Ian Barrett

I’ve found a photo on another forum which confirms this is a normal thing. onwards and upwards then. If we can get the pulley bolt off we are taking the pistons and crank out this morning to see how worn things are.

Hi. I’ve just started inspecting a Discovery 200tdi engine I’ve had for years with the intention of fitting it into Ninety. We have taken off the oil pump and found the drive shaft has a tooth ground off it. Is this usual and done by LR or am I looking at a modification done by someone?

Oh man, quandry time. Devon 4x4 can't get the wheels I wanted in the size I wanted. They can get something similar but only in 8" wide which is too big for the 235 profile tyres I like. So I got them to price up Zu alloys with BFG AT tyres and it came out £200 more than Paddock. It looks like I'm going to have to acquire a taste for humble pie because as a Yorkshireman my sensibilities can take a hit for £200

It would have been something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Waterproof-1M-2M-3M-5M-3528-Adhesive-Roll-Strip-Light-With-Connector-12V-Adapter-/141602029230?var=440743865470&hash=item20f8237eae:g:B2gAAOSwL7VWq2vR Without the 12v adapter because you obviously don't need this in a 12v vehicle. You can cut it at intervals so I think I ordered something like 3m and cut it to size. Solder a skinny cable on - the most pathetic twin cable you can find is still enough - heat shrink over the joint and splice it at the other end into your vehicle wiring. Bobs your dads brother.

Thanks Paul. I had them kicking around from a previous experiment. They are the waterproof version because that experiment was in a kitchen I don't particularly think LED and old classic work well together either. I've kept my bulbs everywhere else and these can't be seen unless they are switched on. The drawer top is a load space protector cut to be wheel box covers and flat floor section which was then cut further to fit my draw and chest combination and siliconed to the tops. Luckily the drawer/chest aren't a really tight fit to the well.

I converted my Landy to a truck cab with a tonneau cover over the load space. It was frustrating though groping about under the cover in the pitch black or when there isn't a street light handy - like when you're camping. So with some spare time yesterday and some bits I found in the shed I fitted this strip of LED lights inside the tub. They are linked to my side lights and activated by a micro toggle switch underneath the door lock which you can just make out in the photo. They aren't going to blind you with their brilliance but its still a huge improvement.

Great, thanks for the info on Devon 4x4. I looked on their website and couldn't see anything so I just called them. They think they have the wheels I want and are looking at it for me - along with the wheel & tyre combo I ordered/cancelled from Paddocks. I'll keep you updated.

Thanks for the help chaps. The wheels I'm after are not on the Britpart website. They are these http://www.paddockspares.com/6705165svmo-16x7-silver-grey-modular.html

I currently have the modular wheels on my truck which look a bit like split rims with the little bolt heads on them. But they are ratty looking now after about 10 years and as Paddocks still sell them I ordered a set complete with BFG AT KO2 tyres etc last week. I paid for Express delivery so I'd have them for the weekend when my 11yr old nephew was down so we could fit them Saturday morning as a fun thing because he loves the Landy. but I cut my nose off to spite my face on Friday when I called to find out where they were, to be told they wouldn't be with me until Monday. So I took the hump and told them to cancel the order. Now I can't find the same wheels anywhere. Are they unique to Paddock? Please don't tell me that, I really don't fancy eating humble pie and ordering them again from these clowns.

Morning all, I've found the source of my diff oil leak was a blocked breather, so that's all cleaned up and the oil changed - at 5am this morning because I couldn't sleep! Everything I've read tells me the breathers should have copper crush washers, but on both of my diff breathers I've found fibre washers both above and below the banjo. Fibre washers seem easier to find from BandQ and the likes, whereas copper seem a sbit more difficult. So is there any reason I shouldnt just get some new fibre washers and use them?

A quick final update to this thread in case anyone finds it in future The lip for the gsitor was indeed cast so I didn't need the part I couldn't identify. More importantly though, I couldn't fit the bottom plate which is held in place by the circlip. I fought for about 5 hours in total, pressing, cajoling, stripping and cleaning etc, but eventually it dawned on me to compare old and new plates, only to find the were hugely different. The chamfer on the new plate barely existed where on the old plate it was at least a 1-5-2mm - which is where the rubber seal no doubt fitted. When I cleaned then jacked the old plate in using the same method I'd been using all day without success it was in and circlip done in 10 minutes, It was a bearmach kit I was using. Next time I'm doing the disco conversion and will start collecting the parts now. Thanks to all for your help, and to Les again for his fabulous Tech Archive.

Yes David Sparkes that is the picture I was referring to. Thank you. The picture doesn't show the part very well but before I started the job I laid all my parts out the same to check had everything. I have 2 circlips but other than that it's the same kit. I've done a successful test this morning, attaching the new boot to the arm and attaching the old Spring retainer and it fits without being able to pull it back off again. So it seems my early 1987 vehicle, and the one Les used for the tech guide photos has the lip cast in the arm and this part is redundant. Though a thought did just occur to me. I will thoroughly clean around there tonight and make sure it is cast, and not that I have to prize the old one off and replace it

Thanks both. I'm not certain and it's dark now so I can't check, but I think the drop arm on my 1987 Ninety has the lip as part of the casting. It makes sense that's what it's for though now I look at it. I'll check it on the morning and will also try a test fit of the boot and it's bottom spring to be sure it's all going to fit. Otherwise I'll get the bits for the disco drop arm mod.

Hi chaps, I'm following the tech archive guide Drop Arm Ball Joint Change insitu And have a part which is in the photo showing the new parts but not mentioned in the guide. It's the item second from left of the bottom 4 parts - between the boot bottom retaining spring and the Small Ring used to retain the top of the boot. It looks like a thin washer with a lip Can someone tell me where this fits. I've gone through the guide and checked off all the other parts but this one isn't mentioned and I can't find it amongst the bits which came out either.

hi all, I apologise for what must be a numpty question to most of you but this is my first foray inside an engine and I don't want to stuff it up by doing something stupid. I have a 200tdi which I've taken the head off and found some light crusty stuff on top of one of the pistons. I had a mate who used to be a mechanic check it for me and he said its OK but just give it a wipe around the bores with some flour paper and blow it out with the airline. Trouble is I can't find Flour paper ie. very very fine sandpaper, and I don't want to bug him as his wife is extremely poorly so he has his hands full enough without minor stuff like this to think about. What would you recommend just to give the bore edge a very light wipe around Is this stuff any use? http://www.sylmasta.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Micro_Mesh_Abrasives_1.html Thanks IanB