Scotts90

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Everything posted by Scotts90

  1. Whilst crawling towards a set of traffic lights heading through Mauchline I spied a large honeycomb grill and the "RangeRover" bonnet badging edging towards me....too big for an Ewok, too small for a Sport...Velars aren't out yet I thought? 66plate in grey with a black roof, the answer to my "out yet ?" question was answered. Above the front reg plate in a slightly different shade of grey were the words "prototype vehicle" so I assume this could be a pre-release press hack? Either way it looked not too bad all round, nicer than the D5 with its daft offset rear number plate. No pics as the traffic car behind wouldn't have been too happy
  2. When I refurbed er indoors' horse trailer I changed it from phenolic (read "rotten") board flooring to an alloy floor. The pukka Ifor williams stuff is like tongue and groove alloy boards....looked great once done, it was a shame to fit the rubber matting over it. Our new cattle trailers are all chequer plate now, all seam welded with drains and catch tanks. One of the first Ifor flatbeds we had was a chequer bed but the current 17ft has phenolic boarding. It does help its longevity being stored inside though...
  3. Blue wire must be an extra from a previous owner. From memory battery power feeds to the starter motor/alternator then loops around the back of the block with two 4mm2 brown cables to feed into the fuse box and bulkhead loom.
  4. It's mentioned in some depth here.... on page 2 by Zardos.
  5. Handbrake from original wiring was a yellow wire, onto the switch tacked onto the side of the handbrake. You'll have a pair of wires for the diff lock switch (black/blue and black) and another pair for the reverse light (green & green/brown). If it was "standard" wiring there shouldn't be a blue down there. The handbrake wire operates a switched earth, so may be worth checking with a multimeter or test lamp to see if your blue wire has got power....you could of course be highly unscientific and Earth the blue wire and see if your handbrake warning light illuminates! Worst case scenario you'll pop a fuse
  6. Although you ordered the identical parts are they actually the same? A slight change in manufacturer tolerance creating an issue? Was there any indication on the removed parts of the cause of slippage? Did you cover a lot of miles with the previous set up prior to it failing? Any contamination/bluing on the flywheel? Apologies for the questions but if the problem was there prior to exchanging the parts and is still evident after all your above checks what else is there? Did you fit a new clutch fork and/or could it be sticking on the pivot? weird.
  7. Yes, albeit the latest incarnation has the chassis legs extended the full length of the load bed unlike the first longbed versions that stopped a foot short.
  8. Was that an "including VAT" price?? I've been trawling too and a well specc'd pick up is nudging the price for what I paid for my D4! Sure, those that are fortunate enough to reclaim the VAT win here but as a private user they're not as economically viable as you'd expect. Buying the base spec model is probably the intelligent option. But back OT, when the new Defender turns up it will have to be a quantum leap to attract people back from the Amarok/Rodeo and Ranger buyers. These are customers who have splashed usually well north of £30k when choosing and its those people they need to impress...the customers waiting in the wings for the 3+yrs old market are not in their demographic....and certainly not those of us recycling their "historic" productions It's been mentioned time and again that the classic Defender is a love/hate machine; you do one or the other. There are the romantics that love the image that a 90 or a 110 conjures up but the harsh reality of owning,driving and repairing one soon loses its appeal. Those that have moved on won't be easily swayed back from decent build, acceptable economy, unheard of reliability and 21st Century automotive engineering that the aforementioned competitors produce! A mate from Scottish Water just got the Fiat Fullback as a replacement for his van, fully loaded in black and much as I loathe the rebadged L200 that it is this one looked better without all the nasty plastic chrome that Mitsubishi love. JLR need to up their game; big boots to fill.
  9. I have fitted Bilsteins (usually B8) to most of my faster cars throughout the years. Never had an issue.
  10. I have NAS rear quarters on my 90 and utilise the rear side markers, the connections I have for these are the Packard timer items so there may be something in your logic....
  11. You been acquiring VAG parts?? Pretty sure you need a Packard connector...these have the 2 top and side guides. http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_10802.html
  12. That's a weird one...have t seen the cheapest of the cheap do that! I was looking at OME to replace my terrafirmas when they expire.
