RangeyRover

Always thought that an arduino based solution would come for car wiring. Closest I can find is the controllino https://shop.controllino.biz/controllino-mega.html Which might serve if on a budget.

Check this out on pirate for lt230 strength.http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/land-rover/1626818-i-blew-up-my-lt-230-koh-took-me-out.html#/forumsite/21027/topics/1626818?page=1

Hi Simon, Some of the work has already been done with this. https://github.com/magister54/opengauge Might be useful to Fork, as development appears to have slowed. RR

Hi Simon, Following with interest. This guy is making a lot of headway interfacing LS1 canbus with BMW canbus. He also interfaced to a D2 at one point. http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1887229-E46-Can-bus-project Commoditising the hardware to do this is, is a real opportunity to my mind. Heaps of Petrol D2 crying out for a re engine in the states and Oz. RR

I agree. What i meant was that an arduino or similar can translate from the engine sensor to what the cluster needs. Simulating it first on the bench would make life easier developing it tho. Having the arduino simulate the CAN stuff at the same time would be cool too.

This from the workshop manual p356. Knew I'd read it somewhere. No reason this can't be emulated. To my mind you need to be on the auto can bus and on the connection from BCU to ECU (Security only?) as well as from ECU to instrument Cluster, Can Bus info from p357. Might need to translate messages to ECU intended for EAT. That could be hard. But thats only diagnostics. Emulation required if the ECU is taken off the CAN bus tho.

I've been monitoring this thread for a long time. CAN BUS for LS1 This kind of CAN bus conversion is not new. He actually talks about listening to his D2 K line in the thread, but it's slow An arduino can emulate the PWM signal for the temp guage. The PWM details are in the electrical library I think. Was thinking about hooking an LS engine into the D2 using this method. Vapour build right now. RR

Hi Fridge, I agree MS is usually better but for the OP's question, changes can be done to accomodate the 4.6. the links for the maps combine LR and TVR BINS, and the people who use them seem to have no issues. If price is your measure for budget EFI that can be tuned, still some life in the 14CUX http://www.stevesprint.com/remap-14cux/bins Comparisons made between LR and TVR maps, not much difference. I'd personally prefer the MS so that the ignition is taken care of too, and made waterproof, but cost might push me back the other way.

14CUX gear can now be reprogrammed by a competent DIY type. http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=9&t=1325176&mid=0&i=0&nmt=Instructions+to+change+fuel+maps+on+14CUX+Griffith%2C+Chimaera&mid=0 http://www.stevesprint.com/remap-14cux The griffith maps were for 5.0 anyway I think

Reckon it does! Thanks Mate Hows the remains of me rangie going on?

HI Folks, Need a part number for the bulkhead grommet for heater hoses STC3917. Bit marked in red circle on the photo. Tried the usual sources but cant find it. Had to destroy mine to get my heater working again. Thanks RR

To add to the debate. Had one in a 1990 RRC and eventually got chain slip under extreme load. Was fab till then in a trial vehicle in UK. Would have another in UK. Now have lockable lt230 in disco 2 with traction control. No way would I want a BW in Oz. Not in WA. LT 230 for me.

Calling Dan.... I bought but never fitted a set converted by Dan, dirtydiesel on here. Has been done, requires front diff flipping on older g axles. I would also say that with the price of Ashcroft diff sets now, I probably wouldn't bother. Front cv will eventually go by all accounts, but only with big tyres and a heavy right foot.

In order for the 14 cux to open the stepper for more air, you would probably have to mess with the rpm input off the coils. The mechanical solution on a 14 cux is going to be much simpler.

Mine did that on a road vehicle and threw the serp belt. Mine was the idler pulley. I changed it with a ford metal one from a falcon. My theory is the plastic ones give no warning because they flex till complete failure. The bearing expansion through heat splitting the wheel. Like you, I'm concerned about it when remote. I carry a falcon idler cos I reckon it will work on the tensioner.