Fatboy

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Fatboy last won the day on July 23 2016

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About Fatboy

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    Too many bits, not enough talent!

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    Aberdeenshire

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    Six Land Rovers kinda defines the interests.... Oh and trying to sort out our chunk of Deeside!

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  1. Glad to help. For black, just use the standard Raptor and a Schultz gun (under seal). plain black is much easier as you can mix a canister at a time.. with the tinted, I didn't want to risk different shades so mixed the whole lot in a bucket then decanted it back into the canisters. Also... bear in mind, once its mixed, it starts to set. I had a litre left and thought it might keep till morning. No, it set like jelly. unlike Linex, Raptor doesn't get sprayed on hot, it takes a few weeks to really develop the hard finish.
  2. On the latest attempt (the one in my post from earlier, I used an adhesion promoter from Buzzweld under the Raptor to try and help. I suspect those bubbles on the back door are no worse than they would have been with regular paint, as the water is coming through pin holes from the back.
  3. I've done two 90's with tinted Raptor, one of them over a year ago. with the tinted stuff, I tipped four bottles into a bucket and mixed them, the tint and the activator together at one time. I used the activator to clean out one of the plastic raptor bottles before adding it because the neat raptor is quite thick. its very easy to apply, I needed about four litres per vehicle and didn't use it on the bonnet or roof. It doesn't run but you can create some thick spots. On the first 90, it's surviving really well but there are a couple of areas (back door) where pinholes seem to allowed corrosion to continue from behind and the blisters are getting quite big. i wouldn't fancy trying to rub it down! I'm on my phone at the moment, I'll add some photos later.
  4. I've had similar experiences with the same level of prep, in a heated garage. Similar stats too, 1 in 3.
  5. Doug, I've done a couple and they are much easier than a main gearbox. Just take your time, and take plenty of photos as you take it apart. I start on a clean bench lined with brown paper so that I can write observations and draw diagrams as I go.. The linkages for the diff lock I'd recommend getting the kit from Shabs Piercy at www.onlinegearboxparts.com and if you are feeling flush, consider a slick shift for the main box too. He sells known bearings and decent gaskets etc. Shabs also sells upgraded parts - cross-drilled input gear etc. Its all on the website. If you do buy a slick shift, buy a new turret (£15-ish) because the slots in the side wear, and take the time to set it up so that the stick wants to sit in neutral in between 3 & 4. I didn't initially and was frustrated with the feel, sent Shabs an email and got some very helpful texts back - top bloke.
  6. A couple of years ago, there were six big trees blown across the public road near our house. I made a start at clearing them and had got through three when a council van turned up. I kind of expected to get told off for working with a chainsaw on a public road, but they were really cool about it and pointed out that as long as I own the saw, and am working on fallen tree's, I do not need a certificate of competency. The Supervisor then advised that they only had one certified chainsaw person, and he was really busy... Had the known I was "at it", they would have sent me a couple of labourers. I clear trees and branches off the roads, and keep the wood. My argument is that I am performing a service, and the wood is a reasonable reward. (Obviously, I would not keep a 200 year old oak!).
  7. Irwin bolt removers are excellent. They have a left hand flute in them and the set has various sizes. If there is anything proud of the fastener you want to remove, they are worth a try. Otherwise, weld a nut on and proceed as per normal?
  8. I suspect 5.5kw may be too big for a garage that size.. You are better to run a smaller unit "flat out" than have to throttle a big one back. We have a Morso Squirrel in the front room of the house which is about 5m x 5m and it is more than enough. My parents used to have a big Jotul stove in their house and it was a tricky brute to keep in check... Other considerations will be the insulation in the garage, the size of the flue, the amount of drafts or open doors etc... and the type of wood you intend to burn... for example, well seasoned hard wood chucks out a lot more heat than barely seasoned soft wood...