  13. I have the 200litre Clarke tiger model, fortunately having a large shed I have it inside and I built an adhoc insulated cover out of 100mm celotex board. Very light and easy enough to lift off and gives a fair degree of noise suppression too. For ventilation I stitch drilled a series of vent holes high and low to get some circulation going. My outlet pipe work is a 1" bore hydraulic pipe that connects to a copper pipe system (22mm), this runs around 3 bays (each 4.5m) of the shed; a vertical run to the top purlin then piped with a 150mm fall every 4.5m which at the end of each run is a drain off. By the time the air reaches the triple filter set (I use an airfed mask when spraying) there's very little moisture left, in fact I don't think I've ever seen moisture in the bowl of the first filter. I also have a "boost" available with another 100litre 3hp which connects in through its own filter setup...comes in handy.
  14. No, the later style rear window uses a similar seal to the front so not that easy to pop out.
  15. I've got one of those Landreizeger heater controllers to install to allow some more variation of the fan speed, the 200tdi isn't the slowest at producing heat but some extra quick warmth wouldn't go amiss.
  16. So are you planning to remove the matrix and insert this in lieu or as an extra layer of heat input? The latter would appear to be the way it's utilised in the Honda until the diesel is at temp. On my google searching I found that this is widely used on electric vehicles in combination with a heat pump arrangement (air con in reverse) as you obviously have no engine for a water matrix. I've got a spare heater assembly so might add this to the list of upgrades
  17. Aye, we can have a chinwag sometime.
  18. A throw back from my car audio days and surplus heavy gauge cable I have earths on the gearbox/transfer to chassis, block to chassis, main battery to a convenient pre drilled hole on the out rigger. The block to chassis one also loops back to the battery main earth. Quite possibly overkill but never had any issues with starting
  19. Well you can get PCD adaptors to fit Disco2 wheels to a Vauxhall ....there used to be an Astra coupé with D2 Mondials going about. Back on topic though, I like the chunky look and it's your truck so do what makes you happy and keeps the enthusiasm there. I'm convinced mine will never be finished as there are always little upgrades and tweaks to try. The very essence of a Defender
  20. I stay out in the sticks between Killie and Ayr.....with all these thefts I'm not being too precise on an open forum lol
  21. Is your multiplug numbered? I found the above post too...very interesting stuff. It would appear 4,5,6 & 7 are your grounds, 1,2&3 being the live feeds. Each element gets a 40a relay with so its drawing a fair bit of current....I was slightly concerned at the Honda guy only using 1mm2 for this! Looking at the above pic would appear to be 4mm2? Should be quite a hefty heat output, 1.44kw if drawing 120a at 12v. Following this with interest
  22. More like a fork lift kit....
  23. Haha must be an Ayrshire thing...I went one step further
  24. Disconnecting the front prop will make no difference as the wheels need to rotate on the bearings regardless of being driven or not. The running with one prop is fine as a "get me home" (if not far) but not ideal for running about with it off and the diff lock engaged....I'd rather knacker a hub bearing than a transfer box.
  25. Are you putting a new "end" panel on the seatbox ? I renewed mine as they were corroded but can't remember if it was part of the battery box kit.... There are three bolts that go down through the side panel and the return flange of the battery box and through the sill so you may not even need to remove your rockslider, chances are the bolts will shear off anyway! As for removing the seat rail then yes as you need access to all the existing rivets to drill them out; it just makes it easier. The top filler panel at the door end on mine had the seat runner bolted through it so had to come off but it had the earlier two bolt style runners. The captive nuts available for the runners so you just need to rivet new ones in after cutting off the old bolt heads. The lid bracket needs to come off too. Your earths can be consolidated, I'd be earthing on the battery though with it being there. If you scroll up and look at my old and new side by side you can see the fresh drilled rivets its in the correct orientation as if your looking in the door so that should give you an idea of where and what needs drilled. bolts are m8x25, captive nut is AWR4731