Hi out there to all, been tyring to weld a patch on the 110 and can not get it any way near acceptable. In a very tight area i can not get the torch in to it. So would one of these in the title be worth a try? Thinking the rod would get in to tight spaces and not be as bulky as the mig torch?
It will be one of those jobs unfortunately. 😕 Try to get a diagram it might help. The cables might have small nips where they been tightened on before. Hope you get sorted. Mark
Hi out, for the life of me I could not get the rear top bush in wanted to try and put it in as a one peice. Ended up cutting it just like the last ones. I blame non genuine but who knows? Can it be done or do I need any special tools required?
There is a thread on here somewhere, a guy said if a new 127ohm resistor was put across the posts on the back of a faulty gauge it made it work again albeit a Defender type. I could never verify the claim. Regards Mark.
Will a VSR allow me to charge two 12 volt but not the same amp batteries? I want to have the second battery for my diesel heater to run it occasionally. I don't mind connecting or unconnecting terminals to have this option. Regards Mark.
Me again, can anyone tell me if the above will have the fixings/brackets on the C posts for middle row seatbelts? I know I don't have anything brackets on the chassis or inside. I am thinking I will run into complications if I try to fit some?
Done about 10 pages searching but nothing relevant to the older 110s.
Regards Mark.
It is only minor fault but I do appreciate the suggestions to follow up, I have started a written list and will go at it again over the holiday period. Best wishes to everyone at this time. Mark
Thanks, funny how these sort of faults happy even when you are parked up then jump back in and see it! I really do not know how people live now with all the tech in vehicles now. Are we better of with it? Regards Mark.
Sorry to drag this up. But does anyone no for sure if this is a fix for the 110/90 fuel gauges, and is it as simple as the last post suggests or am I missing something? Regards Mark.
Just on a similar theme, I always shop around for my vehicle ins saved £70 this year on renewal even with declared non fault accident. It can be also made more complicated if you have modifications to your LR.
Yea I was thinking the gauge myself it would be the dearer part but probably the easier to change. There seems to be 2/3 gauges it could be I was going for PRC7313 but when I took it out found this.
If I may if anyone has a good second gauge PRC 3107 give me a pm.
Price wise 2nd hand £25+ new £55+. If anyone on here has a working one let know price + p+p.
Would I be right in thinking it is the gauge at fault with what I have found in the voltage readings more volts more fuel?
Thanks Mark.
Yes black wire on threaded post. If the low fuel light still works at least it will give me time to save up for a new gauge. 🤪 Or a length of dowl, I can dip it before each journey. Full jerry can in the back belt and braces style. 😬
You will have to excuse me I've had a few ciders.
Thanks for the help.
At the tank if I raise the float the multimeter goes up to 12v and low fuel light goes out and gauge reads full. If I lower less volts on m/meter f/gauge reads full and orange low fuel light is on gauge reads full, faulty gauge perhaps? 🤔
Green and black crossed at the tank gauge reads full. Gauge on bench 12 to male earth to female gauge full. If I put 12 on the female and earth to the male no movement.