum line: 1. I intentionally removed the vacuum hose to the EGR and blanked it off, got the idea from the forum and the effect was good. 2. When I opened the acoustic cover, I saw this filter attached to one of the vacuum hose from the turbo, there was no hose attached to the other end of the filter. I only attached a hose on the other end just recently. (pic 1) ....and from the other side on the vacuum line, the T-Joint was blanked off. I only attached a hose just recently. (pic 2) ....what I did was to connect the hose from Pic 1 (filter end) to pic 2 (t-joint). Is this right? I noticed when I attached the two, I could hear the turbo spool better, the revs go up faster, 0-120km/h was faster but I couldn't pass the 120km/h mark, is there a speed limiter? Am I missing a vacuum line? Is this related to the valve depression limiter filter problem? 3. Lastly, I want to ask if these are breather pipes or vacuum lines?

Hi to all! Im trying to figure out what the route of each vacuum pipe go to and from. I took off the acoustic cover of the engine and found that there is a loose vacuum pipe with filter from the turbo side and the T-joint along the vacuum line from the reservoir has been blanked off by a screw. Also, are there vent pipes located behind the air cleaner assy just behind the mafam? I dont know if the two should be joined together but I just want to make sure I install everything right before costing me something big. Thanks guys.