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steve_d

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    Waterlooville Hants

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  1. Hi Is it possible to replace cam bearings without special tools? If so what is the prefered method and choice of 'make do' tools. The bearings are each different sizes so I assume there is a correct sequence for both removing them and fitting new. Are they fitted dry or with some sort of retaining compound (Loctite)? Many thanks in advance. Steve
  2. Our 51 plate TD5 110 has developed a gearbox problem. A chattering noise mainly in 5th which becomes 'machine gun fire' on over-run. The noise is there in 1st and 2nd but no where near as loud. The noise is also there when ticking over in neutral. When you depress the clutch you can hear the chatter run down as the gear clusters slow and stop. Here's hoping someone will say it's a known problem and the fix is.... I don't mind if the answer is that the 'box has to be replaced. If the answer comes back inconclusive I'm left with replacing the 'box with no certainty that I will fix the problem. Thanks in advance Steve
  3. Yes same 4 post pack. This is what I was doing in the workshop. Just tried it again at home with another coil pack and still get nothing so still have to be doing something wrong. Steve
  4. I have done that and all was OK but that does not test the leads & plugs. I just thought it would be easy to test the lot but have so far failed. Steve
  5. Hi I'm working on a car with Ford coil packs directly driven from an ECU. Paperwork that came with the vehicle talks of the possibility that the ECU may not be working. The sentence said "we think we may have fried the ECU". The engine barely starts and tests show we are indeed missing sparks. What I wanted to do was test the packs, leads, plugs etc on the bench in order to eliminate them from the equation. Sounds simple enough. Connect power to the centre pin and flash the outer pins to negative. Didn't work. Earthed the coil pack...nowt. What am I doing wrong? Thanks Steve PS Not an MS ECU but the coil packs are the same.
  6. Good luck with the exam. Steve M3BBH RAYNET
  7. Also try a engine oil or 3 in 1 as WD40 is not a good lubricant. Steve
  8. Vinyl floor covering offcut. Steve
  9. Is that with or without sucking through the teeth...goes without saying it will be extra...+VAT. Steve
  10. White is ignition switched live and should remain on during cranking. Anything connected to the auxiliary position on the ignition switch will go off during cranking. If the white goes dead during cranking it may be connected to the wrong place on the ignition switch. I somehow doubt this as they are normally soldered connections so not something anyone is going to mess with. Steve
  11. Top right shows the start position of the ignition Switch. The white/red is only live during cranking. So during crank you should have power at ECU pin 4 and steering module pin 3. Plus cold start injector and thermotime switch. Steve
  12. I've always used the non adhesive loom tape. Works very well and has some stretch in it so you can bend your completed loom into place. Start a few inches from the end of the loom and wind towards the end. When you get there come back the other way and carry on down the loom. The double back prevents it unwinding. You could start and stop with adhesive insulating tape. Steve
  13. Our Desert Warrior will climb on the trailer at tickover. Steve
  14. Did one recently without removing the turbo. Plan to replace the pump as they are only about £18 so not worth messing with. Steve
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