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m&mv80

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  1. I had one on the back of my 90 and I can't fault it at all, it was smaller than 11mm though, think it was 9 or 10mm, great value for money and great service, I had one of his winches as well and the same goes for that, don't think you will be disappointed, I had a 11mm bowrope on the front and would have happily replaced with one of these had the need arisen. Hope that helps
  2. try this link http://www.indexmarine.co.uk/pages/wtrprfconns1.htm#usb it looks like the one in your first post but doesnt say its an adaptor
  3. why dont you get one of these self locking ones, much better than the ones with the spring clips and safer to as there is no way the strop can come out
  4. my old discovery head looked the same as that when i changed the head gasket (it was blowing at the back like they do), had no choice but to fit it back on at the time as needed to use it, my thoughts were that it wasnt causing a problem before i took it off so should be ok to put it back on again, i drove it for another year without fail and then i sold it but i believe it still driving now, also in some of the workshop manuals ive seen (not landrover 200tdi) it shows that certain cracks in those areas are ok, depends on there direction and size if i recall corectly, why was the head removed from its origional eng? if you had no other option it would be worth a try but i woulnt pay hardly anything for it or you could have it tested but to be honest if your able to your prob better off waiting and getting a good one
  5. my understanding is that a shaft with single joints on each end must run with the flanges parallel with each other and a double cardon shaft must be used when they are not, therefore as soon as you lift a landrover you are altering the angle of the front diff (nose pointing up) and should change to a double cardon shaft to allow for this. in practice it seems there is a bit of lee way in this theory and in many cases you can run a lift of a couple of inches and get away with it, having said all of that it does seem to affect some cars and not others though, ive got a two inch lift and fitted a double cardon shaft even though i didnt have any vibrations or noises but i just felt it was the right thing to do, also maybe std props would wear faster when being run at greater/unparallel angles??? have you run the car with the front prop removed? did the noise dissappear? HTH martin
  6. im looking into replacing my pto pump with an engine/crankshaft driven one, i am happy with the speed and performance as it is but would like the ability to drive assist, does anyone know what size pump i should be looking for, is it just a case of sizing it the same as my pto one (35cc i believe) or is there an advantage of a bigger or smaller one to match (read as 'get closer to') the wheel speed, im worried of having to smaller pump and having to rev the engine to get the speed of the pump up but have the wheels spinning way to fast, or having a pump thats to big and if i do put to many revs on then have to much flow from the pump, also any good ideas on how to run the pump off the front of the engine would be good, there is not much room in front of the v8, the only way i can see is a toothed belt but any other ideas would be welcomed cheers martin
  7. sounds like it was a good event, i was hoping to come and watch as it was local but i couldnt make it, any more pics anyone????
  8. agreed, i think the only way is to either completley encase the belt in some sort of dirt/waterproof housing, this would then mean you could poss use v belts so you dont need such i tight tolerence on the alignment, or use a mechanical link rather than a belt. i have the same problem on my own truck, is there anything out there that you could use to send the drive through 90 degrees, you could then come off the front pulley and then through 90 degrees giving you more room, i was also thinking about the possibility of trying to mod a pto take off for a pto(shaft) winch, this would include the clutch and bring you to the side of the eng where you would able to attatch the pump, i havent checked measurements so not sure if it would be possible.
  9. i think the problem is when you put water and mud into the equation
  10. yeah i know well you have both confirmed my thoughts about the 10 spline and its definatley the origional axle i know that much, i guess ill have to have a look then to be 100% sure, might just wait till it breaks so i dont have to do the job twice. thanks for your help gents cheers martin
  11. as per title, is my front axle 10 or 24 spline? its a factory v8 90 csw 1988, the rear had a 4 pin diff and 24 spline shafts, just wondering whats in the front? any ideas anyone??? cheers martin
  12. mines cracked to so if the price is right i would be interested
  13. exactly, i can see how relieving stress on the chassis bushes is a good idea but im not so sure bending a std radius arm is the best way to go about it
  14. anyone know how he bends them? i guess heat them up first then bend to required angle, if so does this affect there strength?
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