Low Down And Dirty

It is a later type D60 block so porous bore should be out of the question due to the fact it has liners.

Exactly what I wanted to here. I was a bit confused because most cars the water in the header tank goes up when it gets up to temp. Although most manufacturers aren't stupid enough to put the top hose higher than the header tank !

Since I've left it to cool down the water has come back up to the cold fill level, is it normal for the fill level to go down when the system is at running temp ?

I sorted this problem the blend flaps were sticking, I noticed the cheque book sign coming up when the problem happened. I used LR Extended life coolant, Pink. But it is expensive, unless you know people Full system drain is 11.3 l apparently.

Vaccum tested the system to -24psi with an air lift kit eariler and the pressure held for 20 mins with absolutly no drop in the vaccum, refilled the cooling system through the airllift kit and ran it on my drive for about 30 mins, with no loss of coolant, took the truck out for a 10 mile drive and lost ½ the fluid from the header tank. This is getting annoying. now.

Both the old and the new stat work fine 'cause I have checked them off the car, I bought the new stat direct for Land Rover £49 I was myself under the impression that the heater problem was totaly unrelated to the other problem, just coincadental that it's happened at the same time. Not had chance to play about with this since last weekend, planning on trying it again tomorrow, going to remove most of the hoses and try pressuring some water round with a hose just to make sure there is no form of blockage, and then removing the header tank from where it sits and putting it as high as I can then try bleeding the system once more. If that dosn't work them I am going to remove the cylinder heads as I was planning on upgrading to a pair of big valve ported and pollished ones anyway at some point, and see if there's anything untoward there.

Easy job, I've done 3 sets for people, first set I just ground the centres out, but the last two I machined the centres off the rims simply because it's easier and neater, and I now work in a machine shop lol.

I seem to be getting a lot of people suggesting that it is an air lock so I will have to try bleeding it again at the weekend. Bleeding the system I rad the engine with the cap off untill the system settled at the cold fill level, I made sure the rad bleed pipe was clear before I did this, it is acctually mentioned in the RAVE manual I noticed so assumed it may be a regular fault thats easily missed, the hoses to and from the matrix get HOT.

If this looks familiar to anyone, it is on a couple of other Forums so as much as appreciate your input you can save you fingers by not replying, LOL. I have a cooling system nightmare, I am not ruling out the fault of a slipped liner (although the engines only done 34k) but I would like to see if any one elce thinks theres another reason, I have the following problems; - Water loss, some times I worse than others. - High pressure in the cooling hoses. - The bottom of the rad is stone cold, feeling the rad when it's upto temp it gets progresively colder as I work my way down and if I flush it through with a hose it seem to have plenty of flow and I have changed the thermostat. - And possably totaly unrelated but the interior heaters give out no heat untill I am moving. - I have not as yet pressure tested the cylinders. But been told that this will not prove anything, although I thought it would at least prove there is no gasses escaping from any of the pots. - I have no power loss Thanks in advance for any help. I am planning on removing the Rad at the weekend because I have had a couple of people suggest that the fault lies there.