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About petrolhead63

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  1. Some years ago I replaced the plastic cup that locates the steel ball the gear lever operates on the selectors on our TD5 manual, well I lost 1st and 2nd the other day and today took the top off the gearbox to see the cup has worn right off on the top and the steel ball/clip were rattling about! Great I thought, quite a simple fix, then managed to snap off my bit in the grub screw.....poor bit I suspect but whatever I am a bit stuffed now, can't get it out so grub screw still in place. I managed to winkle out the plastic cup from below and the clip/ball from above. I fear even with rags stuffed in to catch mishaps I dod not have room to insert and press in the assembly made up with a new cup/spring in situ from underneath with my fingers so a problem. If I cant the casting on the selector rod must be taken off to work on bench and the grub screw has a snapped of bit jammed in it so is a permanent fixture! I think again stuffing greasy rags around to catch swarf I could cut the carrier part off the linkage rod using a die grinder, I think! Has anyone done the job in situ or removed the carrier for the cup in this way. I would need to source a new carrier for the cup/steel ball too...........somebody must have a duff gearbox they can take it out of? Thought most welcome...truck stuffed until its done and then its head gasket ;0(
  2. Great thanks, do you know if I can test the sensor in any other way other than substitution? As said, constantly says temperature on inlet is too high after each reset so I suspect it may be duff. Thanks
  3. Truck is running great after all the work, new boost gauge is recording 17 maybe 18psi boost which may be high but no ill effects and hawkeye not saying it has over boosted either. However, after clearing all codes after a short run the same fault code always comes up, 3016 air inlet temp hi. I do not think the air inlet temperature is high, it runs fine. Is the sensor part of the one on the air inlet manifold, do they go duff or need a clean? Truck has no EGR by the way...removed years ago and better for it! but always have code the EGR has been stuck open.
  4. Ah, yes sorry Disco 2 TD5. The control "thingy" is actually I think a pressure modulator turbo control, Disco's have them the defender does not for some reason. I tried the match stick and still flickered but better, so decided to gradually crimp the copper pipe end until it settled down nicely...had it working by bending back a kink on the plastic pipe and wrapping a cable tie on to hold it. It slipped but proved it would work. I seem to be getting about 17psi max boost which seems a little high but no ill effect so best left alone I suspect!
  5. Having done various jobs the truck is going really well. I have also fitted a boost gauge whilst at it but the needle flutters wildly to the stop when working hard on the throttle/turbo. If I gently build up I can get it to read nicely. It is taken off the little pipe running from the intercooler hose to the electric vacuum control thingy! I have the supplied plastic hose at the dashboard end and from the Tee piece up to near the ABS pump but then copper brake pipe along the bulkhead...all looks very tidy Does anybody have any tips as to how to dampen the motorbike carb balance gauges have little restrictors on the pipes to stop flutter...Can I buy them and does that do the job?
  6. Thanks for your concern...I find the dremel itself a nice little thing...but rarely use it, the tools are not up to anything but working on toys I feel......I used the demel this time to grind the stud carefully from inside the hole I drilled but of course the stone fell off the tool and I had to get that out the hole too then! haha
  7. whilst doing the exhaust manifold I have been giving the truck a birthday ;0) The wastegate I thought was a bit sticky/could jam so have worked it until it is nice an loose. The actuator unit seems to have a slightly bent this normal? Is there any way I can check it is ok Finally, was going to pop on a boost gauge I have, is this best Tee'd into the little hose which comes off the intercooler pipe to the modulator or into the hose near the actuator on the turbo?
  8. done new stud was ok in thread but I felt a bit chewed so used an 8mm thread repair anyway which should be stronger.
  9. I'm glad I am thinking the same....if I mess the hole up trying to clear the remains I was going to helicoil repair for 8mm or go larger. The manifold has plenty of space for a larger stud.
  10. well, no TIG and had started before reading the post. I tried an extractor but having snapped one in the past I realised it was not going to budge so gave up. I have now drilled right through the stud to 5mm from memory...had hoped to peel the remains away from the thread which has worked before but so far not happening. The hole of course has gone very slightly off centre. Its getting a little worrying, I do have thread repairs so could overdrill if required and use an insert.
  11. yes TD5, rear top one has snapped flush with head due to warped manifold. So I must drill it and try a stud extractor first. The other studs so far have been coming out...done four, so with luck maybe this one will budge!
  12. Doing the warped manifold at last seeing as its off road with corroded coolant pipe. All studs looked good.....but have now concluded one at least has sheared but not dropped out. It looks sheared in line with cylinder head face. Has anyone had experience of extracting the remains, is it likely to be seized in making it a drill job? and hard to get at too.
  13. Thanks, its off.....could not lift it enough to pull back clear of axle even with big jack. I dropped steering damper and steering rod which took 5 mins and also had to lift chassis a little to clear it forward.
  14. I got a face full of coolant today when I diagnosed the coolant rail pipe as clapped putting my screwdriver through it ? any tips replacing? Also the plastic under engine guard.....all undone, clearly does not slide out without removal of parts. Can anybody enlighten me as to what I can get away with. I'm temped to saw it in two and refit making joining plates to make future work easier! it seems daft.
  15. perfect advice thanks, having looked our 2000 TD5 has no very happy there! I will give the noisy centre box removal a miss...I am happy with noise on the right cars I play with but this a truck! why kid myself I tend agree.the manifold is more likely the whistle.........if not only because it will be the harder job to fix! but I will replace the downpipe first to eliminate that. My mot man who is a landy chap too says he has known flexi's make a whistle sometimes if it is just a small split in the corrugated inner part. Thanks