  9. I found an abandoned fairly heavy duty shopping trolley, chopped the basket and handles off it, welded on an upright, a couple of braces on the base and a swivelling cross piece that bolts to the bell housing holes. I used it for holding Rover V8 engines and it worked really well. The upright tended to develop a bit of a sag by the time the engine is approaching fully assembled so I'd add some stiffer material in the next version. Shopping trolley wheels are really good quality and the basic frame is usually very strong.. Obviously, this was my attempt at Billy-Bodge-It Solutions, no design calcs were completed and the end product is not certified or NDT inspected. It works for me.
  10. There is a dedicated Facebook page "M57 Land Rover Group" for transplanting the M57 into various Land Rovers. They seek P38 manual gearboxes for the bell housing so if yours is a manual, you are half way there. I think you also need a custom loom, but they are available too.
  11. Honestly, they walk all over Nylocks, Loctite, Split Washers etc. The funny thing is, when you try and back off a fastener with Nordlocks on it, the initial effort to overcome the "step" is very significant and gives you that awful sinking feeling that you are about to shear the stud / bolt.... Then you remember that the effort is required to break the hold between the face of the nut and the workpiece, it is not being exerted on the threads at all - happy days. Enough of my ramblings on the pro's for Nordlock, I am beginning to sound like I'm related... In reality, I've seen their demo's a few times, I've asked them for advice and they are quick and thorough, and I've done their free online training and learnt quite a bit, thus I am nothing more than a very happy customer.
  12. There are some really good explanations on their website. The short answer is "no". The system consists of a pair of similar washers which have serrations on one side, and a slope/step on the other. The serrated sides go to the workpiece and fastener, and the two slopes/steps mate together. The two pieces are lightly glued together when you get them to make assembly easy. As you tighten the fastener, the serrated sides grip onto the nut and workpiece, they do not move relative to their hosts. The sloping bits ride up over each other until the desired torque is acquired. The step portion then prevents the washers backing off relative to each other until you exert a significant force to break them over. The washers leave marks on their hosts, which are light indents, certainly not as bad as flanged nuts which have to chew the host material. I've put them on the V8 exhaust manifolds with excellent results. If you are using a nut & bolt, the washers need to go under the head of the nut and the head of the bolt to prevent either component from backing off.. (Thats one of the "oh, that makes sense..." bits that you get from the training). They are reusable... PM me your address and I'll send you a couple to play with
  13. If you go to standard fasteners, then seriously consider using Nordlock Washers to provide the anti-back-off function. Much, much better than Loctite, Nylock or Split Washers. I've seen the comparison on the Junker Rig and we use them all of the time at work. If you want to evaluate their effectiveness, make up a wing nut "barely hand tight", with a Nordlock under it, then try and back it off.... Their online training is also worth doing, even if you do not intend to use their product. There was some stuff that I was not aware of, but then thought "d'oh, thats common sense..." when i read it. You get different varieties depending on special applications (materials, bridging slots, large versions etc) I'm sure most decent Fastener Supplier will have them in stock. (Grampian Fasteners in Aberdeen definitely do). I'm not linked to Nordlock, or anyone who works for them btw, I just really like a clever, simple product that works.
  14. I thought I'd give this a crack and bought the Atwood 4000 form the chap in the IoM (Got the 4000 in the box, not the 3000 - happy days). I wired mine separate to the heater, through a 10A fuse with a toggle switch beside the ignition key. It works a treat! On its own, I think the Atwood is stronger than setting 2 of the standard heater and have been using it on its own, but with the heater toggle down to just above the 2nd point to make sure the flap is open. I'm actually wondering about blocking the radiator to try and get more heat from the matrix. Unfortunately I've got a full width intercooler in front of the radiator but I can slot sheets of material between them to reduce the airflow to the radiator. (Currently using a couple of old number plates). Well done to everyone who contributed to this thread!
  15. Mike, If the bearings are okay, then it should be possible for your current one to be rebuilt. Do you have an old, traditional "can fix anything" type garage or workshop nearby. He might not be equipped to do the job himself, but he'd maybe know where to take / send it. Yonks ago, when we lived in Norfolk there was a little place that just refurbished starters and alternators for pennies. They had proper "old school" equipment, and it was a dark, cluttered place but they did amazing work. Good luck